Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

Latest topics

» Medieval Crossbow Replica
by bartek Wed Dec 07, 2016 1:24 pm

» Prod construction
by actionbow Wed Dec 07, 2016 1:10 pm

» Hello from MD
by bigcountry_ky Mon Dec 05, 2016 7:40 am

» How to make a miniature medieval crossbow
by El Zurdo Sun Dec 04, 2016 3:31 am

» A real miniature crossbow
by El Zurdo Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:19 am

» Intesting Mechanical Bow can pre-cocking and locking
by stm2010 Sun Nov 27, 2016 10:29 pm

» Invitation
by Vee Sat Nov 26, 2016 11:42 am

» Chu Ko Nu (Zhu ge nu) chinese repeating crossbow making process from china
by El Zurdo Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:51 pm

» Miniature medieval crossbow crafts
by El Zurdo Fri Nov 25, 2016 9:10 am

» Why use a Crossbow?
by Xamllew Mon Nov 21, 2016 8:49 pm

» Minimum bolt weight steel prod
by Armymedic Fri Nov 18, 2016 5:01 pm

» where or how to ask a question
by WINCAR Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:51 pm

» roller nut difficulties
by Gnome Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:13 am

» The serious build
by hullutiedemies Tue Oct 25, 2016 3:35 am

» Hello from arkansas
by Onager Lovac Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:06 pm

» Wham O Powermaster
by Onager Lovac Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:05 pm

» Folding Stock Bullet-bow Project
by Xamllew Wed Oct 12, 2016 6:23 pm

» New member here!
by Xamllew Tue Oct 11, 2016 6:36 am

» Finnish Crossbow Forum
by hullutiedemies Fri Oct 07, 2016 6:54 am

» Ordo pro balistari
by John Edgerton Mon Sep 26, 2016 1:24 pm

» CNC Improved Chinese Trigger Xbow- Gnome style
by jaeger22 Tue Sep 20, 2016 1:12 pm

» xbow build.. trying to finish..where does the time go
by Onager Lovac Wed Sep 14, 2016 3:30 pm

» An afternoon at the range
by Gnome Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:00 am

» I am back with new project
by stm2010 Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:35 am

» European medieval an renaissance archery contests and target
by Lightly Sun Aug 28, 2016 4:08 pm



    Phil Abrahams
    Talisman Crossbows

    Posts : 47
    Join date : 2011-07-16


    Post by Phil Abrahams on Thu Sep 15, 2011 2:38 pm

    Here is my way of how to make limb's or a prod that will last for many year's and will deliver high power with high speed .

    Phil Abrahams
    Talisman Crossbows

    Posts : 47
    Join date : 2011-07-16


    Post by Phil Abrahams on Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:21 pm

    What you will need to make one of these is a length of forged alloy bar,rolled of say 6mm thickness and long enough for the width and around 3" wide or wider depending on how wide you want your prod or limb's and some bandsaw blade from a timber yard.If you cannot source a bandsaw blade then you could use a handsaw blade as long as it is long enough,please bear in mind you do not have to go right to the limb tip's.I make mine at 34" wide shoulder to shoulder for a 10" powerstroke so if you want say a 12" powerstroke i would go to 36" and 39" for a 15" powerstroke.If you want an 8" stroke then you could go to 32".Starting at the centre of your bar alloy you need to mark it dead centre then i keep the upper part of the prod that face's the string straight or you may dip the centre slightly to allow less string friction.The centre of the prod is say 3" deep and mark out a line 3-4" from the centre line on each side of your alloy bar.Then from this line you taper the end of your prod down to 2" so the end's are 2" in depth then you mark out your nock end's of around half inch to 3/4" and either fet out or bandsaw your prod then file to smoothe out.This is now used as a template to make your outer skin's from your bansaw blade but you will need to cut this with an angle grinder.You want one on the front and one on the back and when cleaned up you can then drill the centre of the alloy prod with a 4 mm drill and then drill the dead centre's of your skin's now i use a masonry drill bit that i sharpen with a diamond file as this is tungsten carbide and this is a much cheaper way than buying a tungsten carbide engineering bit and doe's the same job.I rivet the three piece's together using 4 mm dia music wire.Once riveted i then mark out around 3" interval's until i get to the tip's but drill and then rivet as you go do not drill all then rivet as this will not work out you need to drill then rivet then drill then rivet.For a neat job i slightly countersink the saw blade skin's and rivet until the head spred's out to cover the countersunk hole then grind back flush,you only need to go as far as the shoulder's or you could even come in from them say an inch or two if you wish.Make sure you rivet the end's of you skin's and clean up the whole prod.If you are making limb's then the same method applie's and you could make them both as one prod then cut in half or do them both separately.I have found that a good reliable prod that can draw to over 400 lb's is not a problem made this way and if you want less power then only use one skin either front or back.For much higher draw weight use thicker bar and use very heavy duty blade or double up on the skin's.I think you could make an extremely heavy draw prod with this and no they do not break and they are very safe,probably the safest i would say.Or if you would like one made like this then i will make one for you.These take a while to make and finish off and i paint them and finish the nock end's off with leather hide for good string cushoning and less noise and vibration,or you can have a custom one made to your exact taste.Just let me know your draw weight and powerstroke and we can go from there.

    Phil Abrahams
    Talisman Crossbows

    Posts : 47
    Join date : 2011-07-16


    Post by Phil Abrahams on Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:30 pm

    Also i could upload a vidoe of my crossbow bullet system in action on here if you would like to see this as this is another great avenue of shooting with a crossbow and it is fun.

    Todd the archer
    Crossbow Junkie

    I live here!

    Crossbow JunkieI live here!

    Posts : 581
    Join date : 2010-02-25
    Age : 54
    Location : sellersville,pa.


    Post by Todd the archer on Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:46 pm

    Very nice Phil, would like to see some pictures or maybe even a video.

    Thanks for sharing, Todd


    Posts : 542
    Join date : 2010-03-01
    Age : 37
    Location : Arizona


    Post by Basilisk120 on Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:22 pm

    Hey thanks Phil. I'll have to spend some time looking over this and defiantly try my hand at making one these prods

    Something Something Dark Side

    Phil Abrahams
    Talisman Crossbows

    Posts : 47
    Join date : 2011-07-16


    Post by Phil Abrahams on Sat Sep 17, 2011 3:14 pm

    No worrie's i will get to do a video very soon as i have a few modification's to do as i lightened the limb's and may have over done this a tad,but i have already got this nearly completed.I could show you the severe impact on thick timber and concrete block's and thick toughened alloy.I have also been conducting further experiment's with some new design crossbow bullet's as these are very cheap to make.Will be uploading a vid within the next day or two and then i will do some long range video's in action.

    Phil Abrahams
    Talisman Crossbows

    Posts : 47
    Join date : 2011-07-16


    Post by Phil Abrahams on Sat Sep 17, 2011 3:35 pm

    What i forgot to mention on the lightweight high power prod was that when you got your alloy main piece all done you can recurve it with a heavy hide mallet by resting the tip's to the shoulder on a timber block then hitting it until you get your required recurve to limit the shockwave's to the hand holding the prod i use anything like an old towel or even a car sponge work's very well and i also like to pre bend the prod and then after making sure there are no sharp end's and bur's fit a string and be careful when you pull doing this as i put my back out doing one of these and i could not move for an hour or two,lol.Anyway if you gently pull it back to three quarter's draw and make sure you get an even arc in your prod and maybe correct with grinding or filing as when this part is all sound,then when you fit on your outer skin or skin's then you will be fine as the bandsaw blade will flex quite easily and when completed you will see that it is quite a bit stiffer than a glass prod of the same dimension's and no heavier either.Another good way to reduce the weight even further is to drill in between each music wire rivet with a 6-8 mm drill and then insert good quality alumminium dowel and rivet them into place and be sure to countersink your hole's first do this with the tungsten carbide drill and a good quality high speed steel countersink bit should do this quite easily.Also this will improve the prod's strength.These prod's are not that difficult but can take a while and if you take your time then you will end up with a prod that will cost you a pretty penny to buy and be bullet proof.Any crossbow out there today could be fitted up with prod's made this way and it would solve a lot of limb problem's.All a manufacturer need's to do it get all part's lazercut.What i want to do a little later on is to bring out a range of gorgeouse hunting crossbow's all made from wood and fitted up with these prod's and they could be very affordable i will see what i can do and maybe a nice medieval version or two as i got a few plan's i want to get done.Anyway please feel free if you need any help,no worrie's have fun.

    Last edited by Phil Abrahams on Sat Sep 17, 2011 3:40 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : more inf on prod)

    Sponsored content


    Post by Sponsored content Today at 4:08 pm

      Current date/time is Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:08 pm