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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Ball shooting Crossbows worth the bother
by topfmine Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:24 pm

» Chu Ko Nu - repeating chinese crossbow
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» Skew of tiller
by drawknife Fri Aug 27, 2021 9:18 am

» tiller desgin
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» Want to build modern target crossbow
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» starting a 1400's replica
by tghsmith Wed Aug 11, 2021 10:25 am

» New Medieval just about finished
by Dark Factor Mon Aug 02, 2021 6:41 am

» How do I tune this
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jul 25, 2021 3:14 am

» Plans and materials for my first build
by c sitas Sat Jul 03, 2021 7:39 am

» Bolt rest
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jun 14, 2021 3:24 pm

» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:25 pm

» ash lath and pin-lock crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:56 am

» Late medieval tournament distances?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:20 am

» Cutting delrin straight by hand?
by kenh Thu Apr 01, 2021 8:24 pm

» Other forums like this one?
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Mar 30, 2021 9:23 am

» new find in china, terra cotta warrior site
by tghsmith Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:42 am

» Crossbow Books
by Andy. Sun Mar 14, 2021 3:46 pm

» 95lb ancient crossbow shot faster than 960lb medieval
by Fangbows Fri Mar 12, 2021 11:36 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by kenh Tue Mar 09, 2021 3:16 pm

» re-introduction
by tghsmith Sun Mar 07, 2021 3:15 pm

» 4 fletch question
by 8fingers Fri Feb 05, 2021 3:14 am

» fix bolts
by MPDVM Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:40 pm

» Reverse draw compound bow build
by c sitas Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:20 pm

» New Build for 2020
by Gnome Wed Jan 27, 2021 6:19 am

» Spanning bench ideas
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jan 08, 2021 1:07 pm


+4
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Wed Sep 09, 2015 4:29 pm

    At long last, she is finished   pics!!! Image_zpsyskciasz

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    curl maple.
    bone and antler inlays
    silver wire
    all steel except the prod forged by me
    prod is 150-190 lber from slobows
    chrono at 180 fps with a 500 grain bolt
    the cow bone is from my herd, and the antler is from my kills
    it shoots really nice groups
    i could not have done any of this without you guys.  never even seen a medieval in person, and learned so much from this site and in particular ivo and geezer (long time lurker)
    thanks again yall!
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    Post by Geezer Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:13 pm

    Congratulations: I see you settled on a stone-bow type foresight.  It should be accurate, if a bit delicate.  Have more fun shooting!
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    Post by Xamllew Thu Sep 10, 2015 2:02 am

    Looks impressive, really cool sights, never saw that kind before. Is that switch on the right side of the tiller a safety?
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Thu Sep 10, 2015 5:15 am

    Thanks geezer, as i agonized over windage adjustment the stone bow front sight became  more and more attractive.   I also like the way it looks.   

    X, thank you.   The switch on the tight side is indeed the safety, which also locks the tickler and nut in Position for cocking.   It arrests all movement in the on position.   A quarter turn towards the target faced the recess in the center if the rod towards the tickler, allowing the movement necessary to drop the tickler frrom the sear face 
    I couldnt settle on a rear sight so i buried a 3/8 nut under the cow bone, so i can swap rear sights simply by screwing in a different one
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    Post by chaz Thu Sep 10, 2015 7:21 am

    Army

         Very nice. What are using for a spanner device, or are you just using your hands ?

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    Post by c sitas Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:12 am

    Army looking good my man. Real nice attention to the details.It should serve you well.
    Did you make a goats foot for cocking? There are pegs that make me think so.
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    Post by MePilot1 Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:59 am

    Hi! I agree! Very nice work! I especially like the twisted lever and lock plates, which have the sharp edges that I kind of want now on my crossbow instead of my blunt ones )  And a bit critisism if I may: the stirrup looks too square, too straight in shape. Which IMHO comes in contrast with the rest "curvy" shape of the entire crossbow. I had almost identical stirrup on my crossbow, but later replaced it with the one like in Gallwey's book.
    I see you have an axle coming out of the tiller. What is it for? Gafa? Natural materials like bone and antler are really good thing. I too replaced my black delrin nut with antler. How far does it shoot?
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Thu Sep 10, 2015 3:33 pm

    Thanks guys.   
    I never noticed the stirrup not fitting the curves.  Good call

    The peg in the tiller is for the cocking rope which handles the weight with ease. I can cock it by hand but only for hunting as it gets tiresome after a few shots

    Ive shot it out to forty yards so far. Seems very accurate

    I also added a strip of buckskin to the bottom of the bolt clip.  It now shoots very quietly for an xbow
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    Post by c sitas Thu Sep 10, 2015 5:16 pm

    Mr. Army; How do you rig your rope? I'm interested
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Thu Sep 10, 2015 5:47 pm

    The rope goes between the tiller and tickler, comes out over the peg on each side, down to the string where the hooks with a pulley wheel grab the string, which then comes into the handles in my hand.   A straight pull up and the string comes up, jumps the nut and rests in the claws.   Very easy to do. Hard to describe
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Thu Sep 10, 2015 6:31 pm

    Also of note i forged broadheads today and was able to draw first blood with my new crossbow
    The heads performed admirably 

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    After seeing the performance i think i am now firmly in ashby's single bevel camp.
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    Post by GodricSwin Sat Sep 12, 2015 2:07 am

    Great job, army! I'm interested in the rope cocking device; a picture would be much appreciated.
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Sat Sep 12, 2015 7:05 am

    Im stuck in the concrete jungle today so no pic but it is essentially this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400861508545?ul_noapp=true&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D53601919689_324272%2526itemid%253D400861508545%2526targetid%253D87946120329%2526rpc%253D0.20%2526rpc_upld_id%253D54745%2526rlsatarget%253D%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F400861508545%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526loc%253D%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D%2526adgroupid%253D%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQjwms-vBRDlsM7utpaJ47ABEiQAIpKjTKfXVW-rYii6zoWUpnrO-JacqY6ZZUCAzfJDEoEERpUaAtRD8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D895978068117&chn=ps&lpid=82

    Used as i described
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Sat Sep 12, 2015 7:07 am

    Not sure that worked.   The barnett rope cocker.   Image comes right up on google
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    Post by GodricSwin Sat Sep 12, 2015 12:29 pm

    Thanks, Army.  It comes across clearly
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    Post by Gnome Sat Sep 12, 2015 4:51 pm

    Nice work, Army.I wouldn't sweat about the esthetic of the stirrup, if it fits good on the biggest boot you're apt to be wearing while stalking the tundra, it's perfect!
    I'm a big fan of single bevel broadheads, though for me it's purely academic because I've never hunted. I've made a few over the years but came at it from my own angle so I had to research Ashby to see who you were talking about. I made them at first because it is the easiest way to get a clean, slick edge on steel, I've been sharpening my pocket knives that way forever, so why not a broadhead? Then I got intrigued by how they tended to drill in deeper and proved more difficult to extract from my layered cardboard targets. I've ground out a few with sweeping parabolic curves that I think would be effective.
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    Last edited by Gnome on Sat Sep 12, 2015 4:54 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : I can't spell)
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Sat Sep 12, 2015 6:25 pm

    Byron ferguson was a big fan of parabolic curves.    His favorite head back in the day looks like a huge sharks tooth.  

    They definitely do turn in the target.    And the bone splitting i witnessed the other day was wholly impressive.  Im confident that if i miss forward into a deer scapula i will have no penetrstion issues, which after all is what its all about.   I hunt nearly everyday of season and have seen a lot of wounds.   I was also a medic.  I can say for sure the twisting cut is more damaging than any straight entries i have seen.    Very excited for the next couple of weeks to pass.  Ill be posting results here for your entertainment and viewing
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    Post by c sitas Sun Sep 13, 2015 11:36 am

    As an old bowhunter I can say the head is everything. Has any one done a kinetice workup  of a crossbow bolt like what you fellows are shooting. I do know one thing for absolute sure, I've see a lot more animals lost with way forward hits , than I've seen recovered. There's  not a lot there to kill if you miss most of the lung.In my 50 plus years of hunting, I've wittnessed two  partial lung hits more or less recover and were killed almost a month later. They had the holes to prove it.I'll try with all my might to wait for and get that perfect shot.My wife only used 35 lb pull and would zip clean through with the right placement. I guess it really boils down to the eye of the beholder.Some of the stuff they sell now would scare ya. Both in looks and price.
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Sun Sep 13, 2015 9:03 pm

    Agreed on all counts. To be clear the object is not to aim for the scapula with an arrow.  But ive shot enough deer to know a lot happens in the time between release and impact.  If that scapula slides back a few inches at the shot i want the best chance to break through it rather than barely penetrate it.  I also want the ribs to be null and void.   Especially if i get back out west for elk. I bave not done a workup on k e but i can say my bolts pentrate my block deeeper than my 60lb longbow arrows do
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    Post by c sitas Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:40 am

    Sounds like you have the stuff it takes. Don't sacrifice some weight for a little more distance. That would be a mistake. About how much do your bolts weigh?
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:37 pm

    I'm shooting a 475 grain bolt in total.  the broadheads weigh 200 grains.  so do my small game blunts.   they hit quite hard.  i think these bolts will be good penetraters.  they certainly were on the small game with the broadhead. 

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    i dont plan on shooting at deer more than 20 yards away initially.   if it seems quite enough that the deer arent jumping i feel comfortable out to 30 easy.   but i think that will likley have them well out of my aimed shot if the jump the string.
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:38 pm

    the head on the far right is for squirrel so disregard that on the deer discussion
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    Post by Armymedic.2 Mon Sep 14, 2015 5:27 pm

    At long last, she is finished   pics!!! Th_trim.ABA74DB4-0AFB-4A9C-858D-4F74999507ED_zpsvjzhjidq

    Blunt hitting small box stuffed with cloth on slomo

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    Post by Xamllew Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:51 am

    Vid doesn't seem to work for me
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    Post by Gnome Tue Sep 22, 2015 3:39 pm

    Me either. I've only been successful posting video on this forum that is hosted on Youtube.
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