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» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 10, 2024 3:16 pm
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» Qin/Han lock drawings
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by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm
» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 10, 2024 3:16 pm
» Colletiere a Charavines continuing experiment
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 02, 2024 7:13 am
» What you building?
by hullutiedemies Tue Jul 09, 2024 12:39 am
» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm
» Crossbow Stock
by kenh Tue Oct 31, 2023 6:19 am
» Cocking - how
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Aug 03, 2023 4:24 am
» Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Apr 26, 2023 1:10 am
» Arab Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Apr 25, 2023 7:57 am
» prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone?
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Mar 20, 2023 5:54 am
» flexible string
by jasper1978 Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:25 am
» jens sensfelder
by jasper1978 Wed Mar 08, 2023 11:58 pm
» 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high.
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Mar 05, 2023 2:53 pm
» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:14 pm
» Digitar prodsc
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:42 pm
» Troubleshooting
by Andy. Fri Jan 06, 2023 12:29 pm
» Wood Prods
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 12:47 pm
» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 30, 2022 8:54 am
» Simplified Löffelhotz speedloader
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Dec 09, 2022 4:05 pm
» Fiberglass H-bows
by c sitas Sat Nov 12, 2022 8:44 am
» Bad Antler
by drawknife Sat Nov 12, 2022 3:48 am
» Anyone make their own bolts?
by Juniper Mon Oct 17, 2022 8:20 am
» Josef alm in English
by Juniper Sat Oct 15, 2022 4:22 am
» Qin/Han lock drawings
by kenh Fri Sep 23, 2022 8:16 pm
» stirrup dimensions?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Sep 01, 2022 1:49 pm
» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am
4 posters
Knottelarmbrüste or other wooden crossbows
stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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OK, so I am in need of a new project (in an effort to avoid building a composite bow- I am an excellent procrastinator) and would like to continue learning as much as I can about early wooden crossbows. Just this week I stumbled over the term knottelarmbruste along with an entry that states most of the 'normal' bows of the 'country districts' were simple, cheap, and of yew (De Re Militari ). There is also the likelihood that the Berkhamstead bow was sinewed and it seems reasonable that a goodly proportion of these yew bows would also have been sinewed. I know of only 4 wooden bows - the Glasgow, Berkhamstead and Alcazar crossbows, four if you include the Colletiere a Charavines bow, is anyone able to point me in the direction of any other examples?
OrienM- Workshop Savvy
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There's the Skane, or Lillohus castle bow:
Late 19th cent. Norwegian bow, used for killing whales:
I suspect the Berkhamstead bow might have been sinew-backed; I'm pretty confident the others were not. They are in decent condition, so if they were backed originally I would expect some remnant of the backing to still be visible.
Late 19th cent. Norwegian bow, used for killing whales:
I suspect the Berkhamstead bow might have been sinew-backed; I'm pretty confident the others were not. They are in decent condition, so if they were backed originally I would expect some remnant of the backing to still be visible.
stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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Thanks Orien, I'd forgotten the Lillohus bow, I'd love to build one of those with a yew prod to the dimensions given. My limited experience with yew suggests the power achieved in some reconstructions might be far too low.
If the bows still have sapwood I feel they were not sinewed but my theory is that if they are only heartwood then they must have been backed.
If the bows still have sapwood I feel they were not sinewed but my theory is that if they are only heartwood then they must have been backed.
stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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Another I forgot, the Livrustkammaren in Stockholm, Sweden , a full on wood and sinew gothic crossbow with painted birchbark finish. Its the last image on the page.
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7516&page=5&pp=30
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7516&page=5&pp=30
OrienM- Workshop Savvy
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stuckinthemud1 wrote:Another I forgot, the Livrustkammaren in Stockholm, Sweden , a full on wood and sinew gothic crossbow with painted birchbark finish. Its the last image on the page.
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7516&page=5&pp=30
My favorite wood/sinew prod! I posted a pic of this one recently on the 'Yew Composite Prod, help needed' thread. I think it's a particularly nice example of a wooden composite prod, and in near-shootable condition, too. That vikingsword.com thread is a gold mine of great crossbow pics...
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stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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Hey Banuvatt,
That drawing is so cool, just one small detail, if you angle the release peg a few degrees to align with the arc the tickler moves through, the release is much smoother.
That drawing is so cool, just one small detail, if you angle the release peg a few degrees to align with the arc the tickler moves through, the release is much smoother.
OrienM- Workshop Savvy
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banuvatt- Workshop Savvy
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I am trying to build a crossbow for my friend but it's stock it's more contemporary shaped like a rifle I thought about either doing a roller nut or a modified version of the skane lock's trigger mechanism.
stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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No reason that wouldnt work very nicely, but if you produce a drawing with the tickler at the bottom of its travel you will see why the pin needs to be angled slightly
banuvatt- Workshop Savvy
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Is it true that a roller nut is more efficient because it always maintains contact with the butt of the bolt, while a skane lock some of it's energy is wasted slamming the end of the bolt?
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In a word, yes, assuming the nut doesn't weigh too much and rolls easily. Geezer.
banuvatt- Workshop Savvy
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The bow I was going to use is rather light 32-36 lbs. Originally it was around 50 lbs but I had to remove weight because it was too stiff where the limbs were and was only bending in the center. For the nut I was going to use 1" delrin rod or a hardwood dowel if I couldn't get access to delrin.
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This is a crossbow from Tod's workshop.
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stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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He did another version of that one with self nocks not horn that looks a lot better. I think he said it pulls 150lb
banuvatt- Workshop Savvy
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Can you find a picture?
stuckinthemud1- Crossbow Junkie
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Yes, but, I am not happy with the shape of the tiller as a 12th century design, perhaps others with more experience will correct me, but the only manuscript I can find with this shape stock is dated 1440, the 13th century manuscripts shown throughout the Viking Sword pages show a slender and heavily rounded over tiller shape http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7516&page=4&pp=30