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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
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» 4 fletch question
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» fix bolts
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» Finish on lashings
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» how to Build a non Chinese repeating crossbow?
by c sitas Tue Nov 17, 2020 1:05 pm

» Fascinating reconstruction
by drawknife Sat Oct 24, 2020 3:54 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
by sydney1942 Wed Sep 02, 2020 3:03 pm

» Cocking via moving the bow.
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» Claw crossbow prototype
by Phil Abrahams Fri Aug 28, 2020 9:20 am


    Drum brake forge

    ZigiMan
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    Drum brake forge Empty Drum brake forge

    Post by ZigiMan Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:43 pm

    This is a sub-project of my crossbow project. I needed a way to forge parts for my crossbow so i built this forge.
    Any comments, advices and questions are welcome.

    Drum brake forge 2013-014

    Drum brake forge 2013-015

    Drum brake forge 2013-016

    Drum brake forge 2013-017


    Last edited by ZigiMan on Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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    Post by ZigiMan Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:53 pm

    Drum brake forge 2013-019

    Drum brake forge 2013-021

    Drum brake forge 2013-022

    Drum brake forge 2013-024

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    Post by jds6 Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:16 am

    ZigiMan

    Nice forge! I too built a forge from a brake drum. Works like a champ.
    FYI , if the hair dryer you are using does not have a cool setting, you might need to remove the heating element. It gets pretty hot and will melt the hair dryer! Learned the hard way. I use a small shop vac for my air supply, with a ball valve so I can regulate the amount of air flow.
    I noticed from your picture it looks your burning hard wood charcoal . Be careful, the sparks can start a fire. Check on eBay, there is great coal you can purchase fairly cheap.
    Great job, and happy forging!!!

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    Post by panne Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:22 am

    that's a nice forge. for folks just needing to forge a few parts, they can attach a large tin can with a hole cut in the side and holes poked into the bottom to a section of stove pipe. you can either stand the pipe up on a fire safe surface or suspend it between two trees or post. if it doesn't get hot enough simple add more stove pipe.

    for mine i used the stove pipe idea, but added a front tube/burn chamber and replaced the stove pipe with oil drilling pipe. i added a trimmed down 6" damper to control the air flow. no blower is needed since it is a rocket stove.
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    Post by jds6 Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:26 am

    Nice panne, would like to see pictures of the entire forge. How about some details on how you constructed it also!
    Very nice indeed!

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    Post by panne Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:16 pm

    i'll post the sucky forge details in a separate thread. due to steel beating being highly addictive, i'd have to say most people won't be satisfied with a small rocket style like mine. the forced air brake drum design allows you to make much larger and complex projects.
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    Post by ferdinand Fri Feb 15, 2013 9:17 am

    Planning to make a forge to! But i am a bit restricted by the neighbours. Dont want to piss of everyone! Well, we will see. Nice work on that brake disc forge!
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    Post by stoneagebowyer Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:57 pm

    I really like this forge. Something I too want to do is learn smithing, but I too have issues with neighbors, and no nice back yard to play in.
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    Post by ZigiMan Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:26 am

    Thanks everyone :-)

    @jds6 - Thanks for the feedback - the hair dryer doesn't have cool setting so after a while it's stops working and return to function after it cools down. I plan to disconnect the heat unit since it not necessary. But I might upgrade it into vacuum cleaner. Nice tip for the ball valve, I might use it. And also the coal looks like a good advice.

    @panne - that's a nice forge you built, very innovative!
    panne wrote:...due to steel beating being highly addictive...
    I totally agree! Smile

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    Post by ZigiMan Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:40 am

    I added a little improvement to the forge - fast and easy way to turn on and off the hair dryer. I built a jig from a light switch that enable me to control the dryer by foot.

    Drum brake forge 2013-031
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    Post by ZigiMan Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:43 pm

    Some new improvements:
    Bought coals which produce more heat without sparks (as jds6 advised me).

    Drum brake forge 2013-065

    Since the drum brake I have has a shallow hole I wanted something deeper. Took used fire extinguisher and cut of the head (the handle and spout) and cut it again, a little bit down from the top:

    Drum brake forge 2013-066

    Drum brake forge 2013-067

    And welded it to a plumbing connector.
    Here is the forge in action:

    Drum brake forge 2013-068

    So now it should be called: "Fire extinguisher forge" Very Happy
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    Post by ferdinand Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:54 pm

    Looks great! Congrats! Question for u and the others: does your cole smoke and smell a lot to? I fired it up with rock cole for the first time and it stinks like hell!!! Any good advice???
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    Post by ZigiMan Wed Apr 17, 2013 3:18 pm

    Nope... My coal doesn't smell bad...
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    Post by kenh Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:48 pm

    Anthracite shouldn't smell bad, but some kinds of bituminous certainly can.
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    Post by ferdinand Thu Apr 18, 2013 5:48 am

    kenh wrote:Anthracite shouldn't smell bad, but some kinds of bituminous certainly can.

    So the quality might be the issue. I wasnt aware it could differ that much. A friend of mine works at the harbour moving cole from a ship to trains. I asked him to bring me some, i thought that would work fine. It burns great but is smells really bitumonous indeed, thick yellow smoke etc. I can throw those away i guess. Anthracite is a thing we do have at work (Steel-mill). I might be able to get me some of that, just have to figure out which quality that is i guess. Thanks Ken, i should have done my homework a bit better i guess....
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    Post by jds6 Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:44 am

    Greetings all
    When selecting a coal for the forge, you want to find a good smithing coal. This is a high quality bituminous coal. It is basically free from ash, sulfur, and other impurities as possible. The constituents of the coal should be as close as follows:
    Sulfur - Not over 1%
    Ash- Not over 7%
    Carbon- Not less than 70%
    Moisture- Not over 12%
    It is hard to find smithing coal to these constituents, but there are places that come really close.
    By the way, nice forge Zigiman!
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    Post by ZigiMan Thu Apr 18, 2013 2:46 pm

    Thanks jds6!

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