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    Red Oak Board (x)Bow.

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    Post by Ivo on Sun May 29, 2011 10:44 pm

    Good Day,

    This is a "little" project I'm working on and though it was meant for simple testing(and if all goes well a present for a good friend)... I started shaping it and got a little carried away. Laughing

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Backtoback

    A few quick swings with a rasp and then dremel came in for touch ups. Shocked

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. DSC01441

    So easy to get carried away. Razz

    Anyways, this project wasn't really supposed to exist since it was meant as a testing platform for some designs and some video tutorials I'm putting together,...BUT...it's turning out so awesome that I just can't treat it like it's not worthy of your attention. Red Oak Board (x)Bow. 499925

    This crossbow is really tiny - being somewhere around 23" total in length! The arrow groove/track on this one is actually cut right in the stock...I like the removable tracks, but in this case I made an exception. It was done in two steps - first the slot was cut on a table-saw and next I used a router with a "v" bit to bring the slot to proper dimensions so that the center of the arrow nock is level with the string...which kinda looks like this.

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. DSC01450

    Red pencil is just something I thought would be a nice touch since the lighting in my room is terrible enough to cause the edges to "blend" no matter what angle you shoot from.

    Ok, moving on...

    The trigger that I have planned is actually kinda radical in a sense that it basically a piece cut from a square pipe... Shocked yeh...it's pretty flimsy looking stuff, but that's where I remind you and myself that this project was started with testing in mind...and not to be built like a tank....so here is the basic concept and the few parts I've cut and case hardened.

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Bullpup2

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_bullpupRed Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_DSC01418 Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_DSC01419

    Now, before you guys ask me about those aluminum trigger housing walls - those are only for fitting, the housing will be made from steel. The only aluminum part in this trigger will be that piece of aluminum channel which will act as a lever extension that will be linked to the trigger...should be fine(I think Smile ).

    This project has been dragging turtle style mainly because I work and barely have any free time, but I hope I get more time to work on it in the next few days...the neighbors aren't complaining yet. Red Oak Board (x)Bow. 728780 Razz

    Ivo

    PS: And yeh...of course let me know what you guys think.
    Smile


    Last edited by Ivo on Wed Jun 01, 2011 5:23 pm; edited 2 times in total



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    Post by jake-owa on Mon May 30, 2011 2:42 am

    Ooh a little pistol bow! I like it.
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    Post by 8fingers on Mon May 30, 2011 10:16 pm

    cyclops ...Wow! cheers Jam It takes my breath away! Bullpup stock! Give yourself a big ATTABOY1
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    Post by Ivo on Tue May 31, 2011 3:02 am

    Thanks guys, I like the smooth curves - it just flows...and what even I
    still can't believe... is I free handed it all with a bulky ass dremel. Razz



    For the limb on this one I have this little guy planned...

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_IMG_0018

    It's just a cut down version of the 150lb fiberglass prod that right now
    draws probably somewhere around 180-200lb and needs to be powered down
    back to 150lb, this will be done by sanding off some material on the
    inner side of the limb...so basically I need to re-tiller it, shape the
    tips, cut the nocks, and paint it.

    Tillering will definitely be fun since a part of it will actually be a tutorial video I've been meaning to put together for some time now on the subject of measuring draw weight using a set of pulleys to get some mechanical advantage over the load and allow the use of lighter spring scales. tongue

    HOWEVER...I do have a little cold wind in my back about it not working out, so my second choice will be to actually press my own limb from uni-d prepregs and action-boo.

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_IMG_0020

    A toughy for me at the moment, so I really hope the first one works out.


    Now...The limb mount is something you will reeeaaally like!...I'm sure. Very Happy

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_prodmount

    I've thought it up recently, a really simple semi-quick release
    contraption. Basically there are two freely rotating rods with a
    threaded holes in the middle, the bracket that will be holding the limb
    has a slot cut in it and as the screw is tightened(forgot to draw a washer there Embarassed ), the friction between
    the bolt and the bracket will force the pin to rotate and thus pull the
    bracket - tightly securing the prod. It's amazing what you can do with a
    simple bent piece of metal. Laughing ...I'm finishing up the sheet metal brake to bend that piece, so I'll have that part made in no time.


    Ivo



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    Post by Basilisk120 on Tue May 31, 2011 8:53 am

    I really like the trigger mechanism. I had a the start of a similiar idea but I really like how you fleshed it out.



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    Post by Ivo on Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:06 am

    I like that trig too...alllot actually. Smile

    It's a version of the one that we were talking about over PM -I just want to test out how it holds up over all and then move on with larger scale testing.

    Made a little progress on this build too...

    Ivo wrote:I'm finishing up the sheet metal brake to bend that piece, so I'll have that part made in no time.

    >>>Sheet Metal Break

    Ivo



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    Post by Ivo on Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:07 pm

    What's up guys. Smile

    I would have thought it's a curse - all in one day practically every essential to this project piece of equipment either broke down or needs replacement of consumables. Drill chuck locked up, belt on the sander ripped, dropped a file and the damn thing shattered, vacuum suction stopped and dust collector ripped when I was cleaning it out, caliper just died on me...these are only a few things not including a few broken/dull bits and some cuts I got as these things broke while in use...Now I "would have thought" it was a curse, but I don't believe in curses...so it's just a hard detour my shop is telling me to take.
    I was stuck with the sheet metal brake for some time and the failures in that field were my primary excuse not to do anything else in this project...now since all my tools broke, I guess that's out of the way. Laughing So I went ahead and continued with other things.

    On the router table with a drum sanding head I reduced the thickness of the cut down 150lb Taiwanese prod to what seems to be the perfect weight for target shooting (no idea really what the weight is, couldn't find my scales, but it's light...I'd say too light actually - age old problem of under powering the bow while tillering Smile )

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Photo413

    An interesting detail was to see these weird lines running perpendicular to the limb in certain areas, at the moment I'm assuming these are the different length bundles used to get the limb taper during the limb pressing process, that I've exposed by sanding down some material. cyclops Moving on...

    The new string(10.5 loops of B-50, BCY Halo serving) on my string jig(piece of 1.5"x1.5" oak and two metal posts)

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Photo312

    The tiller seems to be off by a tiny bit with one limb bending better than the other, but hopefully I'll be able to correct it without much loss in power of this already a tiny bow. cyclops Also, "Note to Self" - Glue on some limb tip reinforcements...too much string wear and just looks flimsy. Smile

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Photo510

    Next...Cut the slot in the stock and fitted the prod in place. Nice and tight fit...

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Photo112
    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Photo213

    ...and that's a wrap for the day.

    This addition was made possible by my tools going on a strike and my brother waking me up at 3am, in distress that his Xbox(Live ID) got hacked and that I must help him get it back, which we finally did at around 6am...so I'm wasted...no point of going back to sleep(I'll just be late for work that way), so I went down to the shop and got busy. Got some more stuff on the sheet metal deal, so make sure to check that out too. Smile

    Ivo



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    Post by Lightly on Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:02 am

    Ivo, this is really really cool! Did you design it? And the pattern for it as well? You have a very nice eye for the shaping...

    Here's hoping your tools decide to cooperate, and we get some more pics, soon..!

    Best;
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    Post by Ivo on Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:14 pm

    Hi Lightly, Thanks(again) Smile Have you ever seen "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels" ?



    I'm getting better bit by bit and starting to put my earlier stocks to shame, drawing inspiration is becoming easier too as even smallest details will do it for me now. Thanks for the encouragement Ranger Lightly.Red Oak Board (x)Bow. 951629

    Gotta tell you, I got home really late (3am) so my photography was pretty lousy to say the least, but the finished mounting bracket (even in it's unfinished state is wickkked!)...here goes > Red Oak Board (x)Bow. 669485

    So everything starts with a quick template...and a bracket is made (didn't have the time to fix the brake, but I'm growing accustomed to how it works, so I basically eyed out the bend allowance and it still turned out precise...easy stuff Smile ).

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo1Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo2-1

    Next I made a drill guide(which is basically a piece of maple with a piece of aluminum screwed to the side of it and the whole thing is clamped to the work piece for drilling) - drilled the holes for the posts...followed by cutting the blanks for the posts.

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo4Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo11Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo3

    After that did the layout of all the openings to be cut in the bracket for the bolts and the prod, drilled a few corner holes, cut out the unneeded material using a dremel, and filed the openings clean.

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo41Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo51Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo12

    Really wished I had my chainsaw sharpening file (round rat tail) for the
    rounded corners, but used a 117 Dremel cutter bit which turned out to
    be even better(product link)...but more about that later...now the "posts"

    After cutting and cleaning up the posts I inserted them in the holes I drilled for them in the stock earlier and used the bracket as a template to drill the opening for the bolts and also drilled 1/3 of the way through the posts (not all the way - not to lose control of the bit as it exits the back of the posts and go through the soft wood behind it...the amount of pressure taking to drill through metal slowly is more than enough to put a hole all the way through the stock). Then I put the posts in a vise and finished drilling all the way though, cleaned up the holes a bit and started tapping threads *broke the tap* then re-drilled the holes with a larger diameter bit and tapped them with a larger tap (I'm doing all of this by hand by the way Smile )..after tapping the thread I used a counter-sink bit to allow easier location of the holes once everything is being assembled.

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo21Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo31Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo32Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo42Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo52Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo33Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo43

    So all the parts are practically done and fit is adjusted...

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo22Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Th_photo23

    All that's left is to assemble it - proving the concept. Red Oak Board (x)Bow. 499925

    Before you guys watch the vid and give me beef about me mumbling...keep in mind - I got home at 3am, gave my dog a bath, then did all that work and the vid was shot around 6am...so I'm reeeeallly tired. So if you didn't get something - just ask, I'll be happy to explain. Smile



    Now here's a quick sneak peek of what I did before I called it a "night" and went to work...

    Red Oak Board (x)Bow. Photo13

    Above is a jig I made to help position the scope before I get into all that (16ga) sheet metal origami again. It's basically a pivoting set of aluminum angles and plates riveted together...I don't know what I'm into with this (in theory everythign easy, but the math behind it is a bit intimidating)...anyway... we'll see how it works out in the end...wish me luck. Smile



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    Post by banuvatt on Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:38 am

    What gauge sheet metal did you use for the bracket?
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    Post by c sitas on Sat Jun 15, 2019 5:54 pm

    my friend , did you happen to notice the date on the post your working with?
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    Post by banuvatt on Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:06 pm

    I know this post is old but I just want to build a crossbow with a similar attachment with this.
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    Post by c sitas on Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:53 pm

    I am glad you replied. I spend a lot of time just reading on these old posts. This place is a gold mine of knowledge. I've built several units. Some turn out better than others. For what you want to do I would think .100 or .125 steel would be good. If you can't work that heavy of metal, back off on the thickness until you can work it. I can't vouch for that style of anchoring the bow. I have already completely tore the end of the stock clean off. Main thing is to be tight but, I can't say for sure that solid is the answer. I tend to favor the lacing method . The stock that I tore the end off of was solid , similar to what you were viewing.Aluminum might work but, it has a tendencey to work harden when bent real tight. You would just have to lookiit over good when you were done.
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    Post by banuvatt on Sat Jun 15, 2019 10:46 pm

    I am not a big fan of cord bridals on crossbows specifically crossbows that have a rifle shaped stock and aren't based on medieval or renaissance designs. I don't know why it's just I don't it looks very appropriate. You probably already know this but cord bridals are good for crossbows that prods aren't made of steel like wood, or a composite. Steel wedges will dent and damage a natural prod if it's wedged in too tight. Wooden wedges are good for non steel prods though. A good method I have seen someone do was cut a slot in front of the crossbow for the prod as you would normally do. But make it deeper then put a block in front of the prod. Then drill two holes through the block also through the top of the rails to the bottom in front of the prod. Put two dowels through the holes to match them up in place.
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    Post by c sitas on Sun Jun 16, 2019 8:21 am

    Check out "Todds stuff". He's a modern --"old timer". Works only on medival stuff. Very cool.I'm 76, but not into  medival. I still hunt ,therefore I like my bows like my ladies, hot and fast. I only hunt with what I make.
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    Post by banuvatt on Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:20 am

    I like Tod's Workshop I subscribe to his YouTube page specifically because he makes crossbows.

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