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5 posters

    Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows?

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    The Lone Lemming
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    Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows? Empty Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows?

    Post by The Lone Lemming Sun Apr 26, 2015 6:24 pm

    Hi there all.  I am looking for info on typical poundage ranges for 15th and 16th century field (rather than siege) crossbows, and more specifically, a cut-off range for the use of complex mechanical assisted spanning (rather than simple, i.e. goat's foot or belt hooks).

    Right now, have arrived at around 380#-400# @ 11.5" as the top-end for what would be spannable with a GF or belt hooks.  Am I pretty close, or way off?

    Much obliged for the info.
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    phuphuphnik
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    Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows? Empty Re: Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows?

    Post by phuphuphnik Sun Apr 26, 2015 6:50 pm

    I am in the process of making a spanning device for my 250# 11" draw bow. It is a bugger. While I believe that the 400# bows could be spanned with a belt, it was by burlyer men than I. I will be using a belt with a pulley, to get the felt weight down to about 150#. I can almost get it with a goat's foot, but I didn't make it long enough.

    Try this:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_ovVTHpgLg
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    Rizzar
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    Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows? Empty Re: Historical prod weights for 15th-16th Century Field Crossbows?

    Post by Rizzar Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:11 pm

    Hey and welcome!

    When considering higher forces in later centuries remember draw length reduced a lot.

    Leverage/transmission is very important, which is rather difficult to master with long drawing distances.

    If you are at your personal limit to use a normal sized GF (though really long ones could handle a lot of force) consider this to be a good point to improve either to belt/pulley or cranequin/windlass.

    Cranequin/Windlass are not designed to do high draw lengths either.

    Greetings Rizzar
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    c sitas
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    Post by c sitas Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:28 am

    Hello Rizzar; I have played around with what I would call a block and tackle winch. Seems by blocking you can get quite a length for pull, and also ease of pull. I have my own homemade with a 17" draw lenght.
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    Post by The Lone Lemming Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:31 pm

    Phu, thanks for the pointers!  The video was quite interesting.  Are there any plans for creating that system?
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    phuphuphnik
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    Post by phuphuphnik Fri May 01, 2015 2:40 pm

    I just have to fire up the forge to punch the axle holes and I'll have a belt spanning jig. I made a goat's foot lever, but it is too short. I'll make another soon. Turns out with the right jig they are easy to make, getting both ends to be the same shape and smooth is the learning curve part. I made one master end, that I use as a template when hammering the taper. I could saw it out, but it looks much better being all forged. A larger anvil would help too.
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    Post by c sitas Fri May 01, 2015 3:40 pm

    Hey phuphuphnik; you could cheat. Saw it out , and heat it up just put you dents all over,he,he.It would be so real looking you couldn't even tell.
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    Post by Armbrustier Sun May 03, 2015 7:24 am

    Just remember guys, that the anchoring method at the end of the crossbow tiller that Tod uses in the video for his belt and pulley system seems to be something that he has created himself, I have at least never seen that in any illustrations.

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