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    Some beginner questions

    kwandokun
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    Some beginner questions - Page 2 Empty Some beginner questions

    Post by kwandokun on Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:59 am

    First topic message reminder :

    Hi everyone,

    I'm a new member here and I'm keen to get started on my crossbow making journey.

    I've been watching youtube videos all night, and have been reading the wiki, as well as other posts to try and get as much information as possible.

    So far I've worked out all the parts of a crossbow, and how exactly each component works.

    I've seen designs where the tiller is made from 3 pieces of wood, and some designs where only 1 piece of wood is used.

    What are the advantages/disadvantages of each design?

    My initial thoughts are that the 3 ply method would mean that it would make accessing the nut and trigger components much easier, however overall it's not as robust as a one piece build.

    For a beginner, would you recommend a 3 piece body or a 1 piece to start with? From reading the wiki it looks like cutting out the groove for the nut and the trigger seem rather fiddly.

    Looking forward to any feedback from the seasoned builders here.

    Cheers,

    Kwandokun
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    Post by kwandokun on Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:08 am

    Cheers Geezer,

    Makes perfect sense.

    Is there any way to bend the bar without a forge?
    Geezer
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    Post by Geezer on Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:06 am

    Bend the bar without a forge? Sure, and if you've got mild enough steel, you might be able to bend it cold, with a big enough hammer, but anything this thick is gonna be a beast to bend cold, so you need to get it red-hot. If you know anybody with a welding-torch, that will do great. Otherwise, a propane torch may get it hot enough, but it will take a while. An ordinary gas kitchen-stove will get it pretty hot too, given enough time.
    But if you have access to a barbeque pit, just load it up with charcoal, get a good fire going, then stick in your iron and blow with a hair-dryer. It'll get hot in a hurry. When your iron is cherry-red, it will bend fairly easily. Use a heavy hammer... I have a 3 lb. and a 2 lb. for forge-work. Geezer
    Todd the archer
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    Post by Todd the archer on Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:03 am

    In this picture you can see one that is bent from 3/8" round rod from Home Depot. It was done cold using a vise and a hammer, was not too difficult. I then hammered it square on the end that goes against the nut and hammered the sides flat. This was all done with out heat (yeah alot of hammering!). Used 3/16" rod for the axle. Was not sure it would be stiff enough but seems to work fine.

    Some beginner questions - Page 2 Components005



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    Post by Taxus on Sat Dec 08, 2012 11:45 am

    I've made a trigger cold bending steel bar much like the one in Todd's photo.
    The method I used with 10mm square steel bar is to put the bar in a vice, slide a hollow steel rod about 2 feet long over the bar and then use it as a lever to make the bends.
    You have to be careful not to bend the bar in other dimensions, but it is also possible to bend it back into shape.
    This works well for me and is useful if you don't have a very heavy vice.
    kwandokun
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    Post by kwandokun on Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:19 pm

    Great tips guys. Going to try cold bending with a vice. Tarxus, your way of getting more leverage is genius.

    Todd, what was the length of the steel rod you used for shaping? Is 500mm long enough?

    Also, has anyone used brass as a tickler material? Is it too soft? My lockplates will be brass so aesthetically a brass tickler would match up nicer.

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    Post by Todd the archer on Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:39 am

    I think 500 mm would be fine, or start longer and trim after it is bent. I think brass would be to soft and might bend too easily and wear to fast on the bearing tip end.



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