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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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4 posters

    Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...)

    phuphuphnik
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    • Post n°1

    Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...) Empty Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...)

    Post by phuphuphnik Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:47 pm

    Taken from the images Septua gave me on my stonebow post, I fell in love with the tiny bow on one of the pages. 
    I took a day and made some drawings, now I'm cutting the parts out. I'm taking some license with the shape, but then it isn't an exact copy to begin with. I'm using 1018 then case hardening it. For the punch outs I'm thinking of acorns and oak leaves.
    Cheers!
    Chriso

    Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...) Img_2016
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    • Post n°2

    Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...) Empty Re: Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...)

    Post by Rizzar Sat Dec 21, 2013 1:15 am

    Hey P!



    Sorry for taking so long to write here, have been busy with my own work!

    If concerned about the name call it a ballestrino.

    Consider a look at this myarmoury topic http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=19163
    Should perhaps assist you a bit.


    But, with an eye to your other topic, I want you to ask yourself the question if you have the equipment and experience to heat treat spring steel correctly?


    I am looking forward to seeing progress here!

    Greetings Rizzar
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    • Post n°3

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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 21, 2013 7:40 am

    I've been a smith for about 12 years. I know how to heat treat, but lack the facilities. I'm fixing that, making a tempering furnace and a bigger forge. There is a local tempering company that has offered to treat the springs as well.  I share your concerns about the tempering. I don't want my students to get hurt from a prod breaking.
    cheers!
    chriso
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    • Post n°4

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    Post by mac Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:12 pm

    phuphuphnik,

    I had good luck using 5160 automotive leaf spring for the bow of the ballistrino I made many years ago. I hardened in oil, and drew the temper "by eye" to the gray that follows the blues.  It is such a small bow that an Oxy-acetylene torch with a rosebud tip was sufficient for the job.

    My bow has "pin" nocks rather than the "hooks" that the one in your picture has.  How do you plan on making the hocks?  I suspect that they are separate pieces from the bow its self, but I do not know how they are attached.  It seems like you could probably just rivet them through the thickness of the limb, or you could braze them into "blind" holes.

    Mac
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    • Post n°5

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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:48 pm

    I was thinking Pin nocks as well, or draw out the end and fold it back. What would the issue (if any) with 1075 be?
    As for the stone bows for the kids, I chickened out and bought some fiberglass prods today. I'll still play around with steel, but the build is the research part and we'll add this to the paper.
    Thanks!
    chriso
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    • Post n°6

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    Post by mac Sat Dec 21, 2013 5:45 pm

    Chriso,

    I would be a bit concerned that the 1075 might be more difficult to harden without risk of cracking.  It can certainly be done, but the alloy is not as forgiving as  5160.   The 5160 is formulated to harden deeply but not get too hard.  If is nearly perfect for leaf springs..... And what is a bow, but a leaf spring?

    If you wanted to use a plain carbon alloy, I would recommend something with less carbon.  I would feel better about using 1050 than 1075.

    Pin-nocks or rolled-nocks are certainly easier and surer.  I was hoping that you knew something about those hook-nocks, because I am pretty much in the dark about them. 

    Mac
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    • Post n°7

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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:51 pm

    That is good info!
    I'll use the 1075 for knife blades then.
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    • Post n°8

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    Post by Gnome Tue Dec 24, 2013 6:48 am

    This ballestrino form is new to me. Very cool! So is there some sort of lock/release to slide the mech to hold it in place in the firing position, or to release to slide it forward for re-arming? Or is it dependent entirely on the screw for position and you have to twist it back to span the bow?
    Gnome
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    • Post n°9

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    Post by phuphuphnik Tue Dec 24, 2013 11:25 am

    The nut and tickler are in a carriage that moves forth and back to span the bow. Mine will have a little safety catch under the tickler. It appears that the inspiration piece has a tab attached to the nut that you hold with your thumb  to prevent a misfire while cocking. I'll post pictures as it progresses. as an aside, A friend mentioned she wants one made of Damascus steel....
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    • Post n°10

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    Post by phuphuphnik Wed Dec 25, 2013 11:52 pm

    Hwy Mac, I found this closeup. Apparently the inspiration bow was made by  Dariusz Wojtasz in Poland, and is based on a 16th century French bow.
    Another start, little "assassisin's" bow (I hate that name...) Nockdetalj
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    • Post n°11

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    Post by mac Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:31 pm

    I did a quick search for Dariusz Wojtasz, which brought me to this page. http://www.moonlightrunes.net/sls/bilderenglish.html  Links to more pics of his work can be found toward the bottom of the page. 

    Mac
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    • Post n°12

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    Post by phuphuphnik Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:50 am

    I have the sides dovetailed in. now the smithing begins; once the basement is cleaned, the forge built and the vent installed. sigh. Juggle 


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