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    Wippe lever construction and other simple spanning devices.

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    • Post n°1

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    Post by dmanx500 Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:48 pm

    So after altering my crossbow to fit a 175lb prod, I find I am unable to span it. I have decided that a wippe lever or a rope spanning device would help. Are there any plans or mathematical calculations for making a wippe lever for a 16" draw? Barring that any advice before I take the leap?
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    Post by Bs1110101 Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:46 pm

    16 inches seems like quite a lot, and that at 175lb seems quite powerful. A wippe for that dray length might be slightly on the large side, but i don't see why it wouldn't work. All you need to work out what dimensions to make it to are on the wiki. I'd say go for a wippe rather then a rope cocker as it's easier, faster, and less dumb looking in my opinion at least. Pictures of the bow this is for would be nice as well. 
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    • Post n°3

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    Post by OrienM Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:35 am

    The Crossbow Wiki has good instructions for building a wippe. Personally, after building one of each to try I ended up much preferring a rope cocker...easier to build, and far easier to carry (fits conveniently in a pocket! Very Happy). A wippe is large and bulky, IMHO a real hassle to carry and use in the field.

    My bow has a steel cross-pin installed behind the nut to anchor the rope to; it's a fairly "traditional"-looking arrangement and works great. A simple notch in the butt end of the tiller works well, too.
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    Post by c sitas Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:46 am

    You know, just off the top of my mind,16" sounds like an awful lot of draw for steel. I don't believe I have ever heard of this. If it'll work and stay together, great. I would certainly want a sheath on it though.I make super long draws, but not with steel.
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    • Post n°5

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    Post by dmanx500 Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:31 pm

    The crossbow is the same crossbow in my "medieval style crossbow using scavenged materials" thread on this board. The alterations include a reinforced nut and a completely redone fronted end to fit a jaguar 175# fiberglass prod. A this point
    I am just putting to sticks together with multiple holes for adjustment and seeing what happens.

    I will not be able to post new pictures until I have a WiFi connection which might take a few days, this is why I referenced the other thread.

    I was going to make a rope-cocker but my hardware store did not have small enough pulleys. Is buying one and waiting worth it? I will attempt to built a wippe anyway to pass the time.
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    Post by c sitas Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:50 pm

    For what it's worth,I don't know where you live, wally world has these in the "Allen : brand for a crisp 10 spot.Ready to go . Myself I'd rather have an all metal roller hook. I v'e heard of the plastic types  were breaking,and that's not cool when your under almost full draw. Result, dry fire.
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    Post by dmanx500 Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:25 pm

    Well... I made a massive, crude adjustable wippe out of 2x4s. I reniforced the nut and the bridle mounts when I upped the pondage... Shoulda reinforced the crossbow. Goodbye impatiently built cheapo crossbow I barely knew ya Sad
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    Post by c sitas Sun Oct 11, 2015 5:32 pm

    I just want to mention here that a whippie works very well but----, it loads the stock or tiller quite a bit. If you are near the skinny side ,be careful.
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    • Post n°9

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    Post by Geezer Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:55 am

    Back in the old days I used to make wippes occasionally.  I eventually worked out a design that hooked onto the prod at the base, rather than the stock, in hopes of reducing the stresses on the prod mounting, but my wippes were still large and clunky looking as well as inconvenient to use.  Nowadays I encourage my customers to either opt for a belt-hook or 'gafa-goatsfoot' lever.  They're much more efficient and elegant, but work best with skinny, parallel stocks.  The fat German stocks are pretty much a no-go.  There were period bows that used cord and pulley as well.  Take a look at Payne-Gallwey's book for that.  Geezer.
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    Post by mazawakhan Sat Nov 28, 2015 9:53 pm

    Wippe lever construction and other simple spanning devices. Image_zpsnd7868ma
    Here is what I made last year. Its two pieces of Red Oak from Home Depot. There is a little area in the wood section that has a bunch of small hobby size pieces of wood. I added all the adjustment holes down the stock because I had no idea which angle would work the best. It spanned my 190 lb prod with ease. Unfortunately the string was ground onto the top of the crossbow and created furrows. I am making a new crossbow with with a reinforced table. Hope this helps a bit
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    Post by c sitas Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:18 am

    Mazawakhan; Sounds like maybe the bow is mounted to deep on the stock. I've read where Geezer says the string should just "kiss" the stock. I use your same design, exactly.
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    • Post n°12

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    Post by mazawakhan Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:05 pm

    c sitas wrote:Mazawakhan; Sounds like maybe the bow is mounted to deep on the stock. I've read where Geezer says the string should just "kiss" the stock. I use your same design, exactly.


    I think the string position was fine. What was happening was the wippe was grinding the string into the table when I would span the bow. I plan to reinforce the table on my Mk II with some delrin sheeting that I scored!
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    • Post n°13

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    Post by Onager Lovac Mon Nov 30, 2015 6:05 pm

    Hello Mazawakhan and welcome to the forum, from what i see in the picture, the adjustment holes in your wippe are to hi, by which i mean far away from the hook, even the lowest one you are using in the picture, having the adjustment holes closer to the hook will give a higher mechanical advantage and reduce the friction between the string and the stock of the crossbow, in exchange for a shorter draw lenght and more movement when spawning the bow.
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