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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

» Crossbow Stock
by kenh Tue Oct 31, 2023 6:19 am

» Colletiere a Charavines continuing experiment
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Oct 07, 2023 5:36 am

» Cocking - how
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» Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin
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» Arab Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Apr 25, 2023 7:57 am

» prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone?
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Mar 20, 2023 5:54 am

» flexible string
by jasper1978 Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:25 am

» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Mar 19, 2023 7:44 am

» jens sensfelder
by jasper1978 Wed Mar 08, 2023 11:58 pm

» 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high.
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Mar 05, 2023 2:53 pm

» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:14 pm

» Digitar prodsc
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:42 pm

» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm

» Wood Prods
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm

» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:54 am

» Simplified Löffelhotz speedloader
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 09, 2022 4:05 pm

» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am

» Josef alm in English
by Juniper Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:22 am

» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm

» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am

» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm


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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:44 pm

    First topic message reminder :

    Return to early crossbow around XIV th,on Mac's trail. I love the design and the efficiency of those military crossbow they where light, powerful, rough , but very elegant and made to serve a soldier in harsh condition. Tiller:cherry wood prod:yew,nut and decoration:delrin, metal parts forged (Sure Mac is a lot better for this)

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    Post by Gnome Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:00 pm

    Jeep, I really like that tiller. I've just started studying making wooden bow staves, I'm interested to see how your prod holds up over time- will it continue to take a set and become a lighter pull, for instance. It looks fairly raw in these images, have you done or will you do anything to seal or protect it from the elements?
    As for the Delrin, I'm a big fan of the stuff myself, I just wish it could be easily had in more colors! I prefer black to white, but it would be nice if brown or cream color were available in sheets. So I don't object to the material, just the bright white detracts a bit from an otherwise handsome work.
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Sep 20, 2014 6:04 am

    You can dirty up delrin to take the edge off the colour. When I split the horn nut on my big bow I switched to delrin. after a month or so of use, it matches the camel bone I used.
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    Post by jeep Sat Sep 20, 2014 7:34 am

    Hi Gnome, I got this prod for quite a long time (4 years for the wood before to shape as bow) I used it for a previous "skane"type crossbow . Time a go I let it stringed to give a light de-flex shape, since I put the string only for shooting. I always been surprised by this prod: efficiency, power lightness.Is so far one of the nicest to shoot of all my crossbow. Yew is very surprising, from the same piece  I cut a second prod and with the same measurements and draw length it exploded sending splinters all around the place!
    I will send the delrin with light sending paper and then rub with wax to give a very very light brown colour. I am waiting for a nice piece of leather to sew and cover (protect) all the the prod before to adorn. I am  thinking adding a bamboo slat on the belly to get some more poundage but I am not sure of the benefit .Is anybody try and find is a good idea? other solution and probably the best would be sticking Tendons on the back of the bow but drying time is so long..The bad side is I will have to cut the nice bridle and everybody know it is a pain on the ass to do a good one . Done redone is the bowyer's destiny !!!
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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:00 pm

    Here is my cord and pulley spanning system . I am surprised of the efficiency and the very quick reloading time needed.When you are used to it ,you can easily shoot 6 or seven bolt a minute! Enough to kill the legend of a dramatic slow time needed to reload. If you add accuracy and power this was a very deadly weapon.
    Now I agree whit Todd,it is bit awkward! On mine the rope have to be shorter because the draw length is 20cm and the system was design for around the usual 14cm for a steel prod. I actually use a military belt because  my leather one don't withstand the pressure!! 
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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:01 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:03 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:04 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:05 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:10 pm

    I like this way to span, but it is not very convenient when you are moving and you have to stand up ! So I am starting  a goat foot lever.
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    Post by phuphuphnik Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:53 pm

    I like the stack of Chinese bows under the table. Smile Why did you start with round stock, just handy, or another reason? I ask because sometimes it makes sense to start with one shape even if most of your finished work isn't that shape.
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    Post by hullutiedemies Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:32 am

    jeep wrote: I am waiting for a nice piece of leather to sew and cover (protect) all the the prod before to adorn. I am  thinking adding a bamboo slat on the belly to get some more poundage but I am not sure of the benefit .Is anybody try and find is a good idea?

    You mean loose laminate ?
    It might cause problems with that leather cover.
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    Post by kenh Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:38 pm

    I agree with Nerd.  A loose laminate inside a leather cover may not be such a good idea.  They are usually tied/lashed to the other laminations.  In my avatar pic you'll see black shrink tubing which is doing the same thing.  The laminations need to slide against each other a bit.
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    Post by jeep Thu Oct 02, 2014 6:47 am

    The stock is more rounded square then round. I choose this shape referring to the few image or painting I have seen.Beside I found it elegant and the tiller is very light this way.I love narrow oval tiller also but is a later design, mostly used with composite bow.
    I've tried leather cover over laminate prod on a previous crossbow I had not any problem with it. But finally  I wont put extra slats on this one ,it is strong enough. I find new peace of yew for  new prod, but this time I will back it with sinew.Will see the result within six month!!
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    Post by jds6 Thu Oct 02, 2014 3:32 pm

    Greetings:
    I am also a big fan of the slim,longer and lighter military bows. Very nice work, indeed.
    What is the width of the tiller at it's widest point. Hard to tell from the pics.
    Once again nice job

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    Post by jeep Sat Oct 04, 2014 4:35 am

    Here measurements:
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