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+5
c sitas
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Geezer
9 posters

    My homemade flemish crossbow

    MePilot1
    MePilot1
    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
    I'm new to crossbows


    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows


    Posts : 36
    Join date : 2015-03-28
    Age : 37
    Location : Israel

    My homemade flemish crossbow - Page 2 Empty My homemade flemish crossbow

    Post by MePilot1 Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:47 am

    First topic message reminder :

    My homemade flemish crossbow - Page 2 110

    Some technical data: 
    Total length (with stirrup): 85 cm 
    Length of stock: 75 cm
    Total weigth: 3,3 kg
    Weigth of goatsfoot: 0.9 kg
    Steel bow parameters: 
    Length of string: 64 cm
    Width in the center: 35 mm
    Width near its ends: 23 mm
    Thickness in the center: 8 mm
    Thickness near its ends: 5 mm
    Draw length: 17 cm
    Draw force: approx 120 kg

    Feel free to rate, comment and ask questions )


    Last edited by MePilot1 on Wed Feb 03, 2016 4:10 am; edited 1 time in total
    MePilot1
    MePilot1
    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
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    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows


    Posts : 36
    Join date : 2015-03-28
    Age : 37
    Location : Israel

    My homemade flemish crossbow - Page 2 Empty Gafa

    Post by MePilot1 Fri Jun 26, 2015 5:10 am

    I have been asked about my goats foot lever so I thought these pics might be useful 

    My homemade flemish crossbow - Page 2 Early10


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    c sitas
    Crossbow Junkie

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    Post by c sitas Fri Jun 26, 2015 7:55 am

    Hello Me;  Have a question here. Is the metal you used for the gafa regular mild steel ,or is it the high carbon  stuff?  Nice looking metal work.
    Geezer
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    Post by Geezer Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:22 am

    If you have a powerful bow, high carbon steel for the long legs of the gafa and polished very nicely will improve performance, and help prevent the legs sticking to the gafa-pin on the stock. I knew one guy who actually put brass bushing-rollers on his pins to reduce friction.  They worked great.... just hollow brass tube, running on the thru-pin, with little caps to keep the rollers from popping off.  Geezer
    MePilot1
    MePilot1
    Fresh Blood

    Doesn't mean
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    Fresh Blood Doesn't meanI'm new to crossbows


    Posts : 36
    Join date : 2015-03-28
    Age : 37
    Location : Israel

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    Post by MePilot1 Fri Jun 26, 2015 9:02 am

    I used regular steel, and its still works fine, although high carbon steel is certainly a good choice. The only problem with the friction that I have is when the gafa is dirty with sand.
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    c sitas
    Crossbow Junkie

    I live here!


    Crossbow JunkieI live here!


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    Post by c sitas Fri Jun 26, 2015 2:33 pm

    Good stuff guys, and thanks. I know what you mean about sand. That's where I live. You are careful by nature.
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    stm2010
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    Post by stm2010 Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:55 pm

    How do you use the gofa cocking lever?
    Armbrustier
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    Post by Armbrustier Fri Jun 24, 2016 3:59 am

    "its quite a lot, the cocking with gafa is much quicker and more convenient than with windlass or cranequin. The latter are used for heavier bows, like 200-500 kg."

    I would say that the cranequin was used from maybe 200 kg up to around 1000 kg.

    "Historically, hemp or linen was used.  At first I tried that, but it kept stretching after 10-20 shots, and this happens to a lot of crossbowmakers. My opinion is that we miss some ancient technology of making a quality strings out of natural materials." 

    I don't actually think we lack the technology, even though I know that we don't know everything about stringmaking. The bigger problem today is the material itself, linen for example is mostly produced now for the oil, the linen cloth and strings are a byproduct. The plants are probably not nearly the same as when thay were supposed to give long and strong fibres.

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