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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:14 pm

» Digitar prodsc
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:42 pm

» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm

» Arab Crossbow
by kenh Thu Jan 05, 2023 8:39 pm

» Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 01, 2023 12:22 pm

» Wood Prods
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm

» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:54 am

» Simplified Löffelhotz speedloader
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 09, 2022 4:05 pm

» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am

» Josef alm in English
by Juniper Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:22 am

» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm

» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am

» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm

» Low Draw Weight Build
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 12, 2022 3:09 pm

» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
by ora8i Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:13 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 24, 2022 6:13 am

» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am


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    Post by African Archer Sat Oct 26, 2013 3:21 pm

    Hi everyone, iv not been around here for a while, to much going on, just finished this bow up ready to ship. its the same style as the others, except i haven't bound on the prod, the steel wedge system, i found much better and obviously east to take apart.  This bow is made from kiaat and is 250lb at 8in.
    It also has a longer tickler, giving a really smooth< easy pull.

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    Post by kenh Sat Oct 26, 2013 3:45 pm

    Nice looking work!  Is the Masai logo and text engraved?
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    Post by African Archer Sat Oct 26, 2013 3:49 pm

    Kenh thanks, the steel is etched, i used a very strong solution of salt water and a car battery, i used a vinyl stencil to mask off what i didnt want etched.
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    Post by Todd the archer Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:23 am

    Again very nice work!

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    Post by Gnome Sun Oct 27, 2013 6:00 am

    Very nice. What is the top wood, ebony? Where is the roller nut?
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    Post by African Archer Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:07 pm

    Thanks guys, i just cant get enough of building these xbows, gnome, i give all my steel parts an acid bath, a weak mix of hydrochloric acid, i find it takes file and grinding marks out and gives the paint a nice surface to bind to, the nut was having one of those bathes at the time of taking the photos.
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    Post by Scotty Wed Oct 30, 2013 7:03 pm

    Absolutely beautiful! Shocked Cool
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    Post by jds6 Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:23 pm

    Top notch build, very impressive!!!

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    Post by Gnome Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:44 am

    I'd like to see that steel roller nut, please. There's been a lot of discussion of the use of metal for these parts and I'd really like to see how yours works for you.
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    Post by Anatine Duo Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:01 am

    nice finish work and details:D
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    Post by Hotspur Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:39 pm

    Nice lines. Elegant!
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    Post by African Archer Tue Nov 12, 2013 12:23 pm

    Thanks guys, I do think that it might be time to build one that's closer to an original tho, may be along the lines of a maxamilion bow
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    Post by Lightly Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:55 am

    That is amazing, Archer... just beautiful. Loving the metal work, which, we don't do here. 
    If you want to do a Maximilian, I can send you the "outline" that we use, if you like. We gable ours, front and rear, as close as we can get to the original. It is a really beautiful bow, and I imagine, yours will be even more beautiful, if this bow is any indication.

    Can't wait to see more!

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    Post by African Archer Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:59 pm

    Lightly thank you, i have spent a lot of time looking at your and geezers bows, the are very inspirational and beautiful. I would really appreciate it , if you would send me you out line, the lines are great, this one i think will be for me, to go with my 400lb bow. 

    Gnome sorry i forgot to answer you question, the deck is african black wood, dalbergia  melanoxalon, please dont take the spelling as correct, it is very hard and hard to come by these days, the nut is made from d2 tool steel, but mild steel will work just fine.

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    Post by African Archer Fri Nov 15, 2013 1:34 pm

    Just incase anyone is interested in the numbers , speed is not everything, but it is always nice to no.
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    Post by Rizzar Sat Nov 16, 2013 2:25 am

    Very nice work AA!

    Really like to watch your progress with your crossbows and I am personally very glad the prods are working out so fine.


    I for myself would consider in making the stirrup a bit lighter, I have encountered a drastic improvement in handling when reducing weight at the head of the crossbow.

    This one looks pretty heavy in combination with the wedges.

    Needless to say, the stirrup should be appropiate to the bows draw weight, so if you consider making a future one lighter it should not bend when spanning^^

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    Post by African Archer Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:01 pm

    Hi Rizzar, yes i agree with you, i never designed it to be so big, but there must have been a problem with the laser cutter or the software, but thats how i got it. I love the prod designs, particularly the 250 lb , im alway trying to get the most out of them, the 6mm lift i build into the tips has made a large difference.    One thing i want to try, is to duplicate them in fiberglass, with a carbon backing, one thing i havent worked out is, if i make a 6mm thick fiberglass prod will it draw more or less than the steel one and would it be able to have a longer draw length, maybe you or evo can help, or anyone. Bear in mind it will be an exact copy of the steel prod.
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    Post by Rizzar Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:27 pm

    I am not really into fiberglass, but I would suggest it would have a much longer draw length (lower elastic modulus).

    I  have no clue on the maximum tension so I would not estimate force needed to draw.


    Everything depends on the fibres.
    My dream project for the future is to make a composite similar all glass fibre roving bow which should be due its diameter very powerful.
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    Post by African Archer Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:41 pm

    I can get some .5mm fiberglass and my idea is to laminate them in a mold to form the shape of the bow, without having to work with wet glass fiber, il have to experiment with it and see what happens, the glass is the same stuff the bow builders use and might do the trick, and hopefully with some paint still look period and with better performance.
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    Post by Rizzar Sun Nov 17, 2013 12:57 am

    When laminating low profile layers into a mold I do not have any Ideas how to calculate anything.
    You must remind yourself, that every layer has an own prestress (in german bowbuilding scene there is the word perry-reflex) which can either way improve power or disturb draw length to breakage.
    I would start trying it without deflex. Youll probably loose some speed from its original geomtetric, but since the power draw should be longer than in steel the higher brace stress could get along better with your used tiller design.
    I guess there are not many layers of glass in the vertical direction in the material you get??
    Btw I think you won´t get along without working with glue wetted glass.


    As you mentioned in Lightlys thread -since I didn´t want to abuse that one for techno discussions- here my opinions about a claplock:
    Especially for your concerns, producing and selling crossbows for actual hunting purposes a claplock in its behavior should be superior to a rolling nut mechanism.

    In history the rolling nut was almost completely abandoned after the claplock was developed.
    It is easier to construct and has speed benefits a rolling nut never reaches (no mass that has to be revolved).
    Most of the load has to be taken by the front tiller, not the mechanics so it will in every case be more convenient to trigger.
    And a "wippe" mechanism is much easier to build than a gafa or cranequin.

    I am considering a claplock for the next moths cause -though It is not my favored time period- I am very curious about it.

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    Post by African Archer Sun Nov 17, 2013 9:13 am

    Rizzar the glass I can get is made by bear paw, it unidirectional , what I want to do is glue the layers together in a mold the same way a modern long bow is made, just without the wood, IV bee thinking alot about the clap lock and have done some test where I drew a bow to lock off center, when placing a bolt on the crossbow I left it abot 10mm from the string, I have found the the consistancy of arrow flight improved, and this is how a clap lock works , as for construction it is much Easier to build, I didn't like the idea of the string slamming into the bolt but mo I find it better
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    Post by Rizzar Sun Nov 17, 2013 10:34 am

    You can bring the bolt as close to the string as possible.

    If you leave lets say .5mm to the string rest it would do its work in preventing the bolt slide too far into the string rest causing failure.

    I know what you mean with laminating it together, possibly the .5 strength glass will not bring prestress when forced into the mold, but I can not exclude it.
    Only way is to test it. Unidirectional should work out fine.
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    Post by African Archer Sun Nov 17, 2013 12:01 pm

    Thanks Rizzar, il have to do some home work and see where it goes, il probably only start work on the mould early next year, but will post the progress

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