crossbow stock shape

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 9:16 am

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Post n°1

crossbow stock shape

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 9:16 am

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 9:21 am

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Post n°2

Re: crossbow stock shape

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 9:21 am

I have been thinking of crossbow stock shapes but what had really caught my mind was the shape of a matchlock carbine. The rifle with the number one next to it is what I am talking about. I want to build this later in the future, but I have been already thinking about the design of it. I wanted to have a tickler instead of a trigger because I think it would look cooler.

by Edward donald Mon Jul 29, 2019 5:22 pm

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Post n°3

Re: crossbow stock shape

by Edward donald Mon Jul 29, 2019 5:22 pm

i like no5. its elegant but maybe too close to a shotgun stock for you. medieval crossbows dint have a butt and actually looked very pretty. normally a slight curve

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 5:32 pm

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Post n°4

Re: crossbow stock shape

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 5:32 pm

Yeah they didn't that only came later around the transitional period from bows and crossbows to firearms. It really came around first during the 16th century when crossbows and bows were becoming obsolete. But if you look at this video the crossbow that is being used, the end resembles somewhat of a rifle butt.
https://youtu.be/cxN0FZkYk78

by Gnome Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:26 pm

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Post n°5

Re: crossbow stock shape

by Gnome Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:26 pm

Just keep in mind the fundamental handling difference between a firearm and crossbow- you'll want to provide a substantial bit of stock for your offhand grip to ensure that your fingers don't get anywhere near the string. In that video you can see it pretty far forward, which is how I designed my first few crossbows. Later I came to appreciate holding the weapon much closer to the center of balance, usually right in front of the lock mechanism if you have a shoulder-stock like tiller.
Gnome

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:40 pm

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Post n°6

Re: crossbow stock shape

by banuvatt Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:40 pm

Okay thank you, very much for the advice. Yeah I know what happens when someone's fingers gets in the way of the string it certainly isn't pretty. For the stock for my crossbow I was going to take two 3/4" hardwood boards, then drill two small holes where the nut and the tickler are going to be. Use two nails put them into the holes where the nut and tickler are going to be to pin them into place, so when I cut them with a jig saw I get a perfectly even cut. But I was wondering what should the dimensions of the stock be?

by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jul 30, 2019 1:56 am

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Post n°7

Re: crossbow stock shape

by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jul 30, 2019 1:56 am

you could try a mock-up from polystyrene? Tucking a medieval crossbow under your shoulder might give you a feel for the balance/proportion you want to achieve

by **Geezer** Thu Aug 01, 2019 8:14 pm

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Post n°8

Re: crossbow stock shape

by Geezer Thu Aug 01, 2019 8:14 pm

Many years of looking at period crossbow pics have convinced me there were two primary ways to shoot crossbows: either held alongside the cheek, entirely free of the body, like an arrow drawn to the cheekbone, or, for long-tillered crossbows, laid atop the shoulder. Before @ 1450 crossbow stocks were usually quite narrow. By 1500, many sporting bows had a slightly enlarged butt, with a sloping cheekpiece. by 1650, you see ornate, enlarged butts like those on guns of the same period. By 1700, many crossbows had large 'flask' butts like shotguns and muskets of Their period.
The great advantage of holding a crossbow stock clear of the body, is that you can conveniently drop the but down 'to the pap' for long distance shots, as was done with handbows. Geezer.

by 8fingers Fri Aug 02, 2019 11:05 pm

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Post n°9

Re: crossbow stock shape

by 8fingers Fri Aug 02, 2019 11:05 pm

Might be easier to use boards longer than you plan on using and dowel them together using the extra length. extra pins / dowels could be fitted where the tickler will have to travel. Problem with using a jig saw is, on curves you can get 'barrel cuts', where the blade bows when you make a curve.
Making a template and using a router might give you truer cuts. If you don't have a router, try drawing you out line and cutting a series of kerfs almost to the line, close together, then breaking the wood away. There are some stunts that work well with a table saw but I don't have that skill set yet.

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