I have limited time to work on my build and hope to save some time removing the bulk of the wood when shaping the tiller. Would a reciprocating work well as my budget wont stretch to a band saw. Also what do people use to do the finer shaping should I invest in a spoke shave or draw knife?
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+4
c sitas
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fester
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Reciprocating Saw?
fester- Fresh Blood
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- Post n°1
Reciprocating Saw?
kenh- Crossbow Junkie
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- Post n°2
Re: Reciprocating Saw?
Reciprocating saw -- you mean a "saber saw"? I use one of those for all kinds of projects. The only limitation is how deep the blades will cut. They do well on 2x6 for example, but I don't think they will cut a 3" thick plank. For hand work I personally like a 4-sided "farrier's rasp" with coarse and medium teeth for bulk wood removal -- I've shaped rifle stocks with on of those. Spoke shaves are for making spoke and other dowel like things. A draw knife doesn't work small, tight areas very well.
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
In my early days at the craft, I used a 'saber saw' to cut out stocks. It works well enough with boards up to about 2 inches thick, though with the blade supported only at the top, sometimes the cuts aren't quite square (up and down) you'll have to take that into account.
As for shaping, I used to buy 'sureform' tools, their curved one-handed one worked pretty well, but at a certain point, you'll want to go over to something like a four in hand rasp. Nowadays I do most of my shaping with flat and convex spokeshaves, but in fact, you can do a lot of the rough work with a really sharp draw-knife. Geezer
As for shaping, I used to buy 'sureform' tools, their curved one-handed one worked pretty well, but at a certain point, you'll want to go over to something like a four in hand rasp. Nowadays I do most of my shaping with flat and convex spokeshaves, but in fact, you can do a lot of the rough work with a really sharp draw-knife. Geezer
c sitas- Crossbow Junkie
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
Just a little addition here .
if you use a receprosaw, you can buy blades almost any length, all the way three inches to 12 inches.Much heavier saw than a saber saw. Both can be had with a variable speed.Price for the longer blades is of coarse more money . Also the long reach makes them wander a little. Also the better blades can be had in wood and metal cutting. One company makes one they call the "torch", will cutt 1/4" metal like butter, as long as you lube it.
if you use a receprosaw, you can buy blades almost any length, all the way three inches to 12 inches.Much heavier saw than a saber saw. Both can be had with a variable speed.Price for the longer blades is of coarse more money . Also the long reach makes them wander a little. Also the better blades can be had in wood and metal cutting. One company makes one they call the "torch", will cutt 1/4" metal like butter, as long as you lube it.
fester- Fresh Blood
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
Does anyone just work with hand tools?
c sitas- Crossbow Junkie
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
Sure, there are a lot of things best done by hand . Cheaper and less mistakes sometimes. Also gives you more time to think while the blisters are forming.
chaz- Crossbow Junkie
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
One might check out the Rockler woodworking tools website for the 1" & 2" microplane rotary shaper. It is best used with a drill press, However, I have used it in a hand held variable speed drill. This does require a certain skill level, patience, and safety awareness to use. It seems to produce more shavings than saw dust. Just a suggestion and seems to be reasonably priced .... worth checking into. More for shaping after the initial cutout.
Chaz
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
I use Japanese saws, chisels, and, hand planes exclusively. A cheap Japanese saw is a great addition to a tool box, but even the cheap HF ones will dig merrily into wood and fingers.
chaz- Crossbow Junkie
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
Be ever mindful of one's fingers
Chaz
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- Post n°10
Re: Reciprocating Saw?
I have to fingers shorter than issued due to a table saw. If you are using a reciprocating saw, try making some templates first. One for the front side that the platen can ride against and another smaller one that hopefully will resist blade deflection.
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Re: Reciprocating Saw?
A Shinto rasp is worth its weight in gold. I don't know why hand planes are out of fashion , a really sharp jack plane is indispensable. I used to use a draw knife and spokeshave but a good big gouge, a Shinto (they're double-sided course cut and fine cut) and a sharp plane will sort out 95 jobs in a hundred. Make friends with your local joinery for the rest...