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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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4 posters

    Higher poundage skein-pin crossbows?

    dmanx500
    dmanx500
    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
    I'm new to crossbows


    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows

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    Higher poundage skein-pin crossbows? Empty Higher poundage skein-pin crossbows?

    Post by dmanx500 Sat Dec 05, 2015 8:45 pm

    Having serious trouble with my rolling nut crossbow, and having a 175# prod lying around until I finish it it though of making a higher poundage skein lock crossbow. Would add in a polished metal brace and curving the notch help?

    Living in a motor home makes it harder to make stuff that's for sure.


    Last edited by dmanx500 on Sat Dec 05, 2015 11:19 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : F#@king auto correct and cellphones.)
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    kenh
    Crossbow Junkie

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    Crossbow JunkieI live here!

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    Higher poundage skein-pin crossbows? Empty Re: Higher poundage skein-pin crossbows?

    Post by kenh Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:44 am

    Your message is somewhat garbled, and incomplete.

    WHAT KIND of "serious" trouble are you having?  What does that have to do with your later comment about having a polished metal bar and curving the notch?

    It's Skane (a geographic location) not "skein" (a length of yarn), sometime called a Pin Lock.  My Skane Lock bow is in excess of 250#, and features a lignum vitae 'face' and Delrin (tm) pin.

    I live aboard a 26ft sailboat on a tidal river; at least your workbench doesn't rock and roll when the big boats pass by.
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    c sitas
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    Post by c sitas Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:05 am

    Hey Ken, ANY workshop "rocks". Merry Christmas.It sounds as though the string might be firing on it's own,judging by the way he's talking. But,I'll hold back till he says.While first starting out, I had a model of each lock, roller or pin, that would prefire. Once you study what's happening , it's not hard to fix.
    dmanx500
    dmanx500
    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
    I'm new to crossbows


    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows

    Posts : 8
    Join date : 2013-06-14
    Age : 26
    Location : Barriere, British Columbia

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    Post by dmanx500 Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:27 pm

    I will try to word this better, I have been working on a new crossbow since my last one snapped. The problem is that nothing fits quite right on my new tiller the holes are wobbly because drillpress is broken, and I won't be able to finish the tickler because my forge will be a while away.

    Here is pic of new tiller;https://imgur.com/tDpV4S6

    I figured I would try to build a skane lock bow with the 175# fiberglass jaguar prod I have on hand. The thing is I heard they get iffy over 100#.

    So I wondered if I add a polished metal plate (sear?) to reinforce the notch, and round the surface horizontally (like looking at a "D" from above" to reduce friction and wear on string. Would this be a good idea? The wood I use will most likely be cheap hardware store softwood due to budget constraints. And if I want a better wood I would rather be more experienced.
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    kenh
    Crossbow Junkie

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    Post by kenh Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:52 pm

    Take a look at the build for my Skane Lock build here:
    https://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t945-loose-laminate-pinlock-build?highlight=loose+lam

    I used a small block of Lignum Vitae (one of the hardest woods in the world) to reinforce the lock face.  The face is rounded and has a half round 'channel' in which the pin slides.  No reason you couldn't make something like that from steel but it would be more expensive, I suspect.
    Geezer
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    Post by Geezer Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:18 pm

    There are some very powerful medieval siege bows extant with notch locks.  I haven't seen any up close, but the photos seem to show some sort of reinforce for the notch... probably bone or antler.  Lignum Vitae should work very well indeed if the grain runs the right way: it's hard and resinous- self lubricating.  You may have problems glueing it, so I suggest putting the reinforce in a mortise, with nicely rounded/smoothed edges.  This should work.  Geezer.
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    kenh
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    Post by kenh Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:23 pm

    Oh yes.  I through-pinned and screwed that block of Lignum vitae into place.  That was after de-greasing the Lv glue face and drilling blind holes in both the Lv and and main prod, for epoxy to extend into as well as the rough faces of the prod and Lv.  Hundreds of shots and no problem.

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