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    WTB nut and tickler/trigger

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    kwandokun
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    WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kwandokun on Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:29 pm

    Hi all,

    I'm beginning my first build soon however I lack the tools to machine my own nut and tickler out of steel or horn.

    I'm not a fan of having these components made out of wood.

    If anyone on the forums has spares or can turn a set out for me that'd be great. Please pm me so we can discuss pricing.

    Cheers,

    Kwando
    B.Cheers
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by B.Cheers on Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:30 am

    @Kwandokun you can make a nut and latch using flat steel shaping it then pining to all together like this.


    and all you need is a grinder and drill, or 9 square washers so you dont need to drill the centre hole.
    kwandokun
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kwandokun on Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:40 am

    I hadn't considered this.

    Looks like a great way to fabricate something out of steel without the proper tools.

    How do you keep all the pieces together though?
    kenh
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kenh on Thu Nov 29, 2012 2:32 am

    He's using pins to hold the bits together; could also be brazed I suppose if you have the equipment. Steel is probably not the best material for a nut - too heavy for it's size. A lot of folks are using 1-1/2" diameter Delrin plastic rod, short bits of which can be bought through Ebay. It is easily cut with a hacksaw and looks similar to bone. As for a tickler, B. Cheers may be able to help. It's basically just a bent and then hardened rod or square stock.
    B.Cheers
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by B.Cheers on Thu Nov 29, 2012 4:43 am

    Yeah Kenh is right that a steel nut is quite heavy, As for the Tickler/Latch i made mine the same way as the sear with 3 parts pined together with 3 pins.

    In the image below the latch wasn't finished and is only the middle plate two others go on the outside and are half the length of the middle plate.
    The Axis points on the sear and latch where 6.5mm holes and i used 6.4mm gal solid rod, the pin holes where 1.5mm, Also remember this trigger is a bull-pup setup where the latch pulls forward but im pretty sure you could just flip the latch around thus making it the trigger.

    And as for pinning steel together if done right it is stronger then welding since the only weak point is the pin, and a primer of some sort is needed before pinning to prevent rust from forming between the pinned plates vinniguard works well my father use's it on his steel boat.
    Zardoz
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    Making nut

    Post by Zardoz on Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:40 am

    I am new to all this too, and I agree with the Delrin rod for the nut, but if you need something stronger, try brass bar. It is a lot softer than steel, but plenty strong and much easier to cut. you could use a drill, hacksaw, files, and a Dremel to make it. Again, I'm no expert, but I am learning a lot from this forum and the internet and I have most of the books available about crossbows.
    kwandokun
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kwandokun on Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:13 pm

    Brass would look brilliant.

    How does it stack up against aluminium though? I've read people have had trouble working with aluminium.
    B.Cheers
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by B.Cheers on Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:22 pm

    Alloy is just as easy to work as brass depending on what temper the alloy is, only downsides with alloy is one when cutting it with a angle grinder make sure you have a good pair of safety glasses since the alloy shoots off in tiny parts unlike steel two can only be welded well with a mig welder however you can buy alloy sticks for a stick welder but you require a welder that goes past 400amps i think.

    As for drilling and filing it rather easy just dont file alloy then steel and switch cutting\grinding disks keep one for the alloy one for steel since alloy does not mix well with steel hence Corrosion

    Sorry forgot to say that alloy and brass is not the cheapest thing to buy here but you can pick up scraps for next to nothing from the junk yards or boat slip ways are good for brass just ask if you can do some bin driving for it.
    kwandokun
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kwandokun on Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:41 pm

    Thanks.

    1-1/2" for the diameter. What should the length be?
    kenh
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kenh on Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:00 pm

    Well, the length you cut the Nut to will be the width of the tiller (on the order of 2" or less). You want to buy a short piece -- say a foot. That will give you plenty of length to make a couple mistakes with. I saw one listing here in the States - $12.49 for a 1 foot length of 1-3/4" diameter. You should be able to find the same thing down there from industrial supply houses, tool shops, Ebay, etc.

    Here's a fella on Ebay US selling 6" lengths of all sorts of diameters including 1.5". A 6" piece of 1.5" diameter white is going for $7 USD,plus shipping....

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/30766W-DELRIN-1-1-2-DIA-6-LONG-ROD-WHITE-SALE-/200559717143?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D200613854810%26ps%3D54


    Last edited by kenh on Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
    kwandokun
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kwandokun on Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:05 pm

    cheers kenh.

    unfortunately us aussies have to pay premium for a lot of things.

    cheapest listing on ebay so far for a 1-1/2 by 6" will total $38 incl postage.

    gonna try find a local brass supplier and ask for scraps.
    kwandokun
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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

    Post by kwandokun on Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:20 pm

    Settled on a 12" delrin rod from ebay.

    Gives me some extra room for beginner mistakes.

    Thanks for all the tips guys.

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    Re: WTB nut and tickler/trigger

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