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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:14 pm

» Digitar prodsc
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:42 pm

» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm

» Arab Crossbow
by kenh Thu Jan 05, 2023 8:39 pm

» Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 01, 2023 12:22 pm

» Wood Prods
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm

» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:54 am

» Simplified Löffelhotz speedloader
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 09, 2022 4:05 pm

» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am

» Josef alm in English
by Juniper Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:22 am

» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm

» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am

» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm

» Low Draw Weight Build
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 12, 2022 3:09 pm

» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
by ora8i Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:13 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 24, 2022 6:13 am

» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am


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    Post by kenh Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:10 am

    Yeah... here it is. What I think of as a "carbine" -- not a short pistol prod nor a long full-size prod. This is an 18" x 50 lb 'replacement prod' for commercial crossbow pistols, with a V shaped prod. The tiller is after the fashion of a 16-17th century Malaysian matchlock pistol stock, made from maple with a variety of tropical hardwood accents. The design underwent several obvious changes between start and finish, including the pinlock and becoming a slurbow, but the result isn't too unpleasing, I think. Shoots well - much softer trigger pull than any 50# commercial pistolbow.

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    Post by ferdinand Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:29 am

    Really nice bow! Interesting design! I think some brass accents would look even more beautifull! Nice work!
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    Post by jds6 Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:49 pm

    Nice indeed! Great contrast between the two types of wood.

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    Post by Todd the archer Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:22 pm

    very nice



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    Post by stoneagebowyer Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:45 pm

    It does look great. More details and photos maybe?
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    Post by kenh Wed Jan 30, 2013 3:00 pm

    I'll get some more pix in a day or so. That was the best I could do for "quick and dirty" in the cockpit of my boat/retirement home.

    I set it up to shoot 1/4" diameter unfletched dowel bolts. The original plan was to use those cheap plastic or metal pistol bolts you see all over e-Bay, but the fletching on those is the drawback when I opted to make it a slurbow.

    The slur came about because I kept neglecting to cut the bolt groove (don't have the right kind of tools). The top of the barrel needed to be removeable, so it's held on by two small brass screws at the front, and a plug at the aft end.

    I still need some sort of 'brush' to help center the bolt at the lock end, although the forward motion of the string picks up the butt end, and the 2" long barrel at the front centers the bolt as it exits the weapon.

    The power stroke of the prod is 7". The insert in the handle is a 1.5" diameter lazer cut roundel used to decorate soundholes in some musical instruments (I build mountain dulcimers and a few other small stringed instruments as well)
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    Post by shiloh Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:20 pm

    Kenh,

    That turned out awesome, love the design and wood choices. Bolt grooves are a pain, I`ve set-up router jigs and done it that way, but I find that an x-acto knife and steel straight edge to scribe parallel lines, a 1/4" mortise chisel, and a round rasp work the best, and more fun to boot.

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    Post by kenh Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:43 pm

    I think in future builds I'll make sandwich tillers from 3 pieces, the center 3/16" or whatever of which will be set below the deck top to form the groove. The spaces for the mechanics of the action can also arranged in that area easily by using smaller pieces of the center wood to frame the action area.
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    Post by Taxus Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:00 pm

    It's interesting to see a slurbow build as they don't seem too common
    and your choice of woods work very well together.

    Do you notice much difference in accuracy with the unfletched bolts compared to those that have them?
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    Post by kenh Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:34 am

    Haven't really had a chance to do a lot of accuracy testing yet. But I'm grouping about 4" at 20 ft with no sights at all so that's not too bad. Certainly no worse than the commercial crossbow pistol I have.
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    Post by OverlyComplicatedGag Sun Mar 10, 2013 4:58 am

    Cool little project. Would one be able to make passable bolts out of hardwood dowels?
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    Post by Gnome Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:12 am

    kenh wrote:I think in future builds I'll make sandwich tillers from 3 pieces, the center 3/16" or whatever of which will be set below the deck top to form the groove. The spaces for the mechanics of the action can also arranged in that area easily by using smaller pieces of the center wood to frame the action area.
    Kenh, that's exactly how I cut the laminate sections for my current project. I should have read this thread more closely, instead of just ogling the photos, sounds like we were dealing with some similar issues.
    BTW, I've done bolt grooves a few different ways, practically a new way with every build. If I'm just using the stock wood for the surface, i.e. not adding a brass track or anything, I prefer doing it slowly by hand with various grades of sandpaper wrapped around dowels versus using routers or chisels or anything else. Working slowly by eye lets me make corrections on the fly and keep things straight and level, whereas one slip with a chisel or router on that very important area of the weapon and I'm starting over with a new chunk of wood!
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    Post by kenh Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:19 am

    OCG - that's exactly how I make bolts - dowel with weighted heads (standard arrow points).

    Gnome - yeah I really like the sandwich tiller idea. I can see where it's especially useful when you have a complicated trigger mechanism. That being said, my current full-size build is a one-piece prod with the groove lightly chiseled then sanded straight and smooth. After that it'll be back to pistolbows and sandwiched tillers - may try your stacked prods. BTW, I'm in awe of your most current build!

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