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    Heavy German sporting crossbow build

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    Lien93
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    Post by Lien93 on Thu Aug 23, 2012 2:26 pm

    First topic message reminder :

    Thought I'd share this on the forum

    This is a project I'm working on and its going to be covered in ebony and bone when finished.

    Internal components still have to be made

    Prod and cranequin is made by me.

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    Post by Rizzar on Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:54 am

    Hey Lien!

    Adorable work. Especially the cranequin.

    But i have a question concerning the design: on the pictures it seems the mounting ring for the bridle cord is underneath the main cogwheel instead in the center of the ratchet bar. So you could possibly get problems spanning precisely? Or is it just on the pics? If the ratchet bar was mounted under the cogwheel you would have a better stability and less string lift as well.

    Have you experienced any problems so far??

    Greetigs Rizzar
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    Post by chaz on Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:14 am

    Lien,

    Thanks for the illustration ! I take it that this is a view of the bottomside and when flipped over the sprocket and crank would be on top. Hopefully you are working on an illustration with measurements on the sprocket and crank. I actually like your illustration better than what is in the Payne - Gallwey.

    Thanks Chaz
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    Post by Lien93 on Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:04 am

    I tried with the ratchet bar on the underside, but it got in conflict with the nut, so i mounted it on the top, it seems to work just fine. the mounting ring is completely aligned with the ratchet bar.
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    Post by Rizzar on Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:16 am

    Ahh, it just looked like on the pics.

    Did you get too much pressure on the nut when the bar was underneath???

    I asked someone with much experience on this issue some weeks before but he stated, that if the nut was designed to hold couple of hundrets of lbs it should not get in trouble with some downpressure when the string moves over in spanning with a cranequin.

    Problem with the higher bar increases with higher draw weights I guess, so probably not a big issue with your big bar and a common draw weight.

    Originally my plan for this year was to build a crank, too, but due to the lack of time and many other projekt ideas I will buy one from poland.

    Greetings Rizzar
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    Post by ferdinand on Sun Jan 27, 2013 1:46 pm

    Thanks for the picture! I will try to make one in a while. Great bow.
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    Post by shiloh on Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:36 pm

    love this project Lien, as mentioned above truly, over the top
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    Post by Taxus on Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:02 am

    I really like your choice of ebony and bone for the tiller, the contrasts make for a very striking tiller.
    The photo's of the cranequin were very informative, it looks like you've quite some skill in metalworking!
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    Post by Lien93 on Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:46 am

    Made a sight for the crossbow, it is adjustable in all directions.

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    Post by stoneagebowyer on Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:10 pm

    How will you handle the front site, or will you use the tip of the bolt as an aiming reference?
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    Post by Lien93 on Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:25 pm

    Got all the trigger parts fitted today and tested them with a lighter bow before i put on the heavy one, I do think that the trigger pull is far to light , but i think that i can solve that with a stronger trigger spring. Now i only have to finish the bone inlays arround all the pins and a little more metalwork.
    I've also ordered some bolt materials for this monster, i hope 18mm birch shafts wil do...
    Is there some easier way to make groves for rawhide fletchings in the shaft than splitting the shaft?
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    Post by Lien93 on Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:44 pm

    Some metalwork done today.
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    Post by ferdinand on Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:49 pm

    Lien93 wrote:Some metalwork done today.
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    Looks verry nice! I thinkt i have seen this before.... haha. lol! Nice work on the tickler! i like the ebony, lots of work i guess?!
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    Post by Geezer on Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:14 pm

    "Is there some easier way to make groves for rawhide fletchings in the shaft than splitting the shaft?"
    My late house-mate, ('sillyperson' on this forum ) built a set of jigs so he could fit a router to follow a curve on each side of an ash shaft. He cut a groove a few mm deep and then glued in a pre-shaped and bent wooden vane. (I've seen some pictorial evidence of this, and the wood-fletched bolts I have seen appear to have been prepared in this fashion) It should be possible to do something similar with rawhide or parchment for vanes. Geezer.
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    Post by mac on Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:46 am

    Lien93 wrote:
    Is there some easier way to make groves for rawhide fletchings in the shaft than splitting the shaft?

    Have you seen this early 16th C pic? It looks like the artist has fudged the proportions of the bolt to get it all in the pic, but otherwise everything looks quite reasonable.

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    Post by Geezer on Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:50 am

    Yup, that's the illustration I had in mind. It's a router-plane attached to a jig. Put the bolt in, scrub the plane back and forth a few times, turn the bolt over, do it again! Done in a few seconds. I want one just like that!
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    Post by Lien93 on Tue Feb 12, 2013 9:30 am

    Thats the kind of jig i had in mind, just could not remember where i had seen it before, maybe i wil have to build one similar
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    Post by Lien93 on Sat Mar 02, 2013 2:17 am

    Some progres on the build, now i just have to do the final assembly to finish it
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    Post by Crossbowmen on Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:06 pm

    Love your work!!

    I started with a crossbow from leafspring but it didnt give any  Evil or Very Mad
    Im using some fiberglass now but one day I will challenge the raw steel again and make it work.

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