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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Troubleshooting
by Cscott Tue Nov 15, 2022 11:55 am

» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
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» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
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» Josef alm in English
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» Qin/Han lock drawings
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» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
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» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm

» Low Draw Weight Build
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 12, 2022 3:09 pm

» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
by ora8i Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:13 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 24, 2022 6:13 am

» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am

» starting a 1400's replica
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Feb 24, 2022 1:26 pm

» 18th century German crossbow reproduction
by Fangbows Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:15 am

» replacement for baleen?
by tghsmith Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:30 am

» Medieval crossbow finished
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:05 pm

» Trigger mechanisms
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jan 03, 2022 10:23 am

» Finish wooden stock
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:06 am

3 posters

    sucky forge details

    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
    I'm new to crossbows

    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows

    Posts : 46
    Join date : 2012-10-21
    Location : abbeville, la

    sucky forge details Empty sucky forge details

    Post by panne Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:22 pm

    it's made from 4.5" drill pipe. the front section is about 20" and the
    riser is about 4', welded together at 90 degrees. i trimmed a 6" damper
    plate used for woodstoves and bolted it together in the top of the
    riser. it worked well with only one 5' section of stove pipe, but heated
    much faster when i added another 5' section. at over 10' i had to add
    some guy wires and also couldn't leave it assembled since a good wind
    gust would blow it over. the chimney cap is an aluminum hot water heater
    vent cap. i welded two 1/2" bolts to the bottom and used them to attach
    the heat bent leaf springs leftover from a suspension upgrade on my
    chevy astro camper conversion.

    if i were to do it over i would
    use a 6"-8" pipe, add a clean out at the rear and a fire grate. i'd
    leave the chimney at 4.5"-6". a 6" riser would eliminate the need to
    refabricate the damper and allow more room for larger pieces. the upper
    heavy steel riser should also be completely replaced with stove pipe.
    the thinner the chimney metal the faster and hotter it will get. the
    heavier steel chimney takes longer to heat up making it harder to light.

    i no longer own this one and have another rocket stove i'm
    tinkering with that would work better for forging. the 4.5" diameter
    pipe is too small to heat and bend a stirrup, unless you could manage to
    make all your bends before it cools. i'll try to take a few pictures of
    it, because it's easier to build and more functional. it is basically a stack of bricks
    with a 5' section of 8" double wall chimney sitting on top. eventually it will become the business end of a thermal mass rocket heater.

    sucky forge details DSC01081
    sucky forge details DSC01082
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?

    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 197
    Join date : 2011-10-18
    Age : 60
    Location : Dallas,TX

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    Post by jds6 Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:38 pm

    Thanks for the details, looking forward to the photos

    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1194
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 74
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

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    Post by Geezer Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:30 pm

    With a stack that high, you oughta get a great draft. Back in the 1890's, warships had high stacks like that. They developed a great draft until somebody put a few shell-splinters through the middle... then fuel economy went to hell. As long as you avoid a shelling by the Italian navy, you're probably in good shape.
    Geezer... the battleship guy.
    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
    I'm new to crossbows

    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows

    Posts : 46
    Join date : 2012-10-21
    Location : abbeville, la

    sucky forge details Empty Re: sucky forge details

    Post by panne Fri Feb 15, 2013 6:41 am

    geezer, with a 10' stack it almost draws too much. on smaller parts, i had to pay close attention because it could overheat them pretty fast. on larger projects it heated them pretty quick, but the burn chamber was a bit small to work in. i ended up trading it with a friend who uses it for heating a small workshop. most of the materials came from the dumpster, so it was a no brainer to swap it for his 1966 4 hp mcculloch outboard.

    on another note, i noticed the mention of using charcoal. for those that are new to forging it needs to be clarified that it needs to be hardwood charcoal and not the commercially available briquettes used for grilling. cooking briquettes have a high sulfur content that can weaken the steel. if you don't have charcoal available you can make your own from hardwood using a metal container, to burn it in oxygen starved conditions, until it stops off gassing.

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