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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

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    Post by Regerald Sun Dec 06, 2009 1:09 pm

    A crossbow, made mainly out of garbage that i found. Stock was glued from 4 separate pieces of a pine lumber, limbs were made out of a steel leaf spring, suspension of a car. Here I'll post some pictures, but I'm sorry about quality.. Maybe I have to bye a new camera to post better pictures Smile
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    Draw weight is about 130 lbs, weight is about 11lbs.. A main disadvantage of this crossbow is weight distribution. Actually, it's a common problem for all steel prodd crossbows, where bow is heavier than a stock. Hard to target it. And trigger system is a bit primitive, just a nut and trigger with a brass bearing. But in common, device works well.. I'm looking for a good place to test it at long distance, but here in the city it's a little bit difficult.
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    Post by Ivo Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:01 am

    First crossbow is always lots of fun building and it comes out unique in every way, either messy( Very Happy certainly NOT the case with this one Very Happy ) or has one or two primitive parts in it, for example the one I'm currently working on(my first attempt) has a single tooth nut in the trigger cyclops lol!

    Excellent work and Big Thanks for presenting it in English.

    I have one small thing to add, to qualify for "build along" this post would have to have at least one diagram in it. Do you still have that example picture of trigger you made in Sketchup?

    Again cheers Great Build cheers and I hear you are working on another one, a recurve this time, please take lots and lots of pictures of every step...I'm looking forward to seeing your future creations come to life. drunken
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    Post by Regerald Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:32 pm

    Yeah, in this "first" crossbow a trigger mechanism is a primitive part.. Here is the picture:
    Pine Stock, Round Cams 819b42a16b68
    Do not do it in the same way. Trigger part (which you push with your finger) have to be at least twice as long as I did..

    Next crossbow is designed to be (relativly) small and light Smile Now I'm working on recurve fiberglass prodd, which is designet to be 24'' long. Will put photos after any success Laughing
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    Post by Mike Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:43 pm

    Very nicely done...espicially for a first try.

    While you are lightnening up the prod, lighten the cams and cables also.

    Again...great first try.

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    Post by Ivo Wed Dec 09, 2009 12:28 pm

    May be just keep it for bench shooting at an archery club...that way the only thing you will need is a bipod. Smile

    Did you consider making a deeper cut in the rail (углубление в направляющей Wink ) and riser to allow three fletch arrows?
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    Post by Regerald Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:31 pm

    Maybe bipod is a good idea.. Or just a sack of sand as a support. Smile

    2 Mike: I've tried to lighten cams by drilling extra holes in it, but it wasn't sufficient.. Cams are still heavy because they were made of iron.. I thought about making new aluminium/fiberglass cams and exchange steel cables for fast-flight line, but then.. I think I'll leave this one as it is. And I'll fulfil all the improvements in a new crossbow..
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    Post by Regerald Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:36 pm

    Ivo wrote:
    Did you consider making a deeper cut in the rail and riser to allow three fletch arrows?
    I can shoot three fletch arrows bu now, if fletches aren't higher than 5-6 mm (~1/4''). But making deeper cut is a simple thing, so I'll do it as soon as I got the inspiration for this Wink
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    Post by Ivo Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:00 am

    I have an interesting question...and I usually get the same answer Smile , but how did you measure the stock to fit you and first of all is it comfortable? Just I never saw anyone take measurements for a custom stock and had to devise my own adjustable stock contraption to measure my younger brother.
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    Post by Regerald Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:59 am

    Ivo wrote:I have an interesting question...and I usually get the same answer Smile , but how did you measure the stock to fit you and first of all is it comfortable? Just I never saw anyone take measurements for a custom stock and had to devise my own adjustable stock contraption to measure my younger brother.
    At first, I made 2D model using brown paperboard and tried how it feels in my arms. It's easy to improve shape of a stock by cutting it with a scissors. Stock is very comfortable for me, but does not fit for everyone (I have very long arms Smile )
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    Post by Ivo Sun Dec 13, 2009 2:45 am

    Cardboard? That's something I've only heard being used for trigger test models. Is it some special(thick) cardboard...like the cardboard bases in boxes from refrigerators/stoves *3*? Or take thinner cardboard and glue it into boards? jocolor They look like they have potential in our field. Very Happy

    Pine Stock, Round Cams DP-3-4-ill


    My first attempt at making a test stock was from construction (insulation) styrofoam...the blue one that I tried using for making casting models...didn't like it, because it bent a lot. So I finally decided to clamp a few rulers together. Speaking of measurements, have you ever tried using the measurement charts on arbalet.info?
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    Post by Regerald Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:42 am

    Nothing special, just ordinary cardboard like the one used to make boxes. I glued several layers together to do model. I also heard that hard styrofoam is used as a model material by a professional designers, so I believe some sorts of it could be just perfect for modeling.. I didn't use any measurement chart, so I have nothing to say about it.. Rolling Eyes
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    Post by Ivo Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:35 am

    I once had the same idea as gunsmith111, to use a hot wire to cut out a stock out of one big piece of styrofoam and just sand it smooth...then apply a thinned down layer of water based wood glue (like the white PVA paste glue) to serve as an isolation barrier and simply apply fiberglass cloth and resin over it. Definitely something to try in my next build...perhaps start on something small...like pistol grips for my paintball gun. jocolor
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    Post by Igora Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:04 am

    It is pleasant to me - as Regerald has made shoulders(Limbs).

    About simplification of blocks [cams]. I doubt that it will be suitable for small blocks [cams]. But for big, probably possible to do them as[like] a wheel with spokes. To prepare a rim with a flute [groove]. Then bend it to any form(shape). And then to weld spokes on it and to the central plug.... The welding device is necessary.

    Anybody so did not try?(Did anyone ever try that?)

    Мне нравится - как Regerald сделал плечи. 
    Про облегчение блоков. Сомневаюсь что будет пригодно для маленьких блоков. Но для больших, вероятно возможно делать их как колесо со спицами. подготовить обод с канавкой. Потом его согнуть любой формы. А спицы потом приваривать к нему и к центральной втулке. ... нужен сварочный аппарат.
    Никто так не пробовал ?


    PS вопрос к IVO: - достаточно ли пригодно получается переводить с помощью автоматического переводчика? Smile


    Last edited by Ivo on Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:04 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Terminology adjustments)
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    Post by Mike Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:44 am

    That's a good idea about building a custom stock

    I have a Darton Impact bow I've been trying to find a stock builder to make me up something custom.
    I currently have a large chunk of high quality, very dense foam that would work well since the stock isn't a loaded member.

    Thanks for the idea.
    It ain't Medieval or old...but it's still a crossbow.!

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    Post by Ivo Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:22 am

    Igora wrote:.......About simplification of blocks [cams]. I doubt that it will be suitable for small blocks [cams]. But for big, probably possible to do them as[like] a wheel with spokes. To prepare a rim with a flute [groove]. Then bend it to any form(shape). And then to weld spokes on it and to the central plug.... The welding device is necessary.

    Anybody so did not try?(Did anyone ever try that?).......

    I think you have just enlightened me Igora...I never looked at it that way before, but does this make you think of something? Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy



    Pine Stock, Round Cams MyREBe

    I'm amazed...It looks like such cams can in fact be made your way. Bravo!...only those are going to have to be some nice welds(so it doesn't warp).

    Как ты наверное уже понял...я в восторге от этой идеи. И похоже что подобные блоки можно именно твоим методом изготавливать. Браво!.....только вот варить предетса аккуратно(чтоб не повело) Very Happy

    PS вопрос к IVO: - достаточно ли пригодно получается переводить с помощью автоматического переводчика? Smile

    Прекрасная идея уменьшить размер шрифта оригинала текса Igora...переводчик в принципе дает жизненный перевод...есдинственное терминологию он плохо понимает и предетса несколько новых слов запомнить и вписывать самому...я в [*] буду подсказки писать и если у меня мозгов хватит сделаю тему с переводом анг. арбалетной терминологии на русский и наоборот. Кстати, приветствую Вас Игорь на моем (пока еще правда маленьком) форуме арбалето строителей.cheers

    Wonderful idea to minimize the font of the original text...the translator gives a decent translation...only it doesn't take terminology well and a few new words will have to be remembered and later manually added... I will write hints in [*] and if I have enough brains I will make a topic with English terminology translated into Russian and vice versa. By the way, I welcome you Igor to my(still small) forum for crossbow enthusiasts. cheers

    Mike wrote:That's a good idea about building a custom stock

    I have a Darton Impact bow I've been trying to find a stock builder to make me up something custom.
    I currently have a large chunk of high quality, very dense foam that would work well since the stock isn't a loaded member.

    Thanks for the idea.
    It ain't Medieval or old...but it's still a crossbow.!

    Mike

    I got this one book for Christmas and simply can not put it down...I cheated a little and looked through it out of curiosity...there is so much more in there drunken drunken drunken

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    Post by Igora Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:15 am

    Ivo wrote: ...only those are going to have to be some nice welds(so it doesn't warp).
    ...только вот варить предетса аккуратно(чтоб не повело) Very Happy
    It so. For qualitative welding I have already bought a welding semiautomatic device with carbonic gas. Расчитываю that I can show in the spring, how such blocks turn out. 
    это так. Для качественной сварки я уже купил сварочный полуавтомат с углекислым газом. Расчитываю что весной смогу показать, как такие блоки получаются.
    Ivo wrote: ...I got this one book for Christmas and simply can not put it down...I cheated a little and looked through it out of curiosity...there is so much more in there drunken drunken drunken 
    The interesting book. The first time I see the description of similar things. Itself I do such things only on own discretion and taste.
    интересная книга. Первый раз вижу описание подобных вещей. Сам делаю такие вещи только на собственное усмотрение и вкус.
    Pine Stock, Round Cams 4090336edd94.th
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    Post by Ivo Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:24 am

    Looking forward to trying out something like that myself in the future. Also...good photography Igora...with meaning. Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

    As for the books...you are right...beginners stuff...they are not exactly about stock making...still looking for those, but already beginning to understand what goes where. Also they're great to sleep on...not very comfortable, but the dreams are beautiful.
    study Sleep drunken

    Я пока только мечтаю о подобных подвигах в будущем. Кстати, красиво фотографируеш Igora...композиция со смыслом.Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

    С книгами все правильно...пособие для начинающих и не очень углубленно в изготовление приклада...пока еще в поиске, но уже начинаю осознавать что по чём. А еще на них спать кластно...не совсем удобно, но зато сны снятса красивые. study Sleep drunken
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    Post by arbalest Tue Apr 20, 2010 5:52 pm

    Ivo,

    To make a custom stock to fit, the distance from the butt plate to the trigger should be the same distance as from your shoulder to the first finger joint, with arm and hand extended, Hope this helps.
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    Post by 8fingers Sun Apr 17, 2011 3:49 pm

    Brownell's sells a drop and pull gauge that works really well. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=387/Product/PULL___DROP_GAUGE
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    Post by ccoolbow Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:08 am

    best crossow i ever seen
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    Post by Phil Abrahams Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:19 pm

    Not sure if my compound set up would qualify for this topic,but anyway that is a fantastic job you did there with that compound bow and your first bow as well i love the stock and limb's and it come's together nice.Anyway if you like i can upload some pictur's of my new compound set up that i amm currently running and testing out on the Mantis crossbow /Ballista to some crossbow's to other's.That's what i like most about crossbow's we all got our own way's and mean's and it all add's up to more fun,that Lightfoot doe's some amazing stuff with his unique innovation's making it all much more interesting i don't think we can ever get bored by crossbow's as there is alway's something new just around the corner,cant wait to meet up with you Joel we will have some good fun i know for sure.


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    Post by sairaj999 Tue May 15, 2012 10:03 am

    hi ... how r u im big fan of crossbows .. but how do u cut spring steel i have many in my garage and many tool but i want to ask u how to cut it in shave without losing its spring abelitiy
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    Post by ferdinand Tue May 15, 2012 12:55 pm

    sairaj999 wrote:hi ... how r u im big fan of crossbows .. but how do u cut spring steel i have many in my garage and many tool but i want to ask u how to cut it in shave without losing its spring abelitiy
    Only way to cut it is a grinding/cutting disc in a anglegrinder.
    I did it and works verry well.

    Nice build by the way!


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    Post by Basilisk120 Tue May 15, 2012 5:17 pm

    Ferdinand has the basics down. The trick to keeping the temper (the springiness) of the steel is to take is slow and keep the heat down. It helps to have some water handy and at least one ungloved hand. When the metal starts to hot to hold, cool it off with the water. Depending on the size of the piece this is going to take some time.
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    Post by ferdinand Tue May 15, 2012 9:30 pm

    Basilisk120 wrote:Ferdinand has the basics down. The trick to keeping the temper (the springiness) of the steel is to take is slow and keep the heat down. It helps to have some water handy and at least one ungloved hand. When the metal starts to hot to hold, cool it off with the water. Depending on the size of the piece this is going to take some time.
    And dont forget to use ear protection! Leafspring makes a hell of a noice when u cut it! And safety glasses is absolutely critical, the splinters of this kind of hard steel are sharp as razors!
    Grinding is a pretty dusty thing, if u got a old vacuumcleaner u can use....
    Or u will be blowing black snot for days!!!
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