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    I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

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    Evanology
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    I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Evanology on Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:48 am

    Hi, I'm new to the crossbow forum, and new to crossbows I guess. I've been making small crossbows for a little while, and this is my first large one.

    The problem is that I can't drill out the area in there because nothing is fitting to drill it out. I've been using the Dremel Trio and a bandsaw for the crossbow. How could I drill out the inside so it is a nice smooth rectangle shape for the cable to ride under the crossbow? Its a sort of medieval/compound/modern/wood crossbow. Using a drill has only chipped the sides of the wood and made it look bad. Its going to take a lot of sanding to get rid of those, and to smooth out the crossbow.

    Here are some pictures of the problem:




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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Todd the archer on Fri Aug 19, 2011 1:27 pm

    Welcome to the forum, I believe the tool you need for the job would be a router with a straight cutter bit. Used with a guide, it should give you the results you are looking for.



    That is an interesting crossbow you are putting together, perhaps you can tell us more about it.



    Also it looks like plywood you are using. Not trying to nit pick but probably not the best material to use, but if that is all you have to work with it would be better if the grain ran lengthwise.



    Any questions do not hesitate to ask.



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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Evanology on Fri Aug 19, 2011 2:13 pm

    I didn't really have a choice with the wood grain because when I got it, the long side was against the grain and the side that went with the grain was too short to make the cut.

    Would the router bit be long enough to go through? Its 1 1/2 inches thick.

    The crossbow is made from scraps in my dads shop. Been making it without plans. The whole thing is made entirely of wood and should be a 40-50 pound crossbow. Its not even close to an actual hunting crossbow, but it is fun to shoot. All the wood on the crossbow is going to be sanded down to a rounded shape, except the top where the groove is going to be.
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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Basilisk120 on Fri Aug 19, 2011 3:37 pm

    This sounds more like a job for a jig saw or a coping saw than a Dremel. The coping saw has the advantage of being cheap to buy but more labor intensive.



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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Evanology on Fri Aug 19, 2011 3:41 pm

    Oh, I have a coping saw in a drawer some where. Sounds fun... I also have a jig saw, but the wood is so tough, that the blade on the saw bends and doesn't cut anything.
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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by juancheco on Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:26 pm

    It would be desirable to moisten the material. Thus the grain remains compact and easier for the task. Here in the carpentry, the guys work that way with this material. They also use a saw called mouse tail. It is similar to an endless saw , except that the leaf is a teeth wire . That way you can cut the material without any problem. Remember to wet the wood and press at the same time, because you run the risk of bloat.

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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by 'lybbert on Sat Aug 20, 2011 4:45 pm

    Tips to prevent tear out; Use masking tape, lay it down to cover the area to be worked and a larger area.
    Clamp your work piece to a sacrificial backing and cut into or through the backing.
    Use a knife to score the edges of your slot deeply.
    Use a fence on your router. Work from both sides, cutting in shallow passes.
    Cut your bandsaw blade, insert into a hole, resolder it, and cut from the inside.
    A band saw cut started from the outside, but in a place you can conceal and reinforce might work. using a fence will help keep the edges straight.
    Product called a drill saw- tip is a drill, rest is a spiral toothed saw. one I have is 1/4 in dia.
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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Ivo on Sat Aug 20, 2011 5:56 pm

    Welcome to the forum Evanology, I see guys have already covered some(practically all Smile ) of the ways to can get that piece moving.

    To add to the list...I would mask the piece, layout the hole, score the lines with a knife, drill a row of holes, then clean out the unneeded material with a chisel(working from both sides), and file the gap smooth. That's the simplest way I can think of. Smile

    The crossbow looks familiar. Can't put a finger on it this very moment, but perhaps Youtube? scratch

    Good luck,

    Ivo


    Last edited by Ivo on Thu Aug 25, 2011 4:30 am; edited 2 times in total




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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Guest on Mon Aug 22, 2011 10:17 pm

    The crossbow looks familiar.
    You need an upgrade bro. Laughing or some damn sleep (YEH! YOU IVO! You nocturnal bastard!!!)

    I showed you his vids couple of weeks ago. Let me refresh your memory.



    Ok tongue


    Evanology to the forum. I haven't subscribed to your channel yet, but will do. Keep those updates coming, Ivo and the guys on here are all about crossbows and will help out for sho!

    Peace,

    Skyline

    PS: Sorry if I sound crazy --- I'm 13


    Last edited by Ivo on Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:44 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : I need an upgrade, but you need to learn to spell - BRO. :))))
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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Ivo on Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:14 pm

    Ahhhh....yep. That certainly rings a bell. Smile

    I've seen the "4 of 3" scratch Smile . I don't really comment on youtube videos except do a few invites to the forum on occasion. Anyway...there are a few things that can be suggested *since Evanology took on a challenge of building a crossbow with easily accessible materials/tools* lets have a little fun here.

    I'll just go down a list of what to lose and what to improve...I'll keep it short.

    Compound Prod:

    1. Power it up a bit.

    Insert fiberglass posts into your pvc's. In US, these posts/rods can be found in any major hardware store. White/yellow/orange/red in color with a reflective sticker on one of the ends, 5 feet in length, and costs about a dollar. One should be enough to power up both the top and bottom pvc's.

    2. The wheels and the way they are mounted need a little bit of attention.

    2.a. Pushing off of the principle of any bow - "The lighter the tips of the bow, the better they accelerate". So, to get the most out of your bow, you will need to lighten the wheels first. I suggest drilling out five or six holes like so...



    2.b. The bolts you used for wheel axels are also weighing down the tips too much. Replace them with something lighter, say...a 3/16" framing nail. Sort of like this (it's spread out a bit to help in understanding where is what Smile )...



    ...You can keep the fiberglass rods running the full length of the pvc's and drill through them at the tip...this will reinforce the tips more. It's an optional step in my opinion, because the pvc tips should handle this light a load...up to you man. Smile ...

    2.c. The proper way to attach the string to the limbs is with a ""Yoke" (2:45)



    ...basically you need three strings...2 short ones(yokes) to connect to the limbs...and 1 long one(bowstring) to connect to the yokes. Keep in mind, in the video they show five strings - two yokes, two cables, and a bowstring. In your case you are using a "pulley" system(strings not attached to the wheel, no cables involved), not a cam system(string and cables attach to the cam). Just connect it the same way you did it before, only this time using a yoke (which will help bend the limb evenly).

    3. If you noticed in the video...

    ...the gap that you were asking about earlier is actually open on one end (haven't shot my compound in a while Laughing ), so you can just cut in from the frond of the stock with a band saw and mount the riser last.

    4. You may also notice that once everything is set up properly, the prod will draw farther - easier.

    So you will probably shorten the prod even more. The whole idea with compounds is to get more draw length while keeping limb travel short (shorter, more powerful limbs, bending less, but giving a longer/lighter draw via compound system) >>>http://www.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/pulley.htm



    5. As a last note...It's all about draw length when it comes to speed.

    Make sure that the arrow is seated as far back as possible - contacting the string or in your case the nut(latch). The longer the string is given to accelerate the arrow, the better. Because every inch the string travels accelerating the arrow - energy stored in the limbs is being transferred to the projectile...packing a punch known as kinetic energy. Smile

    Spoiler:
    Kinetic energy

    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    The kinetic energy of an object is the energy which it possesses due to its motion.[1] It is defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its stated velocity. Having gained this energy during its acceleration,
    the body maintains this kinetic energy unless its speed changes. The
    same amount of work is done by the body in decelerating from its current
    speed to a state of rest.

    The speed, and thus the kinetic energy of a single object is
    frame-dependent (relative): it can take any non-negative value, by
    choosing a suitable inertial frame of reference.
    For example, a bullet passing an observer has kinetic energy in the
    reference frame of this observer, but the same bullet is stationary, and
    so has zero kinetic energy, from the point of view of an observer
    moving with the same velocity as the bullet.[2]
    By contrast, the total kinetic energy of a system of objects cannot be
    reduced to zero by a suitable choice of the inertial reference frame,
    unless all the objects have the same velocity. In any other case the
    total kinetic energy has a non-zero minimum, as no inertial reference
    frame can be chosen in which all the objects are stationary. This
    minimum kinetic energy contributes to the system's invariant mass, which is independent of the reference frame.



    The cars of a roller coaster
    reach their maximum kinetic energy when at the bottom of their path.
    When they start rising, the kinetic energy begins to be converted to
    gravitational potential energy. The sum of kinetic and potential energy in the system remains constant, ignoring losses to friction.


    Ever need any new crossbow project ideas, just PM me...I got a few fun ones. Smile

    Enjoy.

    Ivo




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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by 8fingers on Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:02 pm

    I noted some flat fiberglass rods at a big box lumber store in the chain link fence area. I think they are used to stiffen the ends of chain link fence panels / attach the tension bands to the fence. I saw 4' lengths in black or white.
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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Evanology on Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:58 pm

    Thank you Ivo! All this help is going to be printed out. That's funny that you've seen some of my videos, a rare chance to say "small world." Thanks to everyone else too. I ended up just covering the hole with a piece of wood and filling in the cracks with wood putty. I tried some of these methods too, but outdoor treated plywood off a job site is too tough for water.

    Definitely going to build a better second version. Shooting this one is a lot of fun, but it's really weak compared to a real crossbow.
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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Ivo on Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:04 pm

    Haha, yeh...I try to keep an eye out for anything crossbow related. Glad to see people like you picking up the topic independently and sharing it with the public. Keep up the good work.

    So you've technically completed this build as I saw on youtube. That nylon string is a bitch to tie, so I understand why you didn't use the yokes as proposed...it's all good. Smile

    So, given the gained experience, the future builds will be more and more refined. Any ideas for the next project? I like the challenges of working with what's on hand, so it's bound to be fun no matter which turn the build takes.

    Stop by more often man, check out the "crossbow building resources" forum and lets get the ball rolling on your builds and get that channel some views. Smile

    Ivo




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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

    Post by Orcbow on Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:08 pm

    That's a really cool idea you have going there Evanology.

    Great video too.

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    Re: I need some help...(Wooden Compound Crossbow)

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