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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Troubleshooting
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» Qin/Han lock drawings
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» Low Draw Weight Build
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» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
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» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
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» Bad Antler
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» best type of horn to use..
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» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am

» starting a 1400's replica
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Feb 24, 2022 1:26 pm

» 18th century German crossbow reproduction
by Fangbows Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:15 am

» replacement for baleen?
by tghsmith Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:30 am

» Josef alm in English
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:07 pm

» Medieval crossbow finished
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:05 pm

» Trigger mechanisms
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jan 03, 2022 10:23 am

» Finish wooden stock
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:06 am

» finish prod binding
by kenh Tue Nov 30, 2021 5:26 am

» What bolts do you use?
by hullutiedemies Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:43 am


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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:46 pm

    Slurbow finished ,a new project on the way: A 19th century style,Belgium hunting crossbow. I'll use two 150# fibreglass prods.The original one had steel bow around 400# but only 6" power stroke and something like 200/250 fps. Mine will be 9 1/2" power stroke for bit more then 300#, the result should be interesting.
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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:00 pm

    The different component, (crude)double prod, nut trigger and stetcher. 
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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:02 pm

    the prods on the scale.
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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:03 pm

    weight.
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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:04 pm

    Stetcher.
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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:06 pm

    nut (derlin).
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    Post by jeep Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:07 pm

    steel insert.
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    Post by Todd the archer Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:45 pm

    Very interesting, I like the double prod. I am curious as to see how the nut holds up as well to see if you can trip the trigger with that much strain on the nut.

    I will be watching this one!

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    Post by jeep Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:15 am

    I got exactly the same questioning. Firstly, the delrin nut, I am not very sure, but it is so pretty. I have a spare one of brass. For the trigger will see !!! For the coking device I would like a goat foot but the draw length maybe to long in this case I'll choose a coking lever.
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    Post by septua Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:55 am

    I am making a double set trigger and appreciate some experienced advice. Does the “impacter” of the dst need to retract slightly after firing in order to allow sear’s spring to reset it? In other words does it need some free space where its momentum alone trips the sear?
     
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    Post by Todd the archer Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:58 pm

    Hi Tom, in a word, yes. The "impacter" is like the hammer on a firearm. You want to be able to cock the crossbow without setting the trigger first. This acts as a safety and won't release until you set the "hammer" first.

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    Post by septua Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:43 pm

    Thanks Todd
     
    I brought this up after seeing the nicely done dst at post#5. The one in the post has a leaf spring but I won’t have room, it will be a extention coil. I understand the safety aspect but am concerned about the sear (impacted component) being reset after firing if the impactor is in the up position. This is my second build and will also have an auto safety like the first one. My auto safety design blocks the sear and also visually shows this happening as I lever back the string with a “wippe”.
     
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    Post by jeep Mon Nov 04, 2013 11:31 am

    Mortising work it is not what I prefer!Hunting crossbow 19th century style Img_0718
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    Post by Todd the archer Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:33 pm

    Hah! you have it easy using a split stock design.  When I did mine the stock was one solid piece.

    Keep up the good work!

     Did you fabricate the set trigger mechanism yourself? I cheated on mine and bought one from a black powder rifle supply house.


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    Post by jeep Tue Nov 05, 2013 3:33 am

    Thank for the comments. I choose this way because I find it  convenient to adjust the different axes of the trigger system  and also due to not very tick sherry wood  I had . I do fabricate the double set trigger, it was for  other project  and I finally recycle it for this one. But like you I was about to order one from "picatonica rivers" but due to delays I use mine. We order prods from commercial company, WY not triggers? Anyway, like you,I know how to build it and by this way you save a lot of efforts and time...
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    Post by chaz Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:56 am

    Jeep,

    Your set trigger design is very interesting including the trigger gaurd design ........ can't wait to see the completed  product ......... beautiful

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    Post by jeep Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:11 am

    Work going on smoothly. Set trigger seem to be well adjusted. Now I will position the bow. I try to follow my rule in crossbow building. I work step by step, I hardly start by the stock or tiller. First I find, build or buy the bow. What is the interest to have a car without engine? all of the setting depend of it.
    Second the trigger,then the question, how to span and with what. Here it will be a goat foot . I use a very crude tiller to position everything and try the system. No need to waste time to make a beautiful, and fancy tiller before to be sure that the bow or the trigger will not fail.. The beauty contest will be for the end. Of course this is my very personal opinion, but I find it convenient not to be disappointed by unsuccessful attempt. My workshop is full of aborted project and what?
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    Post by jeep Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:22 am

    I also start the goat foot lever, but for better result I needed a forge. I found this a good occasion to build mine. I use the cheapest, the most easy building system for a convenient result. I choose the "side draft". Here some pictures. I put it on a stand but if you want even more cheap you dig a hole on the soil. I have seen this used in Africa, Asia and it work pretty well, but I try to spare my back! I use my compressor for the air with low pressure. 
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    Post by jeep Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:23 am

    ;;Hunting crossbow 19th century style Img_0812
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    Post by jeep Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:24 am

    Of course it is hight temperature bricks.
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    Post by chaz Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:30 am

    Nice progress

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    Post by Rizzar Sun Nov 10, 2013 2:13 pm

    Hey Jeep, looks cool.

    But I´d suggest using a hair dryer or better a heatgun for more constant and adjustable airflow.

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    Post by Hotspur Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:31 pm

    I like your build philosophy.
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    Post by jeep Thu Nov 14, 2013 2:23 am

    The bench test tiller with the different component. Now the headache , The fine adjustment of all
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    Post by jeep Thu Nov 14, 2013 2:25 am

    bow clamp

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