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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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    Connecting layers of Aluminum

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    Connecting layers of Aluminum Empty Connecting layers of Aluminum

    Post by whiteraven Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:20 pm

    If I have a stack of cutout flat plates of aluminum, is there a way to
    bond they securely together? Like IIII not ---- (if that makes sense)

    I need a strong attachment that won't let the pieces separate or bend apart. Does that mean welding? Or would several long thin screws to bind the layers be better?
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    Post by cowscankill Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:47 pm

    I would sandwich epoxy between the aluminum pieces after roughening them up and clamping them for a good while. Then, I would also go back and use some bolts/machine screws/what-have-you. Granted, adding holes in the plates could become a weak point in the material in some way, I would trust a solid steel threading of some sort to prevent the epoxy from separating.

    I'm no expert and I haven't tried this, but I have layered plastics with glues before and have gotten credible results.

    I also have a massive stack of 1-2mm aluminum sheets and the idea of stacking them is rather appealing now that I consider it. I also have a bin full of scrap aluminum, so I might be able to just smelt the parts I need if I can learn to make molds for my forge...
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    Post by stoneagebowyer Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:03 pm

    A classic work on moldmaking is The Complete Handbook of Sand Casting, by C.W. Ammen. I highly recommend it. Publisher is TAB Books.
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    Post by ferdinand Fri Jun 15, 2012 1:29 am

    It al depends on what u want to do with the stack. The kind of force u apply is also verry important, do u bend the stack or a peeling effect or...
    U could google the car manufacturar Lotus. They make aluminium car chassis for sportscars wich are completely glued. In my opinion glue is stronger then welding in most ways.
    I would not be surpriced if Loctite has a glue for this.
    Dont know if u can get this one in the USA, 3M(tm) Scotchweld(tm) Epoxy.
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    Post by chaz Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:41 am

    Whiteraven,

    Of course all involves the intended use. If it is only to come up with total of a particular thick plate of aluminum, why not just buy some bar-stock aluminum of a thickness that will currently suit your needs and save your plates for another project far less complicated. Sometimes life is simple...........or as complicated as one wants to make it. Quite often I have found myself in the same situation and trying to salvage materials and find that my efforts in time and other materials to make that happen far out weigh the expence of just getting what I need to begin with. Like what is the cost of the special epoxies, or welding the plates together, or the time spent in drilling and bolting, etc,,etc.,.................on and on ? One good thing, one can choose to spend his time as he chooses. This becomes more evident as one gets closer to the end.

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    Post by Geezer Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:45 am

    "One good thing, one can choose to spend his time as he chooses. This becomes more evident as one gets closer to the end." (Chaz)

    Right-on Chaz, spoken like a proper old-geezer. At some point most craftsmen give up trying to work with salvaged garage-door springs and aluminum window-tracks, and actually buy the materials you need. And if your time is worth anything at all, getting the right stuff almost always ends up costing less and producing a better result.
    That isn't to say you can't get good results with salvaged stuff, and that you can't find salvage stuff that's perfect for your purpose, but there's a point where you need to head for the steelyard. Geezer.
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    Post by whiteraven Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:34 pm

    Here is what I am talking about. Sorry for the crude drawing, but MS Paint doesn't really allow for much.

    The top pieces are the individual parts, the bottom two are the left and right side view of how the parts will stack up.

    Connecting layers of Aluminum Trigge11

    With this layering it will allow me to file and shape the layers individually a little better than if I worked it as a solid piece, since currently I don't have any machining tools, just a Dremel and hand files.
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    Post by chaz Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:35 pm

    Whiteraven,

    A picture is worth a thousand words. Where there is a will there is a way.

    Best to you.

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    Post by chaz Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:53 pm

    Geezer,

    Thanks from one old Geezer to another !

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    Post by Basilisk120 Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:57 am

    Ok I know see what your trying to do. What I was going to suggest isn't relevant but still have a couple ideas.

    Assuming you can't get your hands on a TIG welder, I suggest using some JB weld and rivets. Could use aluminum wire, well copper wire would work if you like the two color effect. Shouldn't be too hard to with some hand tools. But I would recommend a couple of practices so you know how the rivets work in the aluminum and how much you will need to peen them.



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    Post by whiteraven Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:43 pm

    I think maybe I'll just make it out of balsa wood, then get it cast in bronze. Smile
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    Post by ferdinand Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:46 am

    I'm sorry if i sound like a idiot but what is it?
    Is it a bone from a leg? With a hip joint?
    Balsa is very easy to work with.
    Why wrap it in wire?
    I am curious!!!
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    Post by whiteraven Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:08 pm

    ferdinand wrote:I'm sorry if i sound like a idiot but what is it?
    Is it a bone from a leg? With a hip joint?
    Balsa is very easy to work with.
    Why wrap it in wire?
    I am curious!!!

    Good eye, Yes. It's a femur and knee down to the fibula and tibia of a dog's leg in bone. I ended up getting it cut out of cardboard, then I'll sculpt onto it to clean up the details in paperclay. Great stuff that will burn out during the "lost wax" method of casting.

    I don't know where the wrap in wire came from...?
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    Post by ferdinand Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:45 pm

    Sorry, cast in bronze is different from wrapping itg.
    Are u making a tiller out of it?
    A bit of conan the barbarian like stuff?
    Like it!
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    Post by whiteraven Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:52 pm

    Yup, it'll be my bows "tickler" (trigger).
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    Post by ferdinand Mon Jun 18, 2012 3:27 am

    whiteraven wrote:Yup, it'll be my bows "tickler" (trigger).

    Nice! getting ready for Halloween?
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    Post by whiteraven Mon Jun 18, 2012 3:57 pm

    Halloween, Phoenix Faery Festival, and upcoming Wild Wild West Con 2013. This crossbow will be my weapon for my Steampunk Satyr costume I am also making. SO I actually got A LOT going on... Smile
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    Post by Basilisk120 Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:46 am

    Little off topic but when is Wild Wild West Con? Other than in 2013



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    Post by whiteraven Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:11 pm

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    Post by actionbow Tue Sep 25, 2012 3:03 pm

    One way to do this is to drill a hole through all the pieces and make a steel pin that is just larger than the sandwiched layers. Then jb weld between the pieces and pound the pin to clamp the layers together. A pin every few inches. If you use a countersink bit on the outer layer you can finish the pins flush and still have a sort of head to hold the pieces together.

    I have done this for roller nuts wth wild angles that would be hard to work from a solid piece and it works well.

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