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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

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» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
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» jens sensfelder
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» 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high.
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» Codex Löffelholz crossbow
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» Troubleshooting
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» Wood Prods
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» Colletiere a Charavines crossbow
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» Fiberglass H-bows
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» Bad Antler
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» Anyone make their own bolts?
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» Qin/Han lock drawings
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» stirrup dimensions?
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» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
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    Metalworking Basics

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    Metalworking Basics Empty Metalworking Basics

    Post by Ivo Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:35 pm

    ~Metalworking Basics~

    Metalworking Basics Tb_drill



    Last edited by Ivo on Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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    Post by Ivo Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:40 pm

    ~Sharpening a dull drill bit~

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    Metalworking Basics Empty Re: Metalworking Basics

    Post by Ivo Sat Dec 12, 2009 3:33 am

    Making a rolling nut...steel or aluminum there I'm not sure, but certainly good examples of some old school metal working. Enjoy. santa

    justinbell
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    Post by justinbell Thu Jan 27, 2011 5:45 am

    nice videos on metal workshops to learn basics of it. I am offering similar type of metal products like stainless steel sheet, aluminium, brass , copper etc.
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    Post by Geezer Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:26 am

    Geezer here: I watched the video on making a metal roller-nut. Boy does it take me back to my early days. But seriously, I have two recommendations. The metal in the video appears to be an aluminum alloy. Aluminum is surprisingly hard to work... it's soft but sorta sticky. It will make a fast, strong lock, but watch out for nasty aluminum-oxide buildup inside the nut-socket, which will spread all over your track.
    Second, if you cut your sear-notch all the way across the bottom of the nut, you'll get a lot of oscillation if you let the nut run more or less free in the socket. you'll have to mount the nut on an axle, which eventually turns up various problems. That is why I recommend using a plug-type sear and set the end in a narrow pocket. You get a smoother-running roller without much more effort. Of course it you're cutting them out of heavy metal bar-stock, the step sear would be easier. Geezer..
    Niel Andersen
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    Post by Niel Andersen Mon Jan 14, 2013 3:05 pm

    That's definitely aluminium... don't think I've ever used a chisel on steel.

    I don't know if you guy's have seen the aluminium brazing rod you can get these days. I got some to repair cooling fins on an old cylinder head for a restoration project.



    There are other kinds. Alumiweld, alumibond 3000... and some others.
    Check it out.

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