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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

» Crossbow Stock
by kenh Tue Oct 31, 2023 6:19 am

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» flexible string
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» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
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» jens sensfelder
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» Wood Prods
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» Fiberglass H-bows
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» Anyone make their own bolts?
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» stirrup dimensions?
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» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
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    Archer46176
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    Post by Archer46176 Sun Jun 04, 2017 9:12 pm

    I am hoping to get a Whamo Powermaster soon, within the next week or so. I was wondering if anyone has any information on the proper wooden arrows for one of them. I call them arrows as I have seen some people say bolts are for the Medieval crossbows. If anyone can help I would appreciate it. I know what to use in my modern factory crossbows but I would like to make wooden ones for the powermaster and any copies of it I can make in the future, which are my plans once I get the first original.
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    Post by kenh Mon Jun 05, 2017 5:20 am

    Any stick shot from a crossbow is called a bolt, regardless of age or era
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    Post by Archer46176 Mon Jun 05, 2017 8:05 am

    kenh wrote:Any stick shot from a crossbow is called a bolt, regardless of age or era
    Well, that was NO help AT ALL... Why would you comment with YOUR opinion that is TOTALLY off the actual topic of the original post? I didn't ask what you liked to call your ARROWS which is what the modern crossbow industry calls them, or what you like to call your BOLTS which are actually defined as short, heavy, large diameter projectiles with either 2 fletches or none at all!!!
       If you don't have anything to say about the original question then don't say anything AT ALL, I don't need your opinion on something that is like the argument of 9mm VS .45 ACP or Glock VS. Colt etc...
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    Post by Geezer Mon Jun 05, 2017 10:14 am

    The old Whamo crossbows used rather long bolts/quarrels/arrows, whatever you care to call them. Length @ 16 inches, with three fletches, cock feather down in the deep bolt-groove.  Most of the original size shafts I have seen were 5/16 or 11/32 inch cedar and many of them had cheap, sheet metal points.  I would recommend making any new bolts with slightly heavier heads: say 100 or 125 grain field points, for better stability. 
    In fact, the old Whamos will shoot substantially better, if you put a spacer under the prod, in its slot to raise it up a quarter inch or so.  That will reduce down-pressure on the string, giving you longer string life and higher velocity. Down side is that the bolt's cock feather may strike the raised prod, causing some new instability.  you may have to change to two-fletched medieval style bolts.  Everything in your crossbow is connected.  Changing one thing will have unanticipated ramifications.  Oh, and don't entirely trust your whamo's safety.  There was a product recall about that... so make sure you're pointing downrange when you let the safety off.  And Enjoy!  Geezer.
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    Post by Archer46176 Mon Jun 05, 2017 1:58 pm

    Geezer wrote:The old Whamo crossbows used rather long bolts/quarrels/arrows, whatever you care to call them. Length @ 16 inches, with three fletches, cock feather down in the deep bolt-groove.  Most of the original size shafts I have seen were 5/16 or 11/32 inch cedar and many of them had cheap, sheet metal points.  I would recommend making any new bolts with slightly heavier heads: say 100 or 125 grain field points, for better stability. 
    In fact, the old Whamos will shoot substantially better, if you put a spacer under the prod, in its slot to raise it up a quarter inch or so.  That will reduce down-pressure on the string, giving you longer string life and higher velocity. Down side is that the bolt's cock feather may strike the raised prod, causing some new instability.  you may have to change to two-fletched medieval style bolts.  Everything in your crossbow is connected.  Changing one thing will have unanticipated ramifications.  Oh, and don't entirely trust your whamo's safety.  There was a product recall about that... so make sure you're pointing downrange when you let the safety off.  And Enjoy!  Geezer.
    Thank you for the information Geezer!!!! This is why I used to come here a lot, because people were informative, glad to see you are still here. I don't plan to use the Whamo itself I am hoping to make reproductions. Being a machinist I should be able to tweak things for safety's sake. Thanks again for the GREAT source of information!!!!!
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    Post by Onager Lovac Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:17 pm

    Powermasters are real pretty xbows, i was lucky enough to buy and restore one some time ago.
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    Post by Onager Lovac Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:40 pm

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    Post by Archer46176 Mon Jun 05, 2017 5:50 pm

    Onager Lovac wrote:Powermasters are real pretty xbows, i was lucky enough to buy and restore one some time ago.
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    That looks VERY nice indeed
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    Post by Geezer Wed Jun 07, 2017 1:28 pm

    Note: this is a fairly early model Powermaster.  The earliest ones had a notch-pushpin lock.  Later ones had a stirrup that could slide out/or in as required.  It does enjoy a simple elegance, and given the broad butt and @ 80 lb draw, it could do without the stirrup.  The Powermaster my dad bought had no stirrup and experienced no problems drawing it.  Geezer.
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    Post by Archer46176 Tue Jun 13, 2017 5:00 pm

    The powermaster should be here tomorrow per the USPS tracking updates. The one I have coming is of the later design as the trigger mech is one piece and looks to come out of the stock all in one piece along with the site that is of the folding design with a peep that adjusts up and down. I will be curious to see it in person tomorrow. I am looking for replacement prods now as I don't really want to put much trust in the original aluminum prod.
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    Post by Geezer Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:10 pm

    Alchem and Slobows used to make steel replacement prods for old Powermasters.  I would start with them.  Geezer

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