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    best way of spanning a 200+lb bow

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    stuckinthemud1
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Wed Apr 03, 2019 12:05 pm

    My bow lath is currently over 200lb draw weight and before I order the metalwork from the blacksmith, what do you consider the best way to span such a heavy bow?
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    Post by Geezer on Wed Apr 03, 2019 12:08 pm

    For a medieval crossbow At 200 lb. plus, I would suggest either a 'gafa' cocking lever (proper goatsfoot) or a belthook.  There are a number of commercially available spanning aids that should do the trick for modern bows, including cord/pulley arrangements and even a little crank/windlass that fits over the butt.  A bit of online research should give you some reasonable options.  Geezer.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Thu Apr 04, 2019 3:29 pm

    Thanks Geezer, I think I'll start off with a stirrup and double belt hook - I'll see what the smith says, maybe with a set of bodkins - if I am not enjoying spanning it, it shouldn't be too hard to upgrade from there
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    Post by Wildtech on Fri Apr 05, 2019 5:57 am

    I used a belt hook for a little and found it cumbersome, you naturally pull away from the stock so hooking onto the nut was difficult.  I preferred to just manually load them - but expect to have lower strain until you build some strength up.

    I've now made several Goats foot levers and modified my Medieval Bows to use them - they are so easy to load - even for my 105KG (231 lb) Crossbow.

    If you have access to a metal press and a welder you can make a Goats foot lever easily.  I have a CAD drawing if it helps, just adjust based on the draw distance required.

    best way of spanning a 200+lb bow Goats_10
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:28 pm

    Yes please, a CAD drawing would be really useful
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    Post by Wildtech on Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:56 am

    HI

    Hope this works

    Else just PM me and I'll send via email

    You need to check the distance of the  string hook to the pins it rests on that it reaches when first attached and that the hook reaches behind the Nut when fully pulled back.  Adjust the hook length and or the curve of the levers

    regards

    Light Goats Foot.dxf
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    Post by Geezer on Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:07 pm

    Geezer here: a minor note of caution on goatsfood (gafa) levers.  The hooks that grasp the string constitute the major wear-point.  They tend to push the string-serving apart, if not outright cut the string.  You want those hooks to be very broad and smooth where they contact your string... and you still may need a bit of leather on the serving for protection.  Still the gafa is by far the best cocking machine I know for a moderate weight bow.  For REALLY strong bows, you need a windlass or cranequin.
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    Post by Geezer on Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:08 pm

    make that 'goatsfoot' not goatsfood.  I can't type straight.  Geezer.
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    Post by Dennis Greenaway on Sat Apr 20, 2019 4:12 pm

    How do you open dxf  file?
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    Post by Wildtech on Sat Apr 20, 2019 8:09 pm

    Its a CAD file 

    You can use something like FreeCad to open and print .

    Or if you want I'll convert to a JPG or PDF if that helps

    regards
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    Post by msalazar2310 on Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:45 pm

    I made a goats foot following Payne's drawing and the cocking is still very difficult and the string keeps on coming up and goes over the nut, ¿what shall I do?. I do not know how strong is the bow, it may be on the 300lb range
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    Post by Geezer on Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:51 pm

    Your goatsfoot proportions may be a little off, but in my experience, most gafas draw the string ABOVE the roller.  But if you go ahead and draw it back to the limits of your lever and then start it back forward, the string should drop right into place as it goes by.  If it doesn't, then your proportions/pin location may be a bit off.  Geezer.
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    Post by msalazar2310 on Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:34 pm

    Thank tou Geezer, I will keep on trying
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    Post by Wildtech on Tue Apr 23, 2019 3:11 am

    best way of spanning a 200+lb bow Goatsf10
    This might explain the correct dimensions for you.  
    I took a picture and copied it and found it too short for my stock (Fiberglass Prods draw back 8 inches)  - I then adjusted so the Start and End positions were correct for loading.
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    Post by msalazar2310 on Tue Apr 23, 2019 7:55 am

    I thank you very much, I will have to modify the goats foot as you show in the picture
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 on Fri May 31, 2019 3:31 am

    Bit of an oops moment, I tillered the lath to 11 inches of bend and cut down the draw weight (on purpose) to about 120lb.  I put it in the test rig and it really hit the bolt with a wallop, then I put it on the tiller, oops, the actual draw length is 8.25"!!  Draw weight of the lath mounted in the tiller is 70lb....part of me is really pleased, part of me is a little bit gutted, on the one hand its a manageable draw weight in an un-stressed lath which will be reliable and shoot-able all day long, but on the other hand, that 120lb kick is so intoxicating, even if I can only span it a couple of times without needing a breather.

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