The Arbalist Guild

Would you like to react to this message? Create an account in a few clicks or log in to continue.

Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

Latest topics

» Troubleshooting
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Oct 01, 2022 3:08 pm

» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm

» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am

» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm

» Low Draw Weight Build
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 12, 2022 3:09 pm

» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
by ora8i Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:13 pm

» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Jul 23, 2022 5:45 am

» Bad Antler
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jun 28, 2022 8:09 am

» best type of horn to use..
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 24, 2022 6:13 am

» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am

» starting a 1400's replica
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Feb 24, 2022 1:26 pm

» 18th century German crossbow reproduction
by Fangbows Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:15 am

» replacement for baleen?
by tghsmith Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:30 am

» Josef alm in English
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:07 pm

» Medieval crossbow finished
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:05 pm

» Trigger mechanisms
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jan 03, 2022 10:23 am

» Finish wooden stock
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:06 am

» finish prod binding
by kenh Tue Nov 30, 2021 5:26 am

» What bolts do you use?
by hullutiedemies Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:43 am


3 posters

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    stoneagebowyer
    stoneagebowyer
    Crossbow Junkie

    I live here!


    Crossbow JunkieI live here!


    Posts : 490
    Join date : 2011-01-12

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by stoneagebowyer Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:40 am

    Perhaps someone can chime in here. I've been discussing the progress of my crossbow over at Primitive Archer's forum, and the discussion has led to the topic of heat treating sears and ticklers.

    Does anyone do this? The method I am using is a 3/8" threaded bolt screwed into the rolling nut, as per Kurt's (Knight's Armoury) build along. He, as far as I can tell, does not heat treat these parts.

    One option is to heat treat / temper using a Mapp torch, which I have in my shop. Another is to use Grade 8 vs. Grade 5 bolts, which are fairly easy to find. Another is to find a hardened threaded bolt, whiich is not easy to find, I think. My local auto parts store doesnt carry them, so I'd have to find a vendor online, probably.

    Besides the sear, the tickler where it engages the sear may need heat treating as well.

    Or, am I worried for no reason? The crossbow will be about 175 lb. draw.

    Thanks,

    Dane
    Todd the archer
    Todd the archer
    Crossbow Junkie

    I live here!


    Crossbow JunkieI live here!


    Posts : 581
    Join date : 2010-02-25
    Age : 60
    Location : sellersville,pa.

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Re: Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by Todd the archer Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:01 am

    Check out the late Robin Allen's website:
    http://www.thecrossbowmansden.com/Triggers.html
    Lots of info there

    Todd
    stoneagebowyer
    stoneagebowyer
    Crossbow Junkie

    I live here!


    Crossbow JunkieI live here!


    Posts : 490
    Join date : 2011-01-12

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Re: Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by stoneagebowyer Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:39 am

    Todd, thanks. Great info!

    Dane
    mac
    mac
    Master Weaponsmith
    Master Weaponsmith


    Posts : 560
    Join date : 2010-12-23
    Location : Near Philly USA

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Re: Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by mac Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:02 pm

    Dane,
    In my experience, the working faces and edges of both the nut insert and the trigger are subject to both wear and deformation if they are not hard.
    I make my nut inserts out of water hardening drill rod. I harden the working face with a torch while holding the insert by the tang so that tang will remain soft enough to pein up. Kasinit works OK for case hardening the working face of the trigger, but making the "nose" of the trigger out of hardenable stuff will give better results. In any case, I draw the temper to a dark straw.
    stoneagebowyer
    stoneagebowyer
    Crossbow Junkie

    I live here!


    Crossbow JunkieI live here!


    Posts : 490
    Join date : 2011-01-12

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Re: Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by stoneagebowyer Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:15 am

    Thanks, Mac.

    Dane
    mac
    mac
    Master Weaponsmith
    Master Weaponsmith


    Posts : 560
    Join date : 2010-12-23
    Location : Near Philly USA

    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Re: Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by mac Fri Jan 28, 2011 1:45 pm

    You're welcome Dane.

    Mac

    Sponsored content


    Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers Empty Re: Heat Treating Sears and Ticklers

    Post by Sponsored content

      Similar topics

      -

      Current date/time is Tue Oct 04, 2022 9:26 pm