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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Troubleshooting
by Cscott Tue Nov 15, 2022 11:55 am

» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am

» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am

» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am

» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
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» Josef alm in English
by Juniper Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:22 am

» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm

» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm

» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am

» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 13, 2022 3:22 pm

» Low Draw Weight Build
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 12, 2022 3:09 pm

» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
by ora8i Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:13 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 24, 2022 6:13 am

» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am

» starting a 1400's replica
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Feb 24, 2022 1:26 pm

» 18th century German crossbow reproduction
by Fangbows Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:15 am

» replacement for baleen?
by tghsmith Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:30 am

» Medieval crossbow finished
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:05 pm

» Trigger mechanisms
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jan 03, 2022 10:23 am

» Finish wooden stock
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:06 am


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    Post by Cscott Sun Oct 09, 2016 4:52 pm

    Hello all! after much lurking and research in preparation for my first crossbow build, i decided to register and introduce myself! 

    First, a little about me. I work as a blacksmith/ whitesmith and many other things at my job restoring and reproducing 17th century hardware. As a hobby in my spare time i am also a bladesmith. I am a fast learner, and good with my hands, which has allowed me to pick up new skills very readily. I have never had any official training besides just "doing it" and research. 

    A few months ago i saw a mini 4" crossbow online and said, "hey thats cool.. i bet i can do that." So i did, and now.. now i want to build a medieval styled full size bow. 

    I picked up a 3x3x3 red oak board at Lowes, and after much research i started on it this past Friday. I am planning on making a crossbow at around a 200 + lb draw, as i want to take it out hunting eventually. So far I have the roller nut and its reinforced socket built and set almost flush into the red oak post. I also have the trigger lever slot drilled, the lever set in place and tested the whole thing for functionality. I need to mill the slot for the bolt to rest in and i may trim the sides back so the tiller is not so wide. After that, i plan on purchasing the prod and bow irons. I could make them, but i figured for my first crossbow i would rather be safe than sorry, and get it professionally done. On that note, I was planning on ordering the parts from alchem, are they still in business?

    Sorry for such a large introduction, I hope to learn a lot from everyone here as i progress with this project! Hope you all have a good evening. I shall finish this up with the few pictures i have so far.

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    Post by kenh Mon Oct 10, 2016 6:16 am

    Welcome to our wacky world!

    Great looking beginning.  Is that roller nut assembly milled from aluminum?  I've heard there can be problems with aluminum 'sticking'.  You want want to Search here and see what has been written.

    I have to say I admire the heck out of any metalworker... just not something I ever had the opportunity to learn.  I'm a woodworker, myself.

    AFAIK, Alchem is still in business -- slow but still in business.

    Certainly that 3x3 can be shaped to reduce half the mass, at least, while retaining all the needed strength.
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    Post by Cscott Mon Oct 10, 2016 7:06 am

    It is entirely mild steel actually. I basically followed the guidelines on the wiki, then milled the mug welds off nice and clean. I have been debating on switching out the mild steel nut for a delrin one. What I will probably do is make one of delrin and test the both out when this thing is completed. 

    And thank you! I admire all woodworkers, working with a chisel scares me. After getting used to working steel wood seems to move entirely too easily.
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    Post by Onager Lovac Mon Oct 10, 2016 3:21 pm

    Thank God, people can join again!!
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    Post by Onager Lovac Mon Oct 10, 2016 5:20 pm

    Yo Cscott if you made a tiny crossbow show us, by the way dont be afraid of using a chisel its easier than you think.New member here!  310
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    Post by Onager Lovac Mon Oct 10, 2016 5:21 pm

    Oh, and welcome to the forum.
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    Post by Xamllew Tue Oct 11, 2016 6:36 am

    Welcome. Your work looks very promising so far, can't wait to see how it goes.
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    Post by Cscott Tue Mar 21, 2017 3:11 pm

    Hello all! I finally received my prod from alchem, so I am now ready to continue this project. Before I do so however, I have a question. I just now realized that since I used 2.5 x 2.5 square oak, once I cut my slot for the prod I will only have 3/8" of wood remaining above and below the prod. Is this going to be a safety issue?
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    Post by Onager Lovac Tue Mar 21, 2017 7:53 pm

    Go for it man!.
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    Post by Geezer Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:31 pm

    3/8 in. top and bottom should be just fine.  That's what I use.  Geezer.
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    Post by Cscott Sat Mar 25, 2017 12:26 pm

    So I have some work done! The wood has been cut and shaped, and I am now fitting the prod to its space. 

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    I have also read somewhere that it may be a good idea to put a reinforcing screw or bolt to protect against the bow irons splitting the tiller. Is this just a large screw or carriage bolt run up from the bottom behind the wedges?
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    Post by Geezer Sat Mar 25, 2017 12:33 pm

    Most period bows with bow irons had a rivet between the prod and bow irons (about halfway) from bottom to top. I use a lag bolt for that purpose, being careful to avoid having it show at the top.  Period Rivets did show at the top.  Geezer
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    Post by Cscott Sat Mar 25, 2017 12:41 pm

    Ok, so I will thread a bolt in there next time I work on this. Thank you for the quick response!
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    Post by Cscott Sun Mar 26, 2017 5:25 am

    So I was able to work on this most of yesterday afternoon! Here is where we are currently.

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    This prod is the heaviest weight that alchem offers, so my next step is to make a goats foot. I couldn't find any guides for making one, so I'm just going to be going off of pictures. Does anyone have any advice or other useful information that could save me some wasted time and effort? I am really itching to shoot this thing!
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    Post by Geezer Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:17 am

    A goat's foot?  There's quite a good pattern in Payne Gallwey's " Book of the Crossbow". (originally published as "The Crossbow, medieval and modrn."
      Also, you might want to send an enquiry to Darkwood Armory.  They sell some crossbow parts and have been known to make gafas/goatsfeet or parts thereof.  By the way, your work looks very nice.  I particularly appreciate the correct 'plough' trigger. Geezer.
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    Post by Cscott Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:26 am

    Why thank you! I actually work as a blacksmith making and restoring antique17- 18th century hardware. So I just forged it until it looked good to my eye.

     Edit: I just now realized I already posted that info.. 6 months ago. My bad

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    Post by Cscott Tue Mar 28, 2017 12:50 pm

    I was looking at the bow today on my lunch break, aand am I correct in assuming I will need to install side plates to this bow since I am planning on using a goats foot lever? The prod should be about 200lb draw
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    Post by Geezer Tue Mar 28, 2017 3:10 pm

    You have a fullly mortised lock, with no cutting through either side, so your stock should be pretty secure to begin with. However, I've never seen a stock in this pattern (mid-to late 15th century German) that didn't have some sort of lockplate, so why not be safer than sorry? Geezer.
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    Post by Cscott Tue Mar 28, 2017 4:53 pm

    So is 1/8th of an in substantial enough considering your previously mentioned points?

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    Tomorrow I need to clean up the hooks and connect them, then mount the handle. Once that is done I need to make my plates and install the pin for the goats foot.
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    Post by Cscott Tue Apr 04, 2017 6:00 am

    So she shoots! The bolts are not stabilizing though, the tail end is kicking around in a circle. I need to make another 1/2 bolt slightly longer, and a few at 3/8ths and see what happens. The broadhead, interestingly enough, just goes straight down after leaving the bow, despite the head being lighter than the bodkins.
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    Post by Geezer Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:52 am

    If your bolts are whirligigging or yawing, there are two possibilities: either your fletching is off or you are not getting a clean push with your prod.  The prod might be a bit off center or crooked in its mounting (check with a carpenter's square) or alternatively, you might be pulling the string off center.  One of those should take care of your bad flight.  Geezer.
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    Post by c sitas Tue Apr 04, 2017 8:04 am

    Cscott, I noticed that you mentioned your broadheads fly different . If they are a fixed design they most surely will. You have to remember that you have steerage on both ends. The blades will grab air ,just like your feathers do. A common way around this  is to use what is called a mechcanical head, where the blades fold up, and open upon impact.These cause awesome damage, but are rather expensive.These will fly like a target point.
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    Post by Cscott Thu Apr 06, 2017 6:00 am

    So a question about broadheads,should they be mounted on the same plane as the fetching?Or opposite?
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    Post by c sitas Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:49 am

    hello C scott, I've been shooting and hunting for over fifty years. Just recently with the crossbow ,cause I like making them. I would use a postition that gives you the best clearance on your stock. I've never seen an  advantage one way or another.I will say the mechanical heads I mentioned do fly just like your target points cause, when they are folded,they pretty much are a target point. A word of caution on them though.They are not a cure all,you need a heavy fast shaft to make them open properly. You need the kenetic energy  and shorter shots.

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