The work day is over...correction -"finally" over.
Before we go over a few points you mention, there is a small article
that can help a bit. Written by our departed Master Crossbow Builder -
Robin Allen...there is no reason to doubt the suggested reading, so give
it a look.
The Crossboman's Den > Building Kid's Crossbow
Gary D wrote:
1-light weight (she is a slight 15 yr old girl - 16 for Quad War)
...So addressing Criteria #1 naturally the answer is make a smaller tiller
and not use a steel lathe. I am thinking a sleek and low profile
crossbow based roughly on Iolo's #1 blank with obvious modifications
perhaps more like a #5...
will be rather central Europen in a darker wood, perhaps a reddish or
pinkinsh cherry with a contrasting table from the roller nut forward. ...
1. Maple is a nice lightweight hardwood widely available at major hardware stores like Homedepot, Lowes(USA). If you look through the stack you can find some nice stuff with a bit of burl that will look great under a couple of coats of linseed-oil or lacquer.
Gary D wrote:
2-light draw weight (as much for her ease and enjoyment as SCA combat rules)
...use a 50lb fiberglass prod, which satisfies criteria #2 (50lbs x 8" draw
=400"lbs which is well within SCA spec - upto 650"lbs) still good
enough for a 20 yard shot.
I think you're getting a little off track here...50lb prod means it "will pull" 50lb at a certain point of draw...not multiply every inch of draw by 50lb.
I have a quick question...are you planing on making a prod or buying one?
Gary D wrote:
3-ergonomically comfortable for her use
...Ok, back behind a computer. Addressing Criteria #3 My daughter is aprox
5'4". she is also quite competent with her ruger 10/22, and has stated
that she would like to hold the crossbow to her shoulder like a rifle
butt. With this in mind I am thinking of incorporating some of the
ruger's dimensions into the piece. This will include a 2 1/2 inch
downward bend at the butt end from the table which is the difference
from the top of the heel to the top of the reciever on the 10/22. Also
approximating the front of the tickler to the front of the trigger guard
to accomodate similar hand placement we are looking at 14 1/2". Also
forehand grip will be 1 7/8" wide between the binding hole and the roler
nut, tapering to 1 1/2" at the "small" of the tiller and 1 1/4" at the
heel. I am thinking I will keep the 1 7/8" width right up to the prods...
Sounds good...try it with some cardboard or as some like to do with insulation foam(visit custom stocks topic for more info) and more importantly make sure the fingers are plenty far from the string path...very dangerous stuff.
By the way...speaking of stock shapes. Lightly from New World Arbalest built one I really liked and perhaps it will appeal to you as well.
Gary D wrote:So question for you folks. From your exxperiences what wuold you recommend for tiller height and width at the prod end? (not the height of the knotch itself)
As far as my opinion goes...50lb isn't a lot and the stock can be 1/2" wide and hold the weight just fine....however 1/2" isn't going to feel well in the hand, so you got to make some measurements with your kid. As for "tiller height"...remember my warning about string clearance(keep the fingers far and safe)...and check out this topic to shine a bit of light on what happens on the end of the stock where the prod is mounted. >>> Tinker's build
...long story short>>>you need to get the prod before
making any decisions regarding the dimensions of the front end of the stock...jumps me back to my question...are you planning on getting your prod, or making one? (I'm just asking because I know 50lb prods are out there for sale, so...
Gary D wrote:5-respectably attractive for the target field (that and she's a 15yr old
girl - not to mention I really dislike the rubber-band-gun style SCA
Well, lets get out the drawing board.
Though I also don't really like the crude ruberband creations ...however... Rubber bands can actually be pretty powerful if applied properly.
And my trigger suggestion will be ...
This guy built a set forward medieval style trigger that I really liked...check it out.
I'll put it up for discussion in the "triggers" topic since the design is far from perfect and needs a bit of work before it's a good trigger.