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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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kenh
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    Rasp for Red oak

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    Stonedog
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    Rasp for Red oak Empty Rasp for Red oak

    Post by Stonedog Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 pm

    Red oak is good stuff....I have made quite a few flatbows with it over the past 10 years....one thing I did not like however was how splintery it was during rasping.

    What rasp(s) would you suggest/use for working red oak to avoid tearing and splintering?
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    Post by kenh Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:03 pm

    I've successfully used the fine side of the classic half round, half flat general purpose rasp that has both flat and rounded rough and fine teeth.

    What I really prefer for working oak is a belt sander turned upside down, with a 40 grit belt. If I had a table sander I would use it, but all I've got is a 3x18 belt sander...
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    Post by Geezer Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:08 pm

    Buy yourself a spokeshave... get it razor-sharp and then go to work... it's better working with the grain rather than into it. Use a sharp spoke-shave about half an hour and you'll never want to put it down. Wonderful tool!
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    Post by olrono Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:52 pm

    Geezer wrote:Buy yourself a spokeshave... get it razor-sharp and then go to work... it's better working with the grain rather than into it. Use a sharp spoke-shave about half an hour and you'll never want to put it down. Wonderful tool!
    Geezer

    Hi Geez, Ron here Is that tool like a plane with the blade in the middle of two handles for both hands? I remember those from Jr.high wood-shop. Judging by your stock you made for me, they work really great. The stock you made is out right sexy!!! sunny
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    Post by chaz Fri Sep 07, 2012 12:31 am

    Ron,

    Go to e-bay ................ look up spoke shave and then draw knife ................ you'll see the difference.

    They seem very reasonable price wise............. of course you could spend as much as you want.

    Chaz
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    Post by chaz Fri Sep 07, 2012 12:43 am

    Ron,

    For the most part I believe you'll find the spoke shave has an adjustable blade much like a plane.

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    Post by Geezer Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:30 am

    Yup, spokeshaves have adjustable blades, like a small plane, with handles on the sides. Some have a simple set-screw for the blade, others use two knobs. The knobs are a bit easier to adjust, but either type will serve you will if you keep it sharp. Sharp is the key. Geezer.
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    Post by chaz Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:41 am

    'bout the only dull blade might be a butter knife .......but who uses one of those any more ?

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    Post by chaz Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:57 am

    Stonedog,

    I do use a horse hoof file ( rasp used by horseshoers, usually has a combination of four different rasp textures) when I want to remove a lot of material rather quickly and then go to the finer methods as Geezer mentioned, on down to fine sand paper or a scraping method which may even include using glass. Seems to have a lot to do with how one develops ones' woodworking techniques. You'll learn a lot just by doing.

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    Rasp for Red oak Empty Re: Rasp for Red oak

    Post by cloggy Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:42 am

    Hi All
    I am a Carpenter/Joiner by trade and use spokeshaves and drawknife quite regularly, the spokeshaves come with various shaped bottoms I have the flat bottom and a convex one this is better for getting in tight inner curves, I find the drawknife better for long lengths when needing a heavier cut, and is useful for splitting down the grain,
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    Post by Geezer Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:30 am

    Indeed, there are lots of spokeshaves available on the market. I think a flat-bottomed Stanley is probably the easiest to master for a beginner, assuming the blade is Really-Really sharp. Convex-bottomed shaves are as you say, very good for getting into hollows, but they take a bit of practice to keep the blade in the optimal cutting angle. There are also shaves with convex or concave blades for specialized shaping. They're much harder to keep sharp and have limited value for crossbow making. I recommend starting with a flat one and maybe a convex one and let the others wait.
    As for draw-knives... I have a good, sharp one, but quite honestly, I am rather a klutz in the shop and all that unprotected razor-sharp steel just scares the willies outa me. I use it occasionally for removing lots of stock, particularly on cheek-pieces, but mostly my draw-knife stays safely in its bracket in the corner, where nobody can bump into it. Geezer
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    Post by cloggy Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:45 am

    Hi Geezer
    I made a protector for the blade out of a length of timber. the length of the blade with a slot down it that fits over when not in use, I would hate to take the edge off because it takes so long to re-hone it if it was to get a chip in it, and as you say the the safety of ones self is more important.
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    Post by Geezer Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:52 am

    That sounds workable. I've seen covers made of a length of old garden hose, slit down one side. In fact, I oughta make such covers for both of my draw-knives. I'll do that first thing Monday morning... if I can avoid hurting myself. Ahh well, it's the price of sharp tools. Geezer.
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    Post by chaz Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:53 pm

    Geezer,

    My draw knife has a wingnut at each handle, and the handles are adjustable to angle, and each handle has a slot so that when not in use the handles close over the blade and their wing nuts tightened, thus the blade is protected and safe when not in use.

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    Post by chaz Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:27 pm

    There are several "folding" draw knives currently for sale on e-bay, the wilkinson folding draw knife is a pretty nice tool.

    Chaz

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