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    Socket rienforcement discussion

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    Armymedic.2
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    Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Armymedic.2 on Sat Aug 08, 2015 6:43 am

     Let's bring some more life into the section

    I see many bows with reinforced nut sockets.  And many without.  I imagine there is a weight limit and wood characteristics consideration cutoff for doing it or not.   

    What is yours and why?
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Armbrustier on Sun Aug 09, 2015 2:03 am

    I don't know what crossbows that you have seen, and mean here, historical or newly builts, but you can say that ALL historical crossbows had a reinforcement piece in front of the nut, and some also behind the nut.


    Last edited by Armbrustier on Mon Aug 10, 2015 1:19 am; edited 1 time in total

    Armymedic.2
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Armymedic.2 on Sun Aug 09, 2015 5:26 pm

    Wow, if that is right the. The work is simply too good to tell.  In the first coulle of pages on this board i see bows i think are not rienforced........
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Armbrustier on Mon Aug 10, 2015 2:48 am

    Can give me some links, so that I can see what you mean?
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by OrienM on Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:48 am

    Mine is non-reinforced (http://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t1422-new-medieval-finished) and seems to be working fine. Honestly I've only made a couple xbows, so I can't say whether it's a fabulous idea, or even if it will hold up over the life of the weapon. (Part of me is expecting it to tear out catastrophically at some point...crossing my fingers here.)

    As was said above, the vast majority of historic bows (indeed, pretty much all that I looked at, excepting a few lightweight pin-locks) were reinforced, which tells me it's probably fairly necessary. If I make another, I'll probably reinforce, especially if I can get the draw weight up over 200#.

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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Armymedic.2 on Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:31 pm

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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by hullutiedemies on Tue Aug 11, 2015 6:23 am

    This is the nut socket of crossbow in Finnish national museum


    Antler with brass plate in front.

    More pictures in Finnish bowforum:
    http://perinnejousi.utbl.net/keskustelu/viewtopic.php?t=4361
    (somebody here is probably interested )
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by MePilot1 on Thu Sep 10, 2015 1:22 pm

    Mine too... but i plan of reinforcing it )  The pressure in mine is on the nut's axle, currently. It works perfect but it's not historically correct
    http://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t1390-my-homemade-flemish-crossbow

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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Armymedic.2 on Thu Sep 10, 2015 7:27 pm

    Ha!  Yours was one that really made me consider going axle only!   I did go traditional though and reinforced with metal
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Gnome on Tue Sep 22, 2015 3:23 pm

    I've only built one roller-nut crossbow where I reinforced the socket, and that one was hardly historic, since I used a block of UHMW plastic. I don't think it's necessary at the draw weights most hobbyists are prone to use, 200 pounds and under, as long as a reasonably hard and durable wood is used for the tiller. If you're building a replica or using a more powerful prod it's definitely a good idea. Remember that if you are using an axle to anchor your release hold/release part, you'll have to reinforce your axle even more than a socket since it's so much smaller and subject to the same amount of force- either anchoring it with sturdy metal side plates or making the lock area of your tiller very wide with a correspondingly long axle to spread out the bearing surface.
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    Re: Socket rienforcement discussion

    Post by Lightly on Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:59 pm

    I tend to reinforce any socket in a bow, that has a steel prod. I've seen two bows have a cracked deck just at the socket, one was from misuse, (I saw the person mishandle the bow) the other, I think a weakness in the wood, as that was an aluminum prod. I use antler, but, I am sure one could use a dense hardwood, or even the plastic that Gnome used! It can't hurt, doesn't take much longer, looks great on bows (if made with moose horn, quite pretty) and prevents that darn chipping. Of course, that does go hand in hand with making sure there is some kind of axle in the nut, that axle really helps prevent the nut from oscillating, and chipping the edge of the socket. I generally use a metal pin for that axle. Or, a Nussfaden, for the Finn bows. That being the strings that go thru the nut, and lockplates and around the bottom of the bow. my .02!

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