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» swiss national museum crossbow LM-6010
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» Roller Nut Size
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» Compound twinbow pistol (posts vs pulleys)
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» Laminating crossbow limbs
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» Info required for old laminated limbs
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» Goats Foot Lever
by Arcuballista Wed Oct 23, 2019 12:47 am

» Jig for grooving bolts for wood fletching
by banuvatt Mon Oct 21, 2019 9:03 pm

» Cranequin drawings
by Crossbowman Sat Oct 19, 2019 8:46 am

» Drilling out the trigger grove?
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» finally started my first composite bow
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» what is nordic/swedish/northern style
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» crossbow 17136, Royal Armoury Collection, Sweden
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Sep 07, 2019 1:26 pm

» notch lock trigger mechanism
by banuvatt Sat Sep 07, 2019 12:55 pm

» how made homemade (reverse) crossbow ?
by ali.j Sat Sep 07, 2019 12:08 am

» Metal clamps for bastard string
by Geezer Thu Aug 29, 2019 11:20 am

» Goats foot leaver design
by Geezer Thu Aug 29, 2019 11:17 am

» mounting sideplates
by Geezer Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:01 pm


    Goats foot leaver design

    tallpine
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    Goats foot leaver design  Empty Goats foot leaver design

    Post by tallpine on Wed Aug 28, 2019 9:59 pm

    Hello guys, this is my first post here but I have been hanging around here for quite some time. With the valuable information gleaned here I have three crossbows under my belt. I am wanting to build a goats foot for my latest build
      I have literally read everything the internet has to offer on goatsfoot leavers and  still not exactly sure how to proceed. I have made a few plywood mockups and the just don't look like they will work. Am I over thinking this? How critical is the radius of the curve on the long arms?  Where is the optum location to put the anchor pin on the tiller?  Are they very forgiving or do they have to be dead on to perform correctly?  Any and all help greatly appreciated.........Dan
    Geezer
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    Post by Geezer on Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:56 am

    Geezer here, concerning gafa cocking levers (real goatsfoot, with pin mounted behind the lock). In my experience, the precise shape/curve of the 'legs' isn't particularly important. Though an optimal curve may give you the best mechanical advantage and smoothest action, there are even some wooden 'gafas'  from Norway which use completely straight legs operating against a heavy wooden plug thru the stock.  Having said that, it looks like most southern/western European bows fitted with gafas (like the Padre Island/Malta bows) have a pin mounted thru the stock @ 2-3 inches (50-75 mm) behind the back edge of the lock socket.  In most cases the pin (about 6-9 mm diameter) is mounted close to the top of the stock, and Through the wrap-around iron lockplates.  Maybe 3/8 inch (9mm) down from the top.  I have seen a few English made bows...very ornate, but in the Spanish style, with the gafa pin mounted near the bottom of the stock... it appears to serve as the axle for the tickler as well.  
    I suppose if you planned everything just right, your gafa would deliver the bowstring precisely into the roller-nut, but in my experience, most gafas will carry the string Over the roller-nut's lugs, well above the top.  But when you let the lever rock forward again, it should deliver the bowstring right into the roller lock.  
    Wippe-type levers, that push the string from stock's fore end will have the string running along the table thru the entire spanning process.  For a Wippe, you'll need to set your roller nut with the lugs down and the back platform of the nut upright.  Pushing the string into the lock should let the roller slip back into place and lock.  But with a Gafa, you'll probably want to set the roller lock, trigger in sear, and let the string deliver behind, then slip forward into place.  I hope that makes some sense..
    It helps greatly if you have very hard steel for your gafa-pin, and make sure the 'legs' are very smooth... a little light lubricant wouldn't hurt.  
    Have fun storming the castle:  Geezer.
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    sydney1942
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    Post by sydney1942 on Thu Aug 29, 2019 11:13 am

    Hi  i m just going through the same thing--1st lever
         A member on the forum sent me a copy  of a Auto Cad  dwg
          which was a good start
           In the  " Book of the crossbow "  there are some good drawings
              that are to scale
         I also make a cardboard copy of the lever and it seemed good
         Sent the cad drw s to a small machine shop and they
          cut them with plasma 
          Just started to clean them up and they look good
          It will be a while as i m also working on my first
             crossbow
          If i can be of some help let me know
            Sydney
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    Post by Geezer on Thu Aug 29, 2019 11:17 am

    Well: damn if I can figure out how to attach this photo.  Drop me an e mail and I'll see if I can attach it to that.  Geezer. 
    iolo@crossbows.net

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