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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

» Crossbow Stock
by kenh Tue Oct 31, 2023 6:19 am

» Colletiere a Charavines continuing experiment
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Oct 07, 2023 5:36 am

» Cocking - how
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Aug 03, 2023 4:24 am

» Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Apr 26, 2023 1:10 am

» Arab Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Apr 25, 2023 7:57 am

» prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone?
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Mar 20, 2023 5:54 am

» flexible string
by jasper1978 Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:25 am

» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Mar 19, 2023 7:44 am

» jens sensfelder
by jasper1978 Wed Mar 08, 2023 11:58 pm

» 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high.
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Mar 05, 2023 2:53 pm

» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:14 pm

» Digitar prodsc
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:42 pm

» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm

» Wood Prods
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm

» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:54 am

» Simplified Löffelhotz speedloader
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 09, 2022 4:05 pm

» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am

» Josef alm in English
by Juniper Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:22 am

» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm

» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am

» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm


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    Post by Cellectronic Mon Jan 19, 2015 6:34 am

    Hi All, I am in the process of building my own crossbow and wondering to myself which is the best trigger system to build.
    I would like to keep it fairly simple but it does need to be reliable and have a safety.
    Any input would be much appreciated.
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    Post by phuphuphnik Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:18 am

    You start oil threads on car forums don't you.

    I prefer single stage lever and roller, though I have been branching out. Poke around the forum for many safety designs. There are a couple easy ones, like a spring hinge that holds the lever in place. To fire you swing the hinge down. Another is a pin half filed down that rotates. when the round is against the lever it doesn't move, when the flat is it moves. Multi stage locks can have variations on the "prevent a lever from moving" theme.
    Hope that gets you started.
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    Post by kenh Mon Jan 19, 2015 1:24 pm

    There is no "Best".  There is just what you like to build or buy.  My personal favorite to build is the Skane lock sometimes called a Pin Lock.  Simple vertical dowel and tickler style lever.  Safety is a simple bar between the tickler and the bottom of the tiller.
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    Post by Gnome Tue Jan 20, 2015 7:46 am

    I have yet to build a Skane type lock, but I have a few ideas knocking around. Ken, the safety you describe will keep the lever locked safely, but with that type of release I'm concerned with the chance of the string slipping off the notch without a push from the release mechanism- I guess I'm thinking that the smoother the action of the string sliding off the notch, by wear or by design, the easier the potential for a misfire.
    I could be perseverating on a non-issue, since I don't yet have practical experience with a pin lock, but I was thinking of a safety in the form of a sort of sliding nubber- a block that serves as a bolt clip but also slides back to block the string in the notch. Leave it to me to take the simplest, most elegant mechanism and over engineer it beyond recognition!
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    Post by kenh Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:45 am

    "Anything worth doing is worth over-doing" as a friend of mine once said.   Jam

    The notch on my Skane Lock is 12mm or 13mm deep, so the chance of 'slippage' is pretty small unless one foolishly does not seat the string all the way down.  Although in the photo it looks as if the face of that notch angles forward, in reality it is square and plumb.  The dark wood is a piece of Lignum Vitae, one of the hardest woods in the world, to create the face of the action.  That hard bearing surface prevents string wear yet provides a smooth surface for the string to be pushed up.  

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    Post by Cellectronic Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:58 pm

    Thanks for your replies guys.
    I am about to start making my trigger mech, although I have not 100% decided which one to build.
    Reason being I need to know, of the two types of cord release (ie the nut or the one which looks like a fork) can both these be used with notched or un-notched arrows ?
    I read somewhere that notched arrows can be a pain because of having to line up the notch perfectly and if not done dry fire can be a problem.
    I like the type of mech that has the fork type release but can this be used with an un notched arrow?

    Hope this makes sense to you guys ! this is my first crossbow build and I have never even handled one before.I  have wanted to build one since about 15 years old and am now 50.
    Thanks all.
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    Post by kenh Wed Jan 21, 2015 5:52 pm

    MOST crossbow actions, I would say, do not work with conventional archery arrows with nocks on the tail end.  Crossbow bolts normally have squared off ends.  Normally crossbow bolts are much short and larger in diameter than arrows.

    Not sure what you mean by an action that "has a fork type release" or "looks like a fork".  The roller nut action itself has a "fork" cut out of the body of the cylinder, which extends above the crossbow deck to catch the string as well as hold the butt of the bolt in place.

    I only know of one crossbow action, developed by Nick Tomihama, the Backyard Bowyer, which is designed to use regular notched arrows.

    Post a picture of this "fork" action, if you would, so we know what you mean.
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    Post by SteelTherapy Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:17 am

    Here is the trigger design that I am planning to use.  If it works as planned it will have an automatic safety.  It also has an anti-dryfire mechanism.  

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    Post by kenh Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:42 am

    SteelTherapy -- saw that in your other post.  Looks really nice.  Nice and complicated Shocked  Just the sort of therapy a metal-bender needs  Very Happy Very Happy  Now hurry up and build it so we all can see if it works!
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    Post by Hermit Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:32 am

    Agreed Ken,needs full machine shop facilities,tool and die maker skills,and completely repudiates the KISS principle.
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    Post by c sitas Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:58 am

    Aw, com on guys. They still make hacksaws and files. Also try one of the diamond tile cutting hack saw blades . If you take your time you can cut out circles. Take care as they make a sligthly wider cut. Also on ebay you can get cheap jewelers saws  and blades . They'll cut circles in most materials and, I mean tiny . Just take your time and don't force it.I use these to hand cut repair teeth for clock gears.Even with a shop ,"take your time".`
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:49 am

    Look what ali j was able to do with a grinder and drill press.
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    Post by kenh Sun Feb 01, 2015 1:52 pm

    Nothing wrong with what SteelTherapy wants to make.  Just a WHOLE LOT more work than I want to go to.  That takes the fun out of things, for me.  For him, and others that's the fun.  Different strokes, as they say.
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    Post by Vince Fri Feb 13, 2015 10:27 am

    Any place to find more pictures of the Skane Lock--not sure I am ready for the complex trigger.
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    Trigger Mech Empty simple skane crossbow

    Post by hoopslaboratories Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:38 pm

    [url=Trigger Mech Skane-11
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    Post by kenh Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:13 pm

    We have a Search Function here that will help you find a LOT of stuff, if you use it.

    Here's the Build-It I did about the Skane Lock aka Pin Lock bow that you see in my Avatar picture:
    https://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t945-loose-laminate-pinlock-build?highlight=pinlock

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