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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Troubleshooting
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Oct 01, 2022 3:08 pm

» Qin/Han lock drawings
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» stirrup dimensions?
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» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
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» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
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» Low Draw Weight Build
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» Trigger testing Rig/Jig?
by ora8i Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:13 pm

» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
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» Bad Antler
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Jun 28, 2022 8:09 am

» best type of horn to use..
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 24, 2022 6:13 am

» Han Dynasty Chinese Crossbow
by hullutiedemies Fri Jun 17, 2022 1:00 pm

» Drawing of Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jun 03, 2022 3:01 am

» "How To Make Everything": Early Crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Jun 02, 2022 3:41 am

» Black inlay
by stuckinthemud1 Fri May 13, 2022 3:18 pm

» Roller nut details
by drawknife Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:44 pm

» 330#/7" wood bow
by Anatine Duo Tue Mar 29, 2022 11:08 am

» starting a 1400's replica
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Feb 24, 2022 1:26 pm

» 18th century German crossbow reproduction
by Fangbows Sun Feb 20, 2022 7:15 am

» replacement for baleen?
by tghsmith Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:30 am

» Josef alm in English
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Jan 14, 2022 3:07 pm

» Medieval crossbow finished
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:05 pm

» Trigger mechanisms
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jan 03, 2022 10:23 am

» Finish wooden stock
by stuckinthemud1 Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:06 am

» finish prod binding
by kenh Tue Nov 30, 2021 5:26 am

» What bolts do you use?
by hullutiedemies Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:43 am


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    17th century stonebow school project

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    phuphuphnik
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    Post by phuphuphnik Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:26 pm

    I'm working with my 2 7th grade students making 3 stonebows based on the design in Gallway's book.
    I'm doing the big work, and they are doing the whitework  and smithing, as well as the stocks.
    Using red oak for the stocks, 1018 for the hardware and 1075 for the prods. I'm aiming for 30-50# on the bows at 12 inch draw.
    Cutting the latch out.
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2011

    Making the ticklers
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2012

    Top: my lever, middle the prototype, lower one of theirs; unfinished.
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2013

    The prototype so far
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2014
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:37 am

    Very good idea and beautiful work. When you'll put the bow be careful to give a bit of angle  to the stock to be sure the shooting trajectory wont hit the stock, or cant a bit the bow tips upward. You look to have nice working tool !
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 11:16 am

    Be very careful about the the bow clamp system. This may help.

    17th century stonebow school project Img_2612
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:34 pm

    This picture show you what Gallwey mean "upward slant" in the stock 
    17th century stonebow school project A1045-10
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:38 pm

    That way you'll be sure the ball won't hit the stock 
    17th century stonebow school project Image11
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:40 pm

    Hope I have been clear! please inform us of your work with pictures.
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:43 pm

    Last thing , I would suggest to do a stronger bow around 100# (can be span by hand also)
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    Post by phuphuphnik Fri Dec 06, 2013 4:24 pm

    Thanks for the replies!
    Jeep: I'd like to keep the power on the low side. The kids are 12, and while I trust them they have little experience with things that shoot. They made hickory bows, but as we know that is a different animal than a crossbow.
    Mine, however can be stronger muahahaha.

    As for the stock, I have an offset on it, that I hope is deep enough. It is certainly enough for the sling to clear. It is 2 pieces one 1.5" the other .5" with an alternating grain to give some more strength. I'm not fond of using red oak, but I have a very limited budget.

    As for the prods, I was going to temper them at 700F It is 1075 1/8" thick 3/4" wide and 28" long.
    I'll play around with prods on the prototype before they make theirs, and find a good fit.
    cheers!
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    Post by phuphuphnik Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:22 pm

    I should add that I'm looking to use 1/2" clay balls
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    Post by kenh Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:27 pm

    But think how much fun paintballs would be!
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 07, 2013 6:28 pm

    Evil grin
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    Post by phuphuphnik Thu Dec 12, 2013 5:00 am

    ugh, I cannot heat the whole prod at the same time, which will make tempering a little...impossible. I'm therefore making a tempering forge from an old gas grill. I'll put in a different burner too so it'll do double duty as a regular forge too. It came with a full tank too.
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    Post by septua Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:33 am

    Some links below may have been presented here before however they contain some pictures of bullet/stone bows. Be patient scrolling down and click each image to get nice detail.
         
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about36.html
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about153.html
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about126.html
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about112.html
     
    Tom


    Last edited by septua on Wed Jul 25, 2018 8:39 pm; edited 3 times in total (Reason for editing : Removed Duplicate)
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    Post by jeep Thu Dec 12, 2013 11:35 am

    The skill, technical and artistic level of those guy are just unbelievable! Respect man! respect...
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    Post by phuphuphnik Thu Dec 12, 2013 11:36 pm

    wow. The learning curve just got steeper...
    Thanks for the links!
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 14, 2013 3:21 am

    Here is the stock so far. The prod is not hardened, and not spanned. Rather I used a long string for measurements. I'll be making the irons as soon as I fix my forge. $&*@ blower broke.
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2015
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    Post by banuvatt Tue Nov 12, 2019 5:19 pm

    I know this post is old, but I asked Tod from Tod's Workshop and he said that you can't cant the bow back like a normal crossbow. You have to make it straight but have the bow curved meaning that the bow has a bend in it from side to side. This is so it can shoot straight and make clearance for the double string also the spherical projectile. I tried making a stonebow and it's dangerous if you just put a cant in it. It will most of the time hit the front of stock but sometimes you have the freak accident. Of it ricocheting and shooting backwards. I found this video of this guy he made a medieval stone bow and his bow had a bend in the middle of it. So that the tips did not meet with the center they went off center https://youtu.be/Khd09zyW3V8
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    Post by banuvatt Tue Nov 12, 2019 5:46 pm

    17th century stonebow school project 3994_6
    I think this puts it in better perspective what I was talking about.

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