This is the start of the nut. I still need to cut in a string groove and trim down the piece that will hold the trigger. The trigger will be formed from 3/8 Ø round bar. I'll probably purchase the prod somewhere. Maybe a 120# or lower if I can find it since this will not have a safety. Be gentle guys it's my first project.
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very very begining of a medeival crossbow
edstuff- Tinkerer
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This is the start of the nut. I still need to cut in a string groove and trim down the piece that will hold the trigger. The trigger will be formed from 3/8 Ø round bar. I'll probably purchase the prod somewhere. Maybe a 120# or lower if I can find it since this will not have a safety. Be gentle guys it's my first project.
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edstuff- Tinkerer
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I've got an idea of the design of it. It's in the attached sketch.
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If you look about half way down this page
https://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t189p15-roller-nut-material?highlight=roller+nut
you'll see a walnut roller nut. Notice that the nut is not hollowed completely between the edges. There is a notch for the tickler end, reinforced by the brass plate, plus the upper notch for the string and bolt.
The roller nut as you've built it does not have any way to catch and hold the end of the tickler.
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The round bar whelded to the washers is intended to be the trigger notch/stop once you cut it down to the radius? Would have been better to use a flat surface at the trigger instead of a round one.
Personnally I must admit I was not confident at the first time I saw your pics, but there is some interesting concept in it.
I do have concerns about the thickness of the washers. To accomodate the string they should be soft rounded to prevent damage to it, so ensure it is done really good with those narrow things. Anyway thicker ones would be better for the string, but worse for the weight.
I think -as long as I am not totally confused right now- , your nut can benefit from a relatively low rotating mass due to its non solid design.
But to be clear, that kind of nut is nowhere near medieval as pointed out in your headline...
I´d suggest to build a nut the standard way many of the threads around show.
Rizzar
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You will find most nuts do not have an axle but rotate in a close fitting socket, they can have a length of string or a small metal pin through the center to keep them from falling out when rotated. The flat area behind the hooks which allows the string to sit flat on the deck will allow them to fall out.
My .02 worth.
Jim
Last edited by Jim McCoin on Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:50 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling)
edstuff- Tinkerer
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Does that make sense or should I draft it?
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All this information is on the internet, in fact everything you need is on the internet, from binding the prod to the tiller to using bone on the flight deck
Jim
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Everything Kenh said is right on.
Jim
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I have a bit of 1.5" delrin I would be willing to send you a 1" hunk of the stuff, enough for a nut. You;ll have to face it, but I can drill a hole down the centre.
chriso
Last edited by phuphuphnik on Wed Dec 24, 2014 5:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Most people I have met don't just build one crossbow, so if you buy the Forstner bit you'll build more than one
Jim
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edstuff wrote:Is that a wood drill bit? I don't know much about carpentry.
Hey Edstuff,
I'm also a welder/fabricator and would be more than happy to answer welding and fabrication questions. You must realize there are rules you must follow if you want a crossbow that shoots flat and straight.
Jim