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    Leaf-spring prod

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    Kale Schlegel
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    Leaf-spring prod

    Post by Kale Schlegel on Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:07 pm

    Bonjour! Yeah, anyhow , I've had a set of 5160 big A$$ leaf springs in my yard for over a year, and while outside earlier, I thought of making a prod for a medieval style crossbow. At about 3/8" thick and oh... 4-ish feet long with a whole in the center. Being a unoriginal topic, could one put up a link to a question similar to mine? I know to grind slow and blah blah, but i need to know taper length, and designs for knocks, and whether to re-harden the knock or leave it annealed. Would a steel cable for as a string? I've got little else that would would, nothing in fact. I'm beginning to ramble so time to sign off.. Lemme know! study
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    Kale Schlegel
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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by Kale Schlegel on Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:20 pm

    http://crossbow.wikia.com/wiki/Making_a_steel_prod_from_a_leaf_spring

    8fingers
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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by 8fingers on Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:33 pm

    I have been grinding some knives lately and using an aluminum block for a heat sink after each set of passes. Might be a good idea to clamp a block of aluminum to the backside of your cut anywhere you are concerned about heat build ups, especially near tips where there are so many converging cuts.
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    African Archer
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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by African Archer on Thu Oct 25, 2012 2:37 am

    Hi the crossbow wiki way of doing things is the way I did it as far as cutting and knocks go, as for dimentions pm rizzar he is a very helpfull person with a way to work thos things out, and he got me to where I am on my crossbow, I'm sure he wouldn mind helping. One thing tho, I was warned by the company I had cook my prod that old abused leaf springs can be dangerous due to very small stress cracks, so keep an eye out for them, but otherwize good luck, it took me a while to build mine but was very satisfying.
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    Kale Schlegel
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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by Kale Schlegel on Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:12 pm

    Hmm good point , I gotta look for those potential stress cracks!
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    olrono
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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by olrono on Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:21 pm

    Kale Schlegel wrote:Hmm good point , I gotta look for those potential stress cracks!

    You need to look for a local 'spring shop', an then an 'auto-machine shop' to "magnate-flux" your spring for cracks. At the spring shop will sell you a single piece of new spring with out the hole and you can cut your knocks then have them re heat your finished prod. Working with a 'single' leaf is not expensive.

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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by 8fingers on Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:21 pm

    I was actually given some small but prod sized springs by my local spring shop. They were new, but in their scrap pile. Good source for knife steel if you are forging your blades.

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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by Rizzar on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:04 am

    If you can get new leaf springs from a dealer/producer without the center hole it would be great.

    The security aspect is always limited by that hole.

    Stress cracks do not need to be visible and can be in the micro structure.
    There are ways to examine old leaf springs for cracks and weak points, but i think efford and cost would exeed the price for a new package of springs.

    If you want to use a spring leaf ensure it is absolutely symmetrical, cause here in europe most car leaf springs are not.

    For the tapering I would suggest to taper it down to around 40% cross section and then make a tip section.

    The design of the tip section depends on your abilities and demands.

    Medieval rolled ends are more complicated to produce than a simple cut out "pin" tip.

    Greetings Rizzar
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    olrono
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    Re: Leaf-spring prod

    Post by olrono on Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:56 pm

    "Finding cracks " and dealing with them is not expensive. When they re-build a auto engine, they check for cracks using an electro magnet and powdered iron and the cracks are exposed, even small ones you can't see with your eyes. The connecting rods and crankshaft usually get this treatment on a stock go to market car. Race car builds always get this, and guess what? If they find little cracks it's not the end of the part, you have them 'polish or shot peen' them and your on your way. With just a single 'crossbow prod', I am sure if the man is a nice guy he would do it for you for nothing.

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