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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Look what the smith sent
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» Just finished my windlass crossbow!
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» Sinew backed crossbow prod tillering. Update and questions.
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» Anyone make their own bolts?
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» ash lath and pin-lock crossbow
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» Stonebow Buildalong
by banuvatt Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:00 pm

» How to Attach a PVC Prod to a Stock?
by banuvatt Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:22 am

» finally started my first composite bow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 29, 2020 12:40 am

» AMAZING MINI CROSSBOW code name KillCovid-19
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» Draw length ash lath
by banuvatt Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:47 am

» Would like to buy or rent a Han Chinese Trigger
by PierreC Thu Apr 23, 2020 2:37 am

» High Draw Weight PVC Crossbow Build
by banuvatt Fri Apr 17, 2020 3:07 pm

» Universal standard Crossbow nut
by Fangbows Tue Apr 14, 2020 11:57 pm

» Making Chinese 240lb Han Crossbow
by banuvatt Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:40 am

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by Geezer Mon Mar 23, 2020 9:18 am

» First Build
by banuvatt Thu Mar 05, 2020 7:14 pm

» How to Test the Breaking Strength of a Matieral for a Bow String?
by banuvatt Thu Mar 05, 2020 4:06 am

» Can anyone help me ID this?
by Geezer Sat Jan 25, 2020 4:30 pm


    First Build

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    Post by banuvatt on Mon Nov 25, 2019 5:21 pm

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    Post by banuvatt on Sat Dec 14, 2019 4:35 am

    The draw length of the prod I had planned to make it 10 inches. I was able to reach my final draw length. Now of course I still have to fine tune the prod by taking a bit more wood off the stiff limb. I also have to re-heat treat the belly of that limb to make it look even with the other. But, that won't affect the draw length however it will effect the weight. Any way that besides the point, I am practically almost finished with the prod.
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    Post by banuvatt on Sat Dec 14, 2019 3:37 pm

    I tried to draw out the outline for the trigger mechanism for my crossbow, but I think I made the stock way too short.  So I might try this design it's based off of crossbows in the Philippines let me know what you think. I still want to try to make my original design work, if anyone can help me with it I would greatly appreciate it. This is the link where I got the idea for the trigger design that I might use just in case if the original doesn't work out. http://schwartzcutomcraft.blogspot.com/2015/04/do-it-yourself-phillipino-crossbow.html
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    Post by Andy. on Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:23 am

    Nice work so far.... but have reservations about your intended trigger.

    Your serving will have a hard time standing up to riding over those pins even if they have smooth tips, and they will have to be exactly equal in length for accurate release. Lots of friction too= effort to drag them down when pulling trigger.

    A much better simple and efficient lock is a skane or pin and groove style.

    Both will need a cover to prevent string jump and possible dry fire.
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    Post by banuvatt on Sun Dec 15, 2019 3:45 am

    Well about the friction dragging down he actually made another crossbow, but the holes for the pins are copper tubing. To prevent dry fires I could just put a nock on the back of the bolt. The string groove goes pass the pins always maintaining constant contact with the string. I thought of the skane lock, but the problem with that is I don't have enough room for a long wooden lever. If the lever is too short it will be a very stiff trigger pull. I also had bought some 3/16" mild steel plate thought I might as well make use of it for the trigger.
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    Post by Andy. on Sun Dec 15, 2019 11:01 pm

    If your prod isn't too heavy, and your notch geometry is good you shouldn't need a long lever.

    A conventional trigger that levers and lifts this string should suffice. Pivot point is still crucial for easy operation however
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    Post by banuvatt on Mon Dec 16, 2019 5:14 am

    My prod's draw weight is 40 lbs so it's not heavy at all. The only reason I don't like the skane mechanism is because it slams the butt of the bolt. I thought the trigger I found was a good compromise it worked similar to a roller nut because it had two "fingers" holding the string. You can also like a roller nut seat the end of the bolt in between the two fingers. A nock can be added to the bolt if you want to shoot downwards. The only difference is a roller nut rotates while this after you pull the trigger it just moves the pins downwards. It essentially works the opposite way a skane lockbow does.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Dec 20, 2019 9:42 am

    I have been debating on what trigger mechanism I should use. I want to try to make my original plan work with the roller nut. However, I am having issues with scaling everything to size. I don't like the idea of a pin lock as a trigger because it slams the butt of the bolt also it wears down the string frequently. Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Dec 20, 2019 5:21 pm

    I just got finished with drawing out the design  for my trigger mechanism. Bear with me, I know the upper portion of the trigger looks bulky and rectangular. But, I am working on trying to make it look more elegant. Of course this probably means if I were to do that I would also have to change the shape of the trigger.First Build - Page 2 20191228
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:38 pm

    I found this scrap oak dowel rod in woodshop, thought about maybe using it for the roller nut. Let me know what you think. 
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jan 17, 2020 4:50 pm

    If your bow is fairly light (under 100 lb. draw) an oak roller-nut should suffice.  Be sure to cut the lugs so the grain runs top to bottom and fit a steel sear for the tickler/trigger to work against.  I used to make wooden nuts for light bows. I usually soaked them in molten paraffin (use a double-boiler on your stove) for an hour or so, to make them more resistant to swelling with high humidity.  Have fun.  Geezer.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Jan 17, 2020 5:56 pm

    I measured the diameter of the oak rod, it's like not perfectly circular is that okay? I measured from one side it's 1 1/4" wide in diameter. However when I measured from another side it came out to be 1 5/16" wide in diameter.
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jan 17, 2020 9:28 pm

    It really needs to be circular and the same diameter throughout.  Oh you might be able to make it work as is, but you'll never get particularly good performance.  You're better off looking for something that really fits the bill.  As for inch and a quarter diameter, that's fine.  Most of the period roller nuts I have seen have been inch and a 1/4 to inch 3/8 diameter.  The Padre Island bow is a hair over one inch diameter and the big siege bow in Vienna has a roller at least 2 inches in diameter and about the same in width.  Generally speaking you want the nut to fit it's socket closely, yet turn easily.  Too loose lets the nut oscillate in the socket and tends to wear out the edges of the socket.  Too tight means the lock will freeze up on humid days.  Check your local plastic suppliers and see about getting a bit of Delrin roller... white or black doesn't matter.  Diameter within certain limits doesn't matter, so long as it fits the socket.  Any more questions?  Geezer/DRW
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    Post by banuvatt on Sat Jan 18, 2020 6:00 am

    Okay thank you, I'm going to get a piece of delrin I saw online it's cream colored. I thought this would look nice because it would imitate ivory or horn. However for the meanwhile, I'm going to make a mock up of a roller nut with the oak dowel rod I have.
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu Mar 05, 2020 7:14 pm

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    First Build - Page 2 20200310                                     I finally got the delrin rod for the roller nut it came in the mail.

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