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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Anyone make their own bolts?
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» Low Draw Weight Build
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» best type of horn to use..
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» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
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» Drawing of Crossbow
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» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
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» Black inlay
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» Roller nut details
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» 330#/7" wood bow
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» starting a 1400's replica
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» 18th century German crossbow reproduction
by Fangbows Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:15 am

» replacement for baleen?
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» Medieval crossbow finished
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:05 pm

» Trigger mechanisms
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» Finish wooden stock
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:06 am


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    Reciprocating Saw?

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    fester
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    Reciprocating Saw? Empty Reciprocating Saw?

    Post by fester Sun Nov 26, 2017 3:36 am

    I have limited time to work on my build and hope to save some time removing the bulk of the wood when shaping the tiller. Would a reciprocating work well as my budget wont stretch to a band saw. Also what do people use to do the finer shaping should I invest in a spoke shave or draw knife?
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    Post by kenh Sun Nov 26, 2017 5:45 am

    Reciprocating saw -- you mean a "saber saw"?  I use one of those for all kinds of projects.  The only limitation is how deep the blades will cut.  They do well on 2x6 for example, but I don't think they will cut a 3" thick plank.  For hand work I personally like a 4-sided "farrier's rasp" with coarse and medium teeth for bulk wood removal -- I've shaped rifle stocks with on of those.  Spoke shaves are for making spoke and other dowel like things.  A draw knife doesn't work small, tight areas very well.
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    Reciprocating Saw? Empty Re: Reciprocating Saw?

    Post by Geezer Sun Nov 26, 2017 7:56 am

    In my early days at the craft, I used a 'saber saw' to cut out stocks.  It works well enough with boards up to about 2 inches thick, though with the blade supported only at the top, sometimes the cuts aren't quite square (up and down) you'll have to take that into account.
    As for shaping, I used to buy 'sureform' tools, their curved one-handed one worked pretty well, but at a certain point, you'll want to go over to something like a four in hand rasp.  Nowadays I do most of my shaping with flat and convex spokeshaves, but in fact, you can do a lot of the rough work with a really sharp draw-knife.  Geezer
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    Post by c sitas Thu Nov 30, 2017 6:56 pm

    Just a little addition here . 


    if you use a receprosaw, you can buy blades almost any length, all the way three inches to 12 inches.Much heavier saw than a saber saw. Both can be had with a variable speed.Price for the longer blades is of coarse more money . Also the long reach makes them wander a little. Also the better blades can be had in wood and metal cutting. One company makes one they call the "torch", will cutt 1/4" metal like butter, as long as you lube it.
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    Post by fester Sun Dec 10, 2017 5:15 am

    Does anyone just work with hand tools?
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    Post by c sitas Sun Dec 10, 2017 8:41 am

    Sure, there are a lot of things best done by hand . Cheaper and less mistakes sometimes. Also gives you more time to think while the blisters are forming.
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    Post by chaz Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:37 pm

    One might check out the Rockler woodworking tools website for the 1" & 2" microplane rotary shaper. It is best used with a drill press, However, I have used it in a hand held variable speed drill. This does require a certain skill level, patience, and safety awareness to use. It seems to produce more shavings than saw dust. Just a suggestion and seems to be reasonably priced .... worth checking into. More for shaping after the initial cutout.

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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:57 am

    I use Japanese saws, chisels, and, hand planes exclusively. A cheap Japanese saw is a great addition to a tool box, but even the cheap HF ones will dig merrily into wood and fingers.
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    Post by chaz Sat Dec 23, 2017 3:21 pm

    Be ever mindful of one's fingers  Embarassed

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    Post by 8fingers Sat Feb 17, 2018 10:48 pm

    I have to fingers shorter than issued due to a table saw. If you are using a reciprocating saw, try making some templates first. One for the front side that the platen can ride against and another smaller one that hopefully will resist blade deflection.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:59 am

    A Shinto rasp is worth its weight in gold.  I don't know why hand planes are out of fashion , a really sharp jack plane is indispensable. I used to use a draw knife and spokeshave but a good big gouge, a Shinto (they're double-sided course cut and fine cut) and a sharp plane will sort out 95 jobs in a hundred.  Make friends with your local joinery for the rest...

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