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    How to make a slurbow?

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    How to make a slurbow? - Page 2 Empty How to make a slurbow?

    Post by banuvatt on Sun Jul 14, 2019 8:44 pm

    First topic message reminder :

    Hi have been looking into making some crossbows that will shoot spherical objects for my friends. In the beginning I was leaning towards bullet crossbows otherwise known as pellet bows. The crossbows that have two pillars and a leather pouch in the middle. But, but once I learned that they can occasionally misfire and shoot backwards if the pouch turns a full 180. I now am considering a slurbow a crossbow with a barrel preferably metal that has one string and shoots spherical objects. I was wondering about a trigger mechanism and any sort of design or plan. That shows the inner works of the crossbow and it's trigger mechanism.
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    Post by banuvatt on Sun Jul 21, 2019 6:33 pm

    The only problem I have with lead is I would like to reuse my ammo. Lead is far softer then steel is also if I miss and can't find the lead it is toxic if I'm not mistaken. I want to use this crossbow for small game and target shooting.
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    Post by septua on Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:14 am

    banuvatt
    The Belgian vertical “popinjay” shooters use 5/8” carefully made lead balls and relatively powerful steel prods. The locks seem to be a variation of clap lock type.
    Try the site below.
    http://www.sintservatius.com/
    I started my bullet bow projects with 3/8” then 1/2” and finally 9/16” steel balls. They are held snugly in a shuttle cone by a stack of four 5/16” flat magnets that are not part of the payload. The combined weight less the string is 24 grams. I do only target shooting at my limited space of less than 20m. A good way to check your group size is to hang a strong but light weight wood panel with bullseye in front of the ammo trap that can swing back when hit so the ball won’t bounce back.
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    Post by banuvatt on Tue Jul 23, 2019 12:08 pm

    Thank you very much for the link it helped somewhat. What I was thinking of doing for a trigger mechanism will be a modified roller nut. A roller nut with a stopper so it doesn't rotate too much and I can reload it simply by having the string push it back into place.
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    Post by c sitas on Tue Jul 23, 2019 5:12 pm

    Septua, your very smart about the ball bouncing back, cause they will , especially a lead ball. They won't when shot with black powder but, a bow doesn't have the power to make the ball penitrate. For instance use the butt end of a oak log as a target and there would be a good chance of getting hit by the ball, say even at 20 yds or so.  Speaking from experience.
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    Post by banuvatt on Tue Jul 23, 2019 6:21 pm

    I imagine a slurbow would perform around the same as a slingshot. So why not but a curtain behind the target? I think steel has a better chance ricocheting then lead does since it's harder.
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    Post by banuvatt on Tue Jul 23, 2019 7:14 pm

    Where would you get the steel tube for the barrel. I looked at places like home depot the only problem I noticed is that there is this like v that is inside the tube. I think that it is when they welded the tube together during the manufacturing. What would work best for this would probably be a tube that is seamless.
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    Post by phuphuphnik on Tue Jul 23, 2019 11:04 pm

    Howdy. I used the slingshot marbles. Poke through my posts and find making pellet crossbow with the 7th grade. I carved half the barrel in the stock, then swaged a metal channel on the top. I made the swage by taking 2 pices of steel, clamping them together and drilling a 5/8 ish hole between them. Then used a half inch rod to finish the die.
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed Jul 24, 2019 9:33 am

    Okay thank I was thinking of doing either one of these things get a seamless metal tube use a dremel to make the slot for the string. Or ask my friend who has a CNC machine I believe if he could mill out the slot for the string.
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    Post by septua on Wed Jul 24, 2019 11:16 am

    banuvatt
    Be sure to allow space for the bare string to advance forward beyond brace at letoff so it does not contact back of slotted tube.  My string with a shuttle go +1-1/2”.
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed Jul 24, 2019 12:45 pm

    Just to clarify I don't really completely understand. Do you mean allow some space in front of the string when the crossbow is at brace height so when you shoot, the string doesn't hit the front of the slot?
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed Jul 24, 2019 3:04 pm

    Is there any formulas or a rule of thumb of how heavy the ammo should weigh in order to prevent dry fires?
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    Post by c sitas on Thu Jul 25, 2019 7:13 am

    Banuvat, he means like an over travel after the shot is fired.
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Jul 25, 2019 8:44 am

    Okay I think I now know what you're talking about. If I want to use this for small game or pest control how many pounds should it weigh? I was thinking since this is my first one a 50 lb or 80 lb fiberglass prod. Then I would eventually make a slurbow that is 150 lbs. I am sorry that I keep asking this question but I wouldn't ask this many times unless if was important. But what size and or weight steel ball should I use? I want to make sure the ammo that I am using isn't either too light or too heavy for the prod. Is there any formula or rule of thumb that I need to know so when I make a slurbow of different draw weights I know what to use?
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    Post by Wildtech on Thu Jul 25, 2019 3:07 pm

    HI

    Looking under the general rules of Royal Balboogmaatschappij St. Servatius Aalst - who shoots these type crossbows to hit a little wooden bird in competitions

    /"The lead ball (approximately 17 grams)/"

    regards
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Jul 25, 2019 3:53 pm

    Okay thank you. By the way I found this chart useful I hope anyone else here does as well. 
    How to make a slurbow? - Page 2 Ammunition-size-and-weight-chart-png
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Jul 26, 2019 9:46 am

    How far should the barrel extend from the stock? I am thinking that it is somewhat similar to guns, the shorter the barrel is the less time it will have to travel so it will be less accurate. But the longer the barrel is the more accurate it will be but it can get cumbersome at a certain point.
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    Post by c sitas on Fri Jul 26, 2019 12:14 pm

    Reading the post about shooting the balls of 17 grams.  Boy they would have to be tiny. Smallest I know is 32 caliber. They are .315 in diameter and weigh 115 grams.You'd have to go into the buckshots to find something that small. It's no wonder I thought the bows in the vidieo were noisy.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Jul 26, 2019 12:39 pm

    If it was 17 grams, that is around 260 grains it would be 9/16 of an inch in diameter.
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jul 26, 2019 12:42 pm

    Is it possible people are confusing grams with grains?  Grams are much heavier.  Geezer\
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jul 26, 2019 12:46 pm

    So one gram is 15.43 grains.  So 17 grams comes out to @ 155 grains.  A typical 9 mm pistol ball weighs in at about 115 grains.  I would say a 17 gram ball would make a suitable projectile for a lightweight stonebow/bullet bow.  Geezer.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Jul 26, 2019 12:57 pm

    I imagine the prods they used at Popinjays were rather heavy since they had to be loaded with a special type of lever. In Payne Gallwey's book he mentions that the bore of the barrel was 5/8" in diameter. He also states that the bullet was 1/8" smaller in diameter then the bore of the barrel. So the bullet must of been 1/2" in diameter.
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jul 26, 2019 1:49 pm

    Yup, that sounds reasonable.  Geezer.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Jul 26, 2019 2:14 pm

    The idea I had for a trigger mechanism was a roller nut with a stopper to keep it from doing a full rotation so I can reload the slurbow just by pushing back the string. I know that most of the slurbows had a some variation of a clap lock. But I don't think I could do that. Does anyone here have any ideas, suggestions or advice on any other trigger mechanisms? Images, diagrams or plans would be very much appreciated.
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jul 26, 2019 2:21 pm

    The problem with a roller-nut with a stop (yes, I tried that a couple of times) Particularly with stronger bows, it might be smart to make your stop with a built-in spring that would absorb the shock of stopping, and maybe even roll the nut back to start.  Otherwise, there's sufficient inertia in the fast- spinning roller to eventually destroy either the stop or the roller's sear (presumably the nut rolles 90 degrees, then the sear engages a block in the roller-socket to stop it.  This hammers the dung out of either the stop or the sear.  But if the stop was a piece of iron rod, running in a groove, with a coil spring behind it.... that might work.  The ones I tried with a solid stop eventually ate the sear-plate in the nut and in one case, hammered the stop right out of the nut-socket.  Very disappointing, yet the concept has possibilities.  Geezer.
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jul 26, 2019 2:26 pm

    And yes, somewhere I have seen a schematic for an Italian self stopping/resetting roller lock.  Maybe it was in Harmuth's Die Armbrust, maybe Paterson's Survey of European Crossbows.  Anyhow, a thorough search might well turn that up, but as I recall the lock was pretty complex.  There may be much better ways to do it.  Geezer.

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