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    Starting in 3....2.....1........

    juancheco
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    Post by juancheco Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:46 pm

    Now!!!!!!!
    Ok, here I am, cutting wood after drawing the shape that I designed for my first crossbow.....
    Ok, there are some pictures.....
    Ok, I´m listening....comments....anything.....
    One of the pictures shows my first problem.....a knot in the wood.....(don´t worry John, you can do it..... Wink !!!!!!!)
    BTW, I´m very happy for my start, but I don´t know where I´m comming to..... Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy !!!!!
    Greetings for all of you!!!!!!!!

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0211
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    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0316
    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0316
    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0318


    Last edited by Ivo on Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:44 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Correcting images)
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    Post by Ivo Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:56 pm

    Good start man. Smile

    Tell us a bit more about this project, from the pictures I can only tell the shape of the stock and that you are planning on using bow irons.

    I don't think the nut should be a problem, but might be a little tough to drill/bore out the trigger slot ... and my guess you are having some trouble with picking the trigger? (you have both the roll-nut trigger and pin/notch trigger sketched)

    Great job so far...Keep us posted. Smile

    Ivo

    PS: When posting pictures, post the Second code ("Image" code)
    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Img10

    or First code ("Thumbnail" code)...this one loads faster and keeps the posts smaller. What ever is more comfortable for you. Wink

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Img10
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    Post by directdrive8 Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:43 am

    Nice! I am planning a first crossbow of my own. You are ahead of me as I haven't even chosen wood for the stock. Nice looking wood you have there. What type of wood is it, if I may ask? RE. the knot, you could bore it out with a forstner bit and then glue in a plug using the same wood as the stock. I use Titebond III for all my wood work and it is stronger than the wood itself once dry. That might work but I am sure some of the folks who've done this before might have some other suggestions. Keep up the good work and keep us apprised of your progress.
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    Post by juancheco Wed Mar 30, 2011 10:07 am

    Thanks Ivo for both, reply and correcting images!!!!!
    As you can see, I´m working in a carpentry in project and design department, but in my free time, I went down were the machines are!!!!
    This, my first stock, are made in "anchico" wood, which is, by the gods, very hard, almost like "quebracho", this means Axe-breaker in Argentina....
    Anchico is more workable whit hand tools.
    That sketch on which you can see the bow irons, is one of many that I do before start cutting wood....they came from hours and hours of reserching on books and finally on this web site, thanks for exist!!!!!
    I already have a piece of steel for the prod.....notice that I´m using correctly the terminology Starting in 3....2.....1........ 524936 .......
    And about the trigger and nut stuff, I was doing the drawings, (I´ll post it ASAP) but I´m not sure of what kind of release method to use, roll nut usually system, or pin up (or push up pin, or whatever you call it)

    I know that this is my first work, and I know that there will be a lot of proves and errors on it, but still I´m very happy and enthusiast about my "JUAN the Second", that´s what i call this model.....

    Ok fellows, return to walk, appreciate thy help....!!!!!!
    And Ivo, thanks again...!!!!!
    juancheco
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    Post by juancheco Wed Mar 30, 2011 10:19 am

    Drive8!!! Thanks friend!!!!!!!
    I did not see you while I was writing my answer....
    There you can see, that is ANCHICO the wood that I´m using for the stock....a South American tree from the north of Argentina and South of Brazil and Paraguay...
    I tell you when i reach that knot.....
    Greetings for all of you!!!
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    Post by 8fingers Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:44 am

    I was thinking if you were to drill out the knot and cover the patch with a contrasting inlay like nickel silver /German silver, ivory substitute, bone, brass in an interesting shape you could make a flaw into a work of art. Try a black powder catalog for some ideas, materials, pre-shaped inlays.
    I just finished ruining my first try at a stock so I know how hard it can be. Nice work
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    Post by juancheco Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:20 pm

    Hi 8fingers....you give to me an excelent idea!!!! Starting in 3....2.....1........ 499925
    Also i was thinking about adding some inlay of another wood or material.....i can do this on the knot too!!!!!!!
    I just realize that anchico is so much hard to work, specially because the humidity in the inside, but nothing can stop me now!!!!!! Starting in 3....2.....1........ 186986
    Wath is the Black Powder Catalogue that you mention?? Can you give me a link to it?? Neutral

    Gods be with all of you!!!
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    Post by 8fingers Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:15 pm

    http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Index.aspx

    https://www.dixiegunworks.com/default.php?osCsid=8464a35e8f8c3652dbadbaa986727f23

    These are the only ones I've dealt with, and there are probably others.
    I wonder how these super hard woods would do for nuts and nut sockets? ANCHICO and quebracho"
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    Post by juancheco Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:22 am

    Good Idea.......lets pull the trigger and find out.....
    Twisted Evil
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    Post by juancheco Thu Apr 21, 2011 6:12 pm

    Well, i´m back with some flashes, after find some free time for work, let´s hear the pictures talking....

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0410

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0411

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0412

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0310

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0413

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Foto0414

    This weekend here, in Argentina, is a large weekend, for Pascuas Christians celebration. So, i hope i can put some more time on it!!! Starting in 3....2.....1........ 186986
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    Post by Ivo Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:00 am

    Looking good man. Smile

    That wood looks as tough has a brick. cyclops I've actually seen amateur gunsmith shape a stock that looked to be of similar "brick wood" with a metal file. Crazy, I know, but he said it's the only way, since the rasps dulled too quickly and the belt sander was too hard to control. Also a strip cut from a sander belt about an inch wide can be used to smooth the stock, kinda like polishing a shoe. Wink

    One thing that worries me in this build is the midsection of the stock, a bit thin there...so careful no to remove too much wood while giving it the "curves". Other than that, all looks very promising. Will be interesting to see how this build turns out...definitely going for unique here.

    Good Luck and Happy Holidays,

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    Post by juancheco Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:08 pm

    Ivo, it´s a hard wood, but rasps go very well, at least the ones i own!! Before finish it, it will have a moment alone with my hands and chisels, I want a carving work on the stock, with a Normand Mitology style. Let´s see how it works.....I´m newbi on it too!!!!!
    See, one of the pieces that I take away by saw, had as much 5mm thick, and I swear I can´t break it by hand (I´m a 265 pounds and 5.7 feet tall guy), so, I don´t said that is steel, but I think it´s Ok...!!!
    And now, I want to show to all of you, my sketch of the "trigger", and see if you are to kind to tell me if this is ok.......
    This weekend I´ll work on the prod, next week post some picts about it.

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Balles10
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    Post by Todd the archer Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:14 pm

    Your sketch looks good to me!
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    Post by juancheco Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:17 pm

    Thanks Todd!!! I was waiting fotr you!!!!!
    See ya!!!! Good weekend!!!!!
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    Post by Ivo Mon May 02, 2011 10:28 pm

    There is a bit of a problem with the trigger axel position. It should be inline with the sear to prevent roll back.

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Axel10

    Look at Lightly's crossbow build for a better example.

    https://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t43-photo-essay-of-one-of-my-first-crossbows

    As well as Basileus's site.

    http://users.utu.fi/sjsepp/paja/designing_crossbows/designing_crossbows.html#NutAndTrigger

    Also it's worth mentioning that you should try to not over complicate the trigger because you might have trouble inletting the space for it.

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    Post by juancheco Tue May 03, 2011 8:53 am

    Ivo!!! Good morning!!!

    Thanks for your advice, i tell you that I´m having troubles already, because I give some shapes to the stock, maybe I would do it after the carving and inleting work......but that´s wath I got for being anxious.....jajajjajaja!!!!!

    I´m getting a lot of experience here, about things that i think that already know.....

    Do you think that a spring is necesary?? I don´t know how does it work, the after shoot (to call it in some way)...

    BTW, Ivo, are you Ok?? I read you strange....bad mood.....i´m wright?? Sorry for ask, i don´t mean to be meddler or curious...
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    Post by mac Tue May 03, 2011 9:25 am

    Juan,

    Ivo is right about the trigger geometry. Spend an hour or so moving the trigger pivot point around on your sketches. Use a compass to see the path of the "nose" of the trigger. Do this until you understand the implications of different pivot locations. In an ideal situation, the nut will not move at all until the nose of the trigger leaves the notch.

    This will be time well spent.

    Mac
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    Post by juancheco Tue May 03, 2011 5:37 pm

    Mac!!! You're wright!!! I just doit, and both of you were on the true....the nut rolls back, a few mm, but it does!!!
    I change the position of the nose and align with the pivot center. Also, i was thinking that is so hard to make the holes exactly like the Autocad drawing..... Maybe a little tolerance is admitted....a mm or two...
    So, I will try it like Ivo show me, in the Basilisk pictures web site....!!!
    Thanks Mac!!!!!!!
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    Post by Todd the archer Tue May 03, 2011 6:27 pm

    Yes I missed that critical part, sorry about that. In fact I line mine up like Ivo shows. In other words the center of nut, and the point where the tickler and sear meet and the pivot point of the tickler should be a 90 degree angle.

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    Post by juancheco Thu May 05, 2011 10:28 am

    Don't be sorry Todd!!!!!!! None of us are robots!!!!!!
    That degrees TIP is fine, i can design over that parameter....!!!!!!!
    Thanks!!!!!
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    Post by Ivo Thu May 05, 2011 7:52 pm

    BTW, Ivo, are you Ok?? I read you strange....bad mood.....i´m wright?? Sorry for ask, i don´t mean to be meddler or curious...

    Thanks for asking...women are driving me nuts, so there goes my mood...Laughing. It has nothing to do with the forum though, just occasionally I'm an Admin here and I still haven't got a good grip on how to "put it softly", so I might sound a bit harsh - My apologies guys, without you this forum wouldn't exist. Smile

    Now with that trigger...I was working on my trigger last night and saw a great similarity between your design and the one I got off of a factory crossbow. Look at where the axle is Surprised Smile ...

    Starting in 3....2.....1........ Th_IMG_2364 Starting in 3....2.....1........ Th_MVI_3820

    ...Still that trigger isn't balanced and the housing had to have a little stop support to allow this axle placement.

    Take Mac's advise and get everything working on paper first.(I love what he called it "CAD - Cardboard Aided Design Starting in 3....2.....1........ 524936 Laughing ) ...make a few paper cutouts, pin them to a board and simulate the action - experimenting with various axle placement and making necessary adjustments on paper by trimming the sear/edge angle.

    BTW...I noticed a slight improvement in your English ...do you have an Englidh spelling checker in your browser/ on the computer? That should take you a step further. Keep up the good work! Starting in 3....2.....1........ 84490

    Ivo

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