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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

» Crossbow Stock
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» Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin
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» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
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» jens sensfelder
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» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
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» Digitar prodsc
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» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm

» Wood Prods
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» Fiberglass H-bows
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» Qin/Han lock drawings
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» stirrup dimensions?
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» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
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4 posters

    Makoto Pat says hello...

    makoto pat
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    Post by makoto pat Fri Feb 17, 2012 7:53 pm

    Hello, I am new here but some of you may know me from other forum where we talk of blades. I am attempting to build my first crossbow with aprts from Alchem, Inc. in my apartment sized kitchen and my dad's woodshop 2 hours away. Mostly with a Dremel in my kitchen. For my tiller I am using reclaimed oak from a barn in Kentucky....with brass and reclaimed walnut and very old cherry (cut and milled in 1919 from Short Mtn.) from Tennessee as accents. This will be my second attempt at the tiller. I was not satisfied with the first one. This time I think I've got it.

    Any and all advice is welcome....and appreciated.

    Thanks for this cool place.
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    Post by 8fingers Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:27 pm

    My first thought is build a 'router table' for your Dremel that you can clamp to your table or counter top. Add a fence that won't drift. The more you can use jigs for the precision stuff the happier you will be.
    Get you trigger geometry figured out before you get too deep into the tiller. Cardboard assisted design, or a model will save headaches if you are not following established plans.
    Lots of good advice here for the best price on the web, ask questions, as specific as you can. Post pictures when you can't figure out the jargon. Keep going, even if its slowly, a little bit every day.
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    Post by 8fingers Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:48 pm



    This is a link to a dremel table, part one


    Last edited by Ivo on Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : embedding video)
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    Post by makoto pat Sat Feb 18, 2012 3:41 am

    I had not even thought of this approach. What I really am struggling with is the rough stirrup and irons. I had some established plans based on photos and such, but unfortunately a nasty computer virus forced me to wipe my hard drive. I actually have a good ideal for the irons I really need to see how to place the/attach the stirrup. That video was awesome.
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    Post by Gnome Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:50 am

    That router table is a pretty good tip! And timely, as I just got a new set of 1/8" shank router bits. I admit I tend to overbuild things, but the only part of that design I'm not keen on is the attachement points for the motor tool- is construction adhesive really going to hold that screw band to the wood long term? I'm definitely building one, after I "Gnomify" the design a bit. "Gnome-proof" might be a more accurate term, I overbuild because I'm hard on my tools and toys!
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    Post by Gnome Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:52 am

    Oh, and welcome Makoto Pat! What is the blade forum you refer to? I've been making swords and knives for decades but just recently got back into crossbows.
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    Post by makoto pat Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:17 am

    The SBG forum is mainly were I dwell. I have been on others, but work/school and all. Gnome, I agree. The concept was what my mind was missing and like many of here I, too, plan to change the design a bit. But you might be surprise what plain basic wood glue will hold.....I still like to a bit of steel. But recently I tried very diligently to free some walnut from some oak that was glued on the end only....it broke and splintered above the glue....I was amazed....open mouthed and sweating like a long-toothed madman. I should probably mention I used hand-powered tools almost exclusively....the electric drill and Dremel are my only exceptions. If I had a hand-powered drill and bits I would use them. By the time I was finished I had forgotten what I want the walnut for to begin with. But I am going to free style this first piece...mostly because that's my way, but also I have limited time and have been waiting for a few months to get my pieces. Now it's Tinkerin' Time!
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    Post by 8fingers Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:14 pm

    I have seen a lot of these style tables and my favorites use a wooden block / clamp set up but over all this video shows such detail you don't have to guess. I'll look for some other plans.
    Like these;http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/tools/dremel_router_shaper_table_v2/index.htm
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    Post by makoto pat Sat Feb 18, 2012 5:18 pm

    Thanks 8fingers.....I appreciate the link and my goggles are on....safety first he says as he prepares to leap from the plane.
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    Post by Guest Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:09 pm

    Hey, a Makoto Pat says hello... 376108 from me too.

    I love dremels too! Me and Ivo were experimenting with them a while back to mill styrofoam trigger boxes to cast in alumnum. Good that you reminded me, hopefully I can find the old camera with the pictures - it didn't gotoo well, but maybe we'll try again. Makoto Pat says hello... 951629

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    Post by Ivo Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:35 pm

    Welcome to the Guild, Pat. Smile Cool thing this internet...makes the world look like such a small place. Never been to that knife forum, I'll check it out some time.

    And Antho...

    Holly shit man...you still remember that?!?! Shocked That's when I spilled hot aluminum on my foot (and pebbles around my foot exploded sending shrapnel and hot ali all over the place)! ...my foot still burns when I think about that. (think I beat the world record for taking off a 14 hole military boot ) Makoto Pat says hello... 738379Makoto Pat says hello... 738379Makoto Pat says hello... 738379 Yeh, for me "safety first" is an understatement..."common sense" is what I need...haha *ouch* Laughing

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