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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Ball shooting Crossbows worth the bother
by c sitas Sat Sep 25, 2021 7:34 pm

» Chu Ko Nu - repeating chinese crossbow
by c sitas Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:30 am

» Skew of tiller
by drawknife Fri Aug 27, 2021 9:18 am

» tiller desgin
by crusader Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:37 am

» Want to build modern target crossbow
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» starting a 1400's replica
by tghsmith Wed Aug 11, 2021 10:25 am

» New Medieval just about finished
by Dark Factor Mon Aug 02, 2021 6:41 am

» How do I tune this
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jul 25, 2021 3:14 am

» Plans and materials for my first build
by c sitas Sat Jul 03, 2021 7:39 am

» Bolt rest
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jun 14, 2021 3:24 pm

» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:25 pm

» ash lath and pin-lock crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:56 am

» Late medieval tournament distances?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:20 am

» Cutting delrin straight by hand?
by kenh Thu Apr 01, 2021 8:24 pm

» Other forums like this one?
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Mar 30, 2021 9:23 am

» new find in china, terra cotta warrior site
by tghsmith Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:42 am

» Crossbow Books
by Andy. Sun Mar 14, 2021 3:46 pm

» 95lb ancient crossbow shot faster than 960lb medieval
by Fangbows Fri Mar 12, 2021 11:36 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by kenh Tue Mar 09, 2021 3:16 pm

» re-introduction
by tghsmith Sun Mar 07, 2021 3:15 pm

» 4 fletch question
by 8fingers Fri Feb 05, 2021 3:14 am

» fix bolts
by MPDVM Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:40 pm

» Reverse draw compound bow build
by c sitas Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:20 pm

» New Build for 2020
by Gnome Wed Jan 27, 2021 6:19 am

» Spanning bench ideas
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jan 08, 2021 1:07 pm


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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:44 pm

    Return to early crossbow around XIV th,on Mac's trail. I love the design and the efficiency of those military crossbow they where light, powerful, rough , but very elegant and made to serve a soldier in harsh condition. Tiller:cherry wood prod:yew,nut and decoration:delrin, metal parts forged (Sure Mac is a lot better for this)

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:45 pm

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:46 pm

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:47 pm

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:48 pm

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:49 pm

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:50 pm

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    Post by jeep Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:53 pm

    Next step: tying every thing.

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    Post by phuphuphnik Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:33 pm

    WOW! that is a really nice looking bow! I might have to go for something like that.
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    Post by jeep Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:08 am

    Crossbow completed, Bridle rope and nut string: Hemp soaked with hot oil and wax.
    Next step belt hook.

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    Post by jeep Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:09 am

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    Post by jeep Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:10 am

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    Post by MRobin Thu Sep 18, 2014 1:31 pm

    Really nice.
    I don't like the delrin, but, well, understand it's convenient.
    Love the massive yew prod (draw weight ?) and the bridle.
    I would have added a piece of leather in between the stirrup and the prod (avoids possible deformation of the wood, or rust stains that could corrupt it as well ?)
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    Post by kenh Fri Sep 19, 2014 6:38 am

    Good work!  Nice design.  I do agree with MRobin that the whole Delrin socket thing is a but much (I'd have used brass/bronze sheet stock to frame a Delrin nut).  In addition to a stirrup leather, I'd have put a piece between the prod and socket in the tiller, so there was some 'give' that could be clamped down during lashing, for a really tight fit..  But to each his own.  How about some info on that prod?
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    Post by jeep Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:20 pm

    Yew bow:in the centre thickness :28mm, width 40mm. At the end:thickness 21mm width 28mm
    Length of the bow:84cm. Brace:10cm draw-length 20cm. Very smooth to shoot, so light! and powerful I got hard time to span it by hand,comparing with what I know it should be around 150#. The tiller is to long to span with belt hook. Actually I've adapted a spanning lever, using the stirrup like anchoring point. I am studding to put a lug to use a goat foot lever.
    I do not have bone plate and deer antler not hanging around often  without the deer!! Delrin is a beautiful material: light, easy to work,very strong and cheap.Sorry I wont' stop to build crossbow because lack of original material.I just try to by honest, giving notice of the material I am using.
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    Post by Gnome Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:00 pm

    Jeep, I really like that tiller. I've just started studying making wooden bow staves, I'm interested to see how your prod holds up over time- will it continue to take a set and become a lighter pull, for instance. It looks fairly raw in these images, have you done or will you do anything to seal or protect it from the elements?
    As for the Delrin, I'm a big fan of the stuff myself, I just wish it could be easily had in more colors! I prefer black to white, but it would be nice if brown or cream color were available in sheets. So I don't object to the material, just the bright white detracts a bit from an otherwise handsome work.
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Sep 20, 2014 6:04 am

    You can dirty up delrin to take the edge off the colour. When I split the horn nut on my big bow I switched to delrin. after a month or so of use, it matches the camel bone I used.
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    Post by jeep Sat Sep 20, 2014 7:34 am

    Hi Gnome, I got this prod for quite a long time (4 years for the wood before to shape as bow) I used it for a previous "skane"type crossbow . Time a go I let it stringed to give a light de-flex shape, since I put the string only for shooting. I always been surprised by this prod: efficiency, power lightness.Is so far one of the nicest to shoot of all my crossbow. Yew is very surprising, from the same piece  I cut a second prod and with the same measurements and draw length it exploded sending splinters all around the place!
    I will send the delrin with light sending paper and then rub with wax to give a very very light brown colour. I am waiting for a nice piece of leather to sew and cover (protect) all the the prod before to adorn. I am  thinking adding a bamboo slat on the belly to get some more poundage but I am not sure of the benefit .Is anybody try and find is a good idea? other solution and probably the best would be sticking Tendons on the back of the bow but drying time is so long..The bad side is I will have to cut the nice bridle and everybody know it is a pain on the ass to do a good one . Done redone is the bowyer's destiny !!!
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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:00 pm

    Here is my cord and pulley spanning system . I am surprised of the efficiency and the very quick reloading time needed.When you are used to it ,you can easily shoot 6 or seven bolt a minute! Enough to kill the legend of a dramatic slow time needed to reload. If you add accuracy and power this was a very deadly weapon.
    Now I agree whit Todd,it is bit awkward! On mine the rope have to be shorter because the draw length is 20cm and the system was design for around the usual 14cm for a steel prod. I actually use a military belt because  my leather one don't withstand the pressure!! 
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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:01 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:03 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:04 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:05 pm

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    Post by jeep Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:10 pm

    I like this way to span, but it is not very convenient when you are moving and you have to stand up ! So I am starting  a goat foot lever.
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    Post by phuphuphnik Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:53 pm

    I like the stack of Chinese bows under the table. Smile Why did you start with round stock, just handy, or another reason? I ask because sometimes it makes sense to start with one shape even if most of your finished work isn't that shape.
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