Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

Latest topics

» Marble Shooting Crossbow
by JacobL Yesterday at 7:22 pm

» Ball shooting Crossbows worth the bother
by JacobL Yesterday at 7:11 pm

» Wooden Crossbows - Seeking Info
by Franck Fri Jul 20, 2018 4:16 pm

» crossbow prod material/what type of steel
by Franck Fri Jul 20, 2018 4:11 pm

» my composite crossbow lath project
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:35 pm

» Limb harding\ tempering ?
by ragumup Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:03 am

» how made homemade (reverse) crossbow ?
by Ricardo Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:56 pm

» Pump action crossbow (powerful)
by Ivanhoe Fri Jul 13, 2018 7:50 am

» nut from antler
by OrienM Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:50 am

» Nut from a pool que ball?
by drawknife Sun Jun 17, 2018 5:29 am

» Trouble with my Gafa
by drawknife Fri Jun 15, 2018 2:56 am

» Do all triggers Have claws - what types and claw or no claw
by globalmark Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:19 am

» For Sale: Masai Crossbow
by TonyU Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:15 pm

» Medieval composite bows
by juanjo Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:10 am

» yew and sinew prod help needed
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 07, 2018 1:34 am

» Small gothic crossbow (with wooden lever)
by OrienM Fri Jun 01, 2018 10:35 am

» Binding on the stirrup
by Geezer Sat May 26, 2018 7:26 am

» horn inlay and veneer
by OrienM Thu May 24, 2018 8:44 pm

» Presentation
by c sitas Wed May 23, 2018 4:31 pm

» My latest crossbow
by drawknife Tue May 22, 2018 3:13 pm

» The Arbalist Guild - Around the World
by stuckinthemud1 Sun May 20, 2018 5:32 am

» angles and rivets
by Geezer Fri May 18, 2018 1:16 pm

» morticed nut blocks
by Dark Factor Wed May 16, 2018 12:02 pm

» Crossbow triggers
by Croftage Mon May 14, 2018 1:41 pm

» Cocking lever
by c sitas Fri May 11, 2018 8:09 am


    morticed nut blocks

    Share

    stuckinthemud1
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 127
    Join date : 2014-02-05
    Age : 50
    Location : south wales valleys

    morticed nut blocks

    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Fri May 11, 2018 1:50 am

    I have read that many, perhaps even most Central European crossbows had their nut-blocks reinforced with horn and set into a mortice.  My question is, when did this become the norm? Was there a point where it was usual to carve the socket for the nut directly into the stock and then add a reinforcing wedge of horn?   For those of us with the correct tool-kit, is it quicker/easier/better to cut the socket directly into the tiller or go with a morticed block?
    avatar
    Geezer
    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1032
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 70
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by Geezer on Fri May 11, 2018 8:03 am

    Mortised/horn-bone reinforced nut sockets: The easiest way to do this is cut two blocks of bone or horn, about 1 inch by 1/2 inch, and as long as the stock is wide.  Cut two slots into the top of the stock and glue the blocks in place.  Then cut the nut socket with a forstner bit... preferably on a drill press, to get it really straight.  That will get you a good reinforced socket. 
    Down side of the above system:  It leaves the sides of the nut socket pretty weak. Strong bows may tend to break out the spacer, and you'll spend a fair mount of time fixing the problem. 
    Second way: cut a block of wood, make the same bone slugs, inlet them in the block, and then drill thru between the blocks.  Now you have a nut-socket without a stock. Cut the pre-made socket to the size you want, mortise a corresponding hole in the top of your stock and install the pre-made socket.  This gives you a much stronger stock thru the sides, but it's a lot of trouble to do if you don't have a mortise machine or a mortise attachment for your drill press.  Can be done with hand tools, but it will take time. Does that make sense?  That's how we do it in my shop anyhow.  Geezer.
    avatar
    OrienM
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 160
    Join date : 2014-08-01
    Age : 42
    Location : New Mexico, USA

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by OrienM on Sat May 12, 2018 8:40 am

    I recently used the 2nd method Geezer mentions (both antler blocks attached to a base plate, drilled from the side, slotted from below for the trigger, then inletted into the top surface of the tiller). It worked well, and made a very tough, low-friction socket for the nut.

    In earlier builds I didn't use reinforcing blocks, and did see a bit of damage and cracking to the edges of the socket from use. I think blocks are a good addition to any bow, and probably absolutely necessary with bows over a certain power level.

    Pic shows the set of blocks and nut, ready to install:

    avatar
    Geezer
    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1032
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 70
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by Geezer on Sat May 12, 2018 8:44 am

    Yes-yes: exactly right.  You do very nice work.
    These days I bone-reinforce the socket on every bow I make over @ 100 lb. draw.  Geezer.

    stuckinthemud1
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 127
    Join date : 2014-02-05
    Age : 50
    Location : south wales valleys

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Mon May 14, 2018 12:45 pm

    Just a quick one, I know I should know, but what sort of radius should the nut be, and, anyone able to supply one? I'm fairly confident i can carve one, but...
    avatar
    Geezer
    Master Crossbowyer
    Master Crossbowyer

    Posts : 1032
    Join date : 2010-01-12
    Age : 70
    Location : Austin, Texas, USA

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by Geezer on Mon May 14, 2018 1:31 pm

    Roller nut size:  I have seen them as small as one inch (25.4 mm) diameter and about the same in width... on the slender Padre Island bows, and as large as something over 2 inches in the big wall bow on display in the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna)  On the average, most nuts I have seen on extant bows (tending toward later sporting bows) run 1 and 3/8 to 1 and 1/4 diameter and about 1 inch to and inch and a quarter wide.  (again the roller on the siege bow was closer to 2 inches wide) Figures I have seen in archaeological texts tend to agree.  25-30 mm wide, @ 35 mm diameter.  Remember, the smaller you make the nut-diameter, the more critical the fit between nut and socket.  So I would recommend using a fairly large diameter unless the entire stock is very skinny, like the Padre Island bow.  Geezer

    stuckinthemud1
    Workshop Savvy

    Did you see my tool collection?


    Workshop SavvyDid you see my tool collection?

    Posts : 127
    Join date : 2014-02-05
    Age : 50
    Location : south wales valleys

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Mon May 14, 2018 2:01 pm

    Thanks Geezer
    avatar
    Dark Factor
    Tinkerer

    If there is a will, there is a way.


    TinkererIf there is a will, there  is a way.

    Posts : 65
    Join date : 2017-10-16
    Age : 34
    Location : Belgium

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by Dark Factor on Wed May 16, 2018 12:02 pm

    I've red an archeological study about diameters and most of them are between 25 and 45 mm diameters. the average diameter increase from about 30mm at years 1200-1300 to 35 and more at the end of Middle Ages. (maybe because of stronger draw weight).
    there are also a very few models of "hammer shape" nuts that are longer than others.

    Sponsored content

    Re: morticed nut blocks

    Post by Sponsored content


      Current date/time is Mon Jul 23, 2018 7:35 am