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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Cutting delrin straight by hand?
by drawknife Sun Sep 20, 2020 8:09 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
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» Cocking via moving the bow.
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» Claw crossbow prototype
by Phil Abrahams Fri Aug 28, 2020 9:20 am

» Stirrups, how heavy? Design help needed
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Aug 18, 2020 2:24 pm

» ash lath and pin-lock crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Aug 11, 2020 2:31 pm

» Finish on lashings
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» Look what the smith sent
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jul 31, 2020 1:35 pm

» Covid 19 and crossbow builders
by kenh Thu Jul 30, 2020 10:22 am

» Crossbow accuracy
by Geezer Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:51 am

» How do you feel about miniature crossbows?
by El Zurdo Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:21 am

» how to Build a non Chinese repeating crossbow?
by Dennis Greenaway Tue Jul 28, 2020 4:05 pm

» Just finished my windlass crossbow!
by Dennis Greenaway Tue Jul 28, 2020 4:01 pm

» Sinew backed crossbow prod tillering. Update and questions.
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jul 28, 2020 2:43 am

» snakeskin not birch bark on composite bows in medieval period
by Cornerstone Mon Jul 27, 2020 3:50 pm

» two axle mechanism makers/accurate plans?
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jul 22, 2020 10:34 am

» Stonebow Buildalong
by banuvatt Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:00 pm

» How to Attach a PVC Prod to a Stock?
by banuvatt Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:22 am

» finally started my first composite bow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 29, 2020 12:40 am

» AMAZING MINI CROSSBOW code name KillCovid-19
by El Zurdo Thu May 21, 2020 3:14 am

» Draw length ash lath
by banuvatt Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:47 am

» Would like to buy or rent a Han Chinese Trigger
by PierreC Thu Apr 23, 2020 2:37 am

» High Draw Weight PVC Crossbow Build
by banuvatt Fri Apr 17, 2020 3:07 pm

» Universal standard Crossbow nut
by Fangbows Tue Apr 14, 2020 11:57 pm

» Making Chinese 240lb Han Crossbow
by banuvatt Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:40 am


    ash lath and pin-lock crossbow

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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Thu Apr 30, 2020 6:39 am

    First topic message reminder :

    Hi everyone, thought I'd post my crossbow build updates here. Plan is for an ash-lath and pin-lock medieval-ish target crossbow
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    Post by banuvatt on Sun May 10, 2020 1:33 pm

    Jute is water resistant, but I'm not sure how resist compared to manila it probably is less. The breaking strength is also less but, I'm sure it's cheaper. It won't be doing any load bearing weight just will probably be dealing with moisture and occasional friction.
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    Post by banuvatt on Tue May 12, 2020 8:38 am

    Are you going to put a bolt clip on the crossbow? I've seen a person use a piece of horn and bend it to shape after steaming it. I figure the bolt clip would make it easier to shoot since you can aim downwards without holding on to the end of the bolt with your thumb.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Tue May 12, 2020 11:50 am

    I'm going to see how effective the pinch-point is at gripping the bolt but I am open to using a horn clip. Only thing is I didn't like the look of black fittings so the bolt rest is now bone and the tiller pivot is hazel, the pinch is antler and so they are all white .
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    Post by banuvatt on Tue May 12, 2020 12:59 pm

    Since you have a bolt rest the track of the crossbow isn't going to have a bolt groove it's just going to be smooth right?
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Tue May 12, 2020 2:41 pm

    No, I have found push pin crossbows with thin strings benefit from dropping the tail of the bolt into a groove so that the string cannot slide under the bolt on release. The medieval bow that inspired this build has a full length bolt groove leading to the bolt rest, maybe to improve accuracy as it is a target bow?
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Tue May 12, 2020 2:44 pm

    Also, I found I couldn't make the pinch deep enough so a clip is very likely as I ended up just carving a groove
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    Post by banuvatt on Tue May 12, 2020 7:06 pm

    Okay that makes much more sense I was having a hard time visualizing a crossbow with a bolt groove also a thin string with no bolt groove. Not to mentioned it's a push pin crossbow so it be virtually impossible to maintain historical accuracy and have a functioning crossbow. You wouldn't have this issue with a roller nut crossbow assuming the string was thick enough. Since the roller nut allows the string to travel in a straight line and also prevents side to side movement of the bolt.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Wed May 13, 2020 4:49 am

    OK, so this is where I am, most of the big stuff is basically there but there is a lot of refining left to do: the spine needs adjusting, the string groove needs tuning, the bridle hole needs finishing, the pin needs to be made, as does a string, the tickler needs a minor re-carve, the whole thing needs a good deal of sanding and a coat or two of something, maybe boiled linseed oil, maybe cut-down varnish? The tiller needs the nocks cut in and lashing on and a set of bolts needs to be fabricated.

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    and yes, it is left-handed and very spindly, but for a 45lb draw I think it will be OK, I'm maybe going to call it "Splinter"
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Wed May 13, 2020 6:53 am

    If the horn is thin enough, it only takes a couple of seconds over a hot flame (like a gas hob) to soften it enough to bend.  Hold it in shape and set it with cold water.

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    Post by banuvatt on Wed May 13, 2020 6:58 am

    I really like the shape it's more extreme than others I seen.
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed May 13, 2020 7:16 am

    This is very minor and solely for aesthetics, But, I'm assuming you are going to use pins to connect the bolt clip to the stock. Have you considered using brass?
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Wed May 13, 2020 9:33 am

    The ones I have seen in photos use a single pin or screw to allow the clip to swing out of theway , I had thought to use a black dome-headed screw, practical and nearly invisible
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed May 13, 2020 9:47 am

    About the bolt clip I had a few questions about it. I want to make one for my crossbow as well but, out of PVC. What's the width of the strip of horn you used? Also did you make it taper towards the front end or is it the constant width throughout the length? If it tapers towards the front end what is the width? Thank you for taking the time to read and respond to my questions.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Wed May 13, 2020 10:16 am

    For most of its length it is a constant 12mm width, I tapered it gradually through the last 1/3 down to 8mm just before the curl at the tip which I sharpened to a point,  not for any reason, just because I thought it looked nice.
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed May 13, 2020 10:26 am

    Okay thank you that was extremely helpful. I know tapering it is mostly for aesthetics reasons as far as I am concern it doesn't have any functionality purposes behind it. It possibly makes the front of the bolt clip more flexible and springy since it's taper. But, that's all I can think of as far I am aware of.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Tue May 19, 2020 6:36 am

    Popped into the village blacksmith and he gave me a 4inch diameter mild steel ring for the stirrup, its cleaned up beautifully,  gonna look lovely
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    Post by banuvatt on Wed May 20, 2020 11:41 am

    Could you send a picture of it? I love hearing about it but, I'm more of a visual person lol.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Thu May 21, 2020 5:30 am

    Spent an hour or two messing about with the bindings, the ring binding will be replaced with leather at some point but it will do for now.
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu May 21, 2020 12:48 pm

    I love how it looks, geeze I was severely underestimated how big the ring would be on the crossbow. I was thinking more of a d loop ring or a smaller version of the ring you are currently using. Then again you did say you were using it as a stirrup not using it as something to hook a gaffe lever too.
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu May 21, 2020 12:48 pm

    I love how it looks, geeze I was severely underestimated how big the ring would be on the crossbow. I was thinking more of a d loop ring or a smaller version of the ring you are currently using. Then again you did say you were using it as a stirrup not using it as something to hook a gaffe lever too.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Thu May 21, 2020 2:20 pm

    Its an inch wider than I would like but it was free!  It is actually very comfortable in use. Also, I thought it would feel heavy but you don't actually notice it
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    Post by banuvatt on Thu May 21, 2020 2:32 pm

    If it was free than who am I to complain? Despite it's large size it's very beautiful. I love the look of hand forged metal on medieval replicas it suits the piece better than if it were a factory made ring that was all uniform.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Fri Jul 03, 2020 3:38 pm

    Not an ash bow anymore, test-shooting revealed a whole bunch of crysals where I think I over-stressed the bow whilst tillering. The replacement lath is roughed out and ready for tillering.  Its going to be an apple-wood lath pin-lock bow by next weekend
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    Post by Geezer on Fri Jul 03, 2020 7:56 pm

    If you can get Bois d' Arc (Bodark) it makes a Very good lath... the only thing better is yew.  Bodark is pretty hard and takes a bit of work.  Also be aware it's toxic (just like yew) That's no real problem when working it by hand, but get a shower and wash your hands before eating dinner.  Geezer.
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    Post by banuvatt on Fri Jul 03, 2020 9:27 pm

    Try fire hardening the belly it should prevent crystals from forming. Backed ipe I think is the best bow wood it would make a fast shooting prod since the wood is so dense. So the prod would be thinner, and narrower than it would normally be with other woods.

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