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    Point me at the Right Design

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    Saxon Violence
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    Point me at the Right Design

    Post by Saxon Violence on Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:34 am

    Friends,

    I want to make a Small Relatively Light (To Carry) Crossbow.

    Crossbows aren't legal for Deer or Larger Game around here. It would be:

    A.} For Small Game;

    And;

    B.} Deer in some Hypothetical Emergency...

    {But I'm content with the Idea that Deer may be at its very upper limit...}

    I've never used a Crossbow. I was quite Content with a 45 Pound Longbow; and in Retrospect, I probably should have stuck to my Sweeter-Shooting 35 Pound Bow.

    Nonetheless, it would be nice to get Crossbow Performance comparable, to O say a 50 Pound Bow—if possible.

    And I'd like for my Crossbow to be easily to Assemble and Disassemble...

    And hopefully not too complex to build.

    Is there a Design like that?

    (I am willing to drop the Power Requirement Drastically. What Draw Weight would a Crossbow with a reasonable Draw length have to be equivalent in range and power to a 30; 40; or 50 Pound draw Bow...

    Real Bows !!!##$&*^^!!! Compound "Bows"}

    Drop the "Simplicity" next...

    Really do like "Light" and "Easily Disassembled".

    Thank You.




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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by Todd the archer on Thu Aug 15, 2013 2:55 pm

    Are you thinking medieval style or modern?

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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by kenh on Thu Aug 15, 2013 3:07 pm

    Todd's question is the first real answer we need to really help you.

    For 50 lb longish bow equivalent you'll want a crossbow of 150-200 lb draw.

    For simplicity and ease of construction, Skane-type pinlock action is hard to beat.  You can combine ancient and modern by making the prod from something like fiberglass tension bar for chainlink fence, as I did here: 
    http://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t945-loose-laminate-pinlock-build?highlight=pinlock

    This has certainly proved effective against local-garbage-can raiding raccoons, and with good shot placement at my usual sub-50 yard desired deer range I would not hesitate to use this bow with the right broadhead bolt.
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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by Stonedog on Thu Aug 15, 2013 4:47 pm

    A crossbow is generally 1/3 as efficient as a long bow.

    Meaning a 210# draw prod will be as efficient as a 70# longbow.
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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by kenh on Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:52 pm

    Ah!  One-third.  I stand corrected.
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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by Todd the archer on Thu Aug 15, 2013 6:22 pm

    For comparison I like to take draw weight multiplied by power stroke for a value. For example 50 pound longbow with 20" power stroke equals a value of 1000 which would be comparable to a 125 pound crossbow with a 8" power stroke.

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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by kenh on Fri Aug 16, 2013 5:48 am

    Nice Todd.  That yields an easy to understand comparison between bows of different types, like long- and cross-; and also a comparison within a type.  My 250 lb fiberglass tension bar prod with a 12" powerstroke versus, say, an Alchem 250 lb prod with an 6" stroke.
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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by hullutiedemies on Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:08 am

    Saxon Violence wrote:
    Really do like "Light" and "Easily Disassembled".
    Do you need to dissassemble it ?
    Fix prod to tiller with hinge so they can be folded parallel and fit nicely to quivier, fully assembled and ready.

    Been there . Done that.
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    Re: Point me at the Right Design

    Post by kenh on Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:55 am

    If you use one of the 120-150# fiberglass 'replacement prods' easily found on Ebay, you could use the commercial crossbow idea of a top slot with a screw and pressure pad from the front of the tiller for easy assembly/disassembly.  

    Use a piece of Big Box Store Oak 1x2 with wounded edges for a simple stick tiller, and a Pinlock action for simplicity.  Or glue up two pieces of 1/2" thick oak with a piece of 1/8" thin stock offset to make the bolt track, and still use a pinlock.

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