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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 10, 2024 3:16 pm

» Colletiere a Charavines continuing experiment
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» What you building?
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» prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone?
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Mar 20, 2023 5:54 am

» flexible string
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» jens sensfelder
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» 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high.
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» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:14 pm

» Digitar prodsc
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:42 pm

» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm

» Wood Prods
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm

» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:54 am

» Simplified Löffelhotz speedloader
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» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
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» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am

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» Qin/Han lock drawings
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» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am


4 posters

    First-ever crossbow, trying a pin and lever lock

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    seckshun
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    Post by seckshun Tue Jun 23, 2015 6:38 am

    I've been unable to find a resource that tells me how the prods should be canted (to figure out where the bowstring would be, if it needs to be angled lower than one would with a nut).
    Can anyone help? I'm a perfect amateur at crossbow-making.
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    Post by Geezer Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:43 am

    Geezer here, concerning prod angle and pushpin locks.  It really depends on prod shape and how how you're mounting it.  If you use one of the standard metal prods thru Alchem, Slowbows or Darkwood Armory, I recommending setting the top of the prod about 3/8 (9mm) below the top of the stock and either mounting it square (no forward pitch)or at most @ 5 degree forward pitch.  That should get you a tiny bit of down-pressure on the string. It doesn't really matter much whether you use a push-pin/notch lock or a roller lock. A tiny bit of down-pressure on the string will cost a little power, but it makes your bow quieter, and will reduce the chance of string- hop over the bolt's butt at release.  Of course mounting a string-snubber over the lock will also help greatly, but that's another question entirely.  Have fun stormin' da castle. Geezer.
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    Post by seckshun Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:56 am

    Thank you very much! That was extremely helpful.
    I'm going to attempt to make my own wooden prods, since the goal I set out with was "use as much of this oak tree I've cut down as Possible", we'll see how that turns out.
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    Post by c sitas Sat Jun 27, 2015 7:59 pm

    Hello Seckshun;   I'll pass an experience I just had with my first  push pin lock. I cut the front edge, " that's the edge that holds the string" at a perfect 90 degrees.I made the cut exactly 1/2" deep. Shot it twice. The third time I cocked it I was just setting the arrow  down. It went off by itself. This is only about a 100 pd. bow.To fix this ,I just filed the notch so that the bottom of the cut moved more forward. In other words the notch now has a very slight hook to the rear on it. I have over fifty shots on it now  and no problems.It doesn't take any more trigger pressure to fire either.I'll tell you one thing for sure --- never get careless or trust anything mechanical.I have had first run trails go bad before, it never ceases to scare the hell out of me. Just pay close attention.
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    Post by Geezer Sat Jun 27, 2015 9:01 pm

    Yes, cutting a little bit of a hollow to hold the string on a notch-bow is a good idea. Too much hollow will indeed increase your trigger-pull substantially, but a tiny bit of hollow, smoothed out well should give you increased security with no appreciable increase in trigger-pull.
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    Post by c sitas Sun Jun 28, 2015 6:36 am

    Geezer; You know ,I'm thinking that even though I thought I had a perfect cut on that notch it wasn't. I made a tempoary catch for the string and watched it creep up and finally go off. Just one of those things, and like I said---always be on guard and careful. And  for the new fellows=--- never trust a safety.
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    Post by Onager Lovac Tue Jun 30, 2015 4:47 pm

    The first crossbow i built had a hole nd peg style trigger and it went off by itself very often, the bow had a draw weight of 125 pounds and despite this it was a little bit hard to shoot, i had to really grip the trigger, not that much but still, what poundage will your crossbow have?
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    Post by c sitas Tue Jun 30, 2015 5:19 pm

    Onager; Mine has about the same pull weight as you mention.I cured my dryfire by cutting the slant or hollow as mention above. Since I done that , I've had no more troubles, BUT I am not stupid enough to trust it totally.For that matter, I NEVER trust any bow or gun period.
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    Post by Onager Lovac Wed Jul 01, 2015 3:34 pm

    hey c sitas, i try to treat my crossbow with respect, but some times i just shoot it like it was a toy, i feel like some day i will loose my fingers x, anyway, have you shot your crossbow often? and is there any wear on the notch for the string?.
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    Post by c sitas Wed Jul 01, 2015 5:45 pm

    Onager; I have about 200 shots on this bow. So far no troubles. The serving is jusy barely starting to fray,but for me that's no problem . I can make a new one in about 30 minutes. The staock and pin look as though they have never been used yet. I'm sure that will change soon also.I can say , that I like a regular metal trigger better though. The long travel is not really helping my accuracy.I'm jumpy when it comes to long pull triggers.I been cocking this bow with a whippie and I love it compared to a winch.

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