Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

Latest topics

» thank you n hope to learn in this forum
by kenh Yesterday at 5:01 am

» Red Oak Board (x)Bow.
by banuvatt Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:20 am

» New member intro and couple of questions
by Wildtech Mon Jun 03, 2019 6:46 am

» best way of spanning a 200+lb bow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 31, 2019 3:31 am

» where to find antler for nut construction
by victortkz Sat May 25, 2019 10:47 am

» Steel prod - unknown draw weight
by Cornerstone Sat May 25, 2019 3:07 am

» Compound twinbow pistol (posts vs pulleys)
by Mooki Mon May 06, 2019 8:21 am

» making a reproduction of a 15th century cranequin
by victortkz Fri May 03, 2019 3:51 am

» can you point me in the direction of a post on nut-making
by kenh Sun Apr 28, 2019 5:09 am

» Chinese Han Dynasty Crossbow 300lbs 20" powerstroke
by Geezer Thu Apr 25, 2019 11:56 am

» My latest crossbow creation, the Vanquish
by MPDVM Sun Apr 21, 2019 5:50 pm

» Steel prod on a crossbow
by c sitas Sun Apr 21, 2019 8:33 am

» robin allen crossbow for sale or trade
by elkhunter Sat Apr 20, 2019 5:47 pm

» man made material for reinforced socket
by 8fingers Sat Apr 20, 2019 12:36 pm

» Dimension help
by kenh Mon Apr 15, 2019 5:15 am

» how do I finish a mixed material tiller
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Apr 12, 2019 9:55 am

» All metal Self Loading Crossbow Build Information needed
by Wildtech Fri Apr 05, 2019 6:01 am

» hello! introductions
by kenh Sun Mar 31, 2019 5:31 pm

» Brand new Demon crossbow
by Phil Abrahams Sat Mar 30, 2019 4:33 am

» SOLD: Masai Huntsman Crossbow
by TonyU Fri Mar 29, 2019 2:05 pm

» Another New Crossbow Builder
by Geezer Wed Mar 27, 2019 12:40 pm

» Side plates and axle pin?
by Geezer Fri Mar 22, 2019 5:01 pm

» 3D crossbow design
by Andy. Mon Mar 11, 2019 11:23 pm

» Making a stirrup
by Geezer Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:17 pm

» 8mm or 10mm for pivot
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Mar 10, 2019 3:33 pm


    horn inlay and veneer

    avatar
    stuckinthemud1
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 183
    Join date : 2014-02-05
    Age : 51
    Location : south wales valleys

    horn inlay and veneer Empty horn inlay and veneer

    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Tue Apr 03, 2018 2:54 pm

    I have been pondering much recently about the antler and buffalo horn inlays the medieval stock makers used and in particular the seemingly complex shoulder pieces around the nut-block. Anyone out there have any insights as to how these were achieved and would I be right in thinking casein would have been their adhesive of choice?
    Geezer
    Geezer
    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1101
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 71
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by Geezer on Tue Apr 03, 2018 5:41 pm

    Glue for bone inlay?  I know they used hide glue and fish glue for horn/sinew prods, but casein glue is certainly a strong possibility.  The hide/fish glue is probably more water proof. 
    As for the bone inlays themselves, Holger Richter's "Die Hornbogen Armbrust" has photos of an ancient stock with its bone inlays removed. The inlets appear to be about 1/8 in. deep, which incidentally is about as thick as I've been able to buy camel-bone plaques online.  I know bone topped stocks usually have the bone inlet in the stock, with a bit of wood showing around it.  Tne easiest way to achieve that is to do the bone tope FIRST, before anything else is done.  That way you're less likely to blow out a narrow edge of wood surrounding the inlay.
    For fancy decorative inlays ln the side or bottom of the stock, those seem to be pretty thin... simetimes even made of parchment... yeah, that thin where strength isn't an issue.  Geezer.
    avatar
    stuckinthemud1
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 183
    Join date : 2014-02-05
    Age : 51
    Location : south wales valleys

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Wed Apr 04, 2018 3:27 am

    Found the image in 'Die Hornbogen Armbrust', thanks Geezer, it is very enlightening. Wow those veneers are thin. Regarding the inlays along the spine of the stock, are they always bone? I had thought to use antler.
    Geezer
    Geezer
    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1101
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 71
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by Geezer on Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:18 am

    Antler should be fine.  Geezer.
    Geezer
    Geezer
    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1101
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 71
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by Geezer on Wed Apr 04, 2018 7:21 am

    I have also seen cow-horn for the table (top inlay) Geezer.
    OrienM
    OrienM
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 160
    Join date : 2014-08-01
    Age : 43
    Location : New Mexico, USA

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by OrienM on Sat May 12, 2018 8:59 am

    Horn can be 'stir-fried' and bent easily while hot; I was amazed how floppy the material becomes after a short time in hot oil! It was relatively easy to shape my double-curved cheek pieces by hand, wearing gloves of course. A carved jig would also work very well.

    Bone and antler are both quite a bit more wear resistant and low-friction than horn, IMO. I tried using horn inlays as wear-plates on the soles of some of the hand planes I make, and it wore out rather quickly.

     I generally glue all these materials with '2-ton' epoxy...not authentic, but strong.
    avatar
    stuckinthemud1
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 183
    Join date : 2014-02-05
    Age : 51
    Location : south wales valleys

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Thu May 24, 2018 12:05 pm

    OrienM wrote:Horn can be 'stir-fried' and bent easily while hot; I was amazed how floppy the material becomes after a short time in hot oil! It was relatively easy to shape my double-curved cheek pieces by hand, wearing gloves of course. A carved jig would also work very well.

    This sounds interesting, and I will give it a go in the very near future; presumably the oil is not too hot?  Any idea what temperature to aim for?  Also, I guess we are talking about vegetable oil here, not mineral? One last question, what thickness of veneer were you using - something about 1/8"?
    OrienM
    OrienM
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 160
    Join date : 2014-08-01
    Age : 43
    Location : New Mexico, USA

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by OrienM on Thu May 24, 2018 8:44 pm

    Yes, the horn panels were about 1/8", maybe a  little thicker. I used vegetable oil, a low temperature, and 'cooked' each piece for maybe 30-40 seconds. The hot horn was soft and flexible, easy to shape. If overcooked it gets brittle; I broke a panel on my first try, and had to cut another.

    Sponsored content

    horn inlay and veneer Empty Re: horn inlay and veneer

    Post by Sponsored content


      Current date/time is Tue Jun 18, 2019 1:04 am