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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» Ancient Crossbow Reproduction 120lb@28"
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Oct 06, 2021 12:41 pm

» Ball shooting Crossbows worth the bother
by c sitas Sat Sep 25, 2021 7:34 pm

» Chu Ko Nu - repeating chinese crossbow
by c sitas Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:30 am

» Skew of tiller
by drawknife Fri Aug 27, 2021 9:18 am

» tiller desgin
by crusader Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:37 am

» Want to build modern target crossbow
by ora8i Fri Aug 13, 2021 1:20 pm

» starting a 1400's replica
by tghsmith Wed Aug 11, 2021 10:25 am

» New Medieval just about finished
by Dark Factor Mon Aug 02, 2021 6:41 am

» How do I tune this
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jul 25, 2021 3:14 am

» Plans and materials for my first build
by c sitas Sat Jul 03, 2021 7:39 am

» Bolt rest
by stuckinthemud1 Mon Jun 14, 2021 3:24 pm

» Collotiere a Charavines crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:25 pm

» ash lath and pin-lock crossbow
by stuckinthemud1 Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:56 am

» Late medieval tournament distances?
by stuckinthemud1 Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:20 am

» Cutting delrin straight by hand?
by kenh Thu Apr 01, 2021 8:24 pm

» Other forums like this one?
by stuckinthemud1 Tue Mar 30, 2021 9:23 am

» new find in china, terra cotta warrior site
by tghsmith Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:42 am

» Crossbow Books
by Andy. Sun Mar 14, 2021 3:46 pm

» 95lb ancient crossbow shot faster than 960lb medieval
by Fangbows Fri Mar 12, 2021 11:36 pm

» best type of horn to use..
by kenh Tue Mar 09, 2021 3:16 pm

» re-introduction
by tghsmith Sun Mar 07, 2021 3:15 pm

» 4 fletch question
by 8fingers Fri Feb 05, 2021 3:14 am

» fix bolts
by MPDVM Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:40 pm

» Reverse draw compound bow build
by c sitas Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:20 pm

» New Build for 2020
by Gnome Wed Jan 27, 2021 6:19 am


5 posters

    17th century stonebow school project

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    phuphuphnik
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    Post by phuphuphnik Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:26 pm

    I'm working with my 2 7th grade students making 3 stonebows based on the design in Gallway's book.
    I'm doing the big work, and they are doing the whitework  and smithing, as well as the stocks.
    Using red oak for the stocks, 1018 for the hardware and 1075 for the prods. I'm aiming for 30-50# on the bows at 12 inch draw.
    Cutting the latch out.
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2011

    Making the ticklers
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2012

    Top: my lever, middle the prototype, lower one of theirs; unfinished.
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2013

    The prototype so far
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2014
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:37 am

    Very good idea and beautiful work. When you'll put the bow be careful to give a bit of angle  to the stock to be sure the shooting trajectory wont hit the stock, or cant a bit the bow tips upward. You look to have nice working tool !
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 11:16 am

    Be very careful about the the bow clamp system. This may help.

    17th century stonebow school project Img_2612
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:34 pm

    This picture show you what Gallwey mean "upward slant" in the stock 
    17th century stonebow school project A1045-10
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:38 pm

    That way you'll be sure the ball won't hit the stock 
    17th century stonebow school project Image11
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:40 pm

    Hope I have been clear! please inform us of your work with pictures.
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    Post by jeep Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:43 pm

    Last thing , I would suggest to do a stronger bow around 100# (can be span by hand also)
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    Post by phuphuphnik Fri Dec 06, 2013 4:24 pm

    Thanks for the replies!
    Jeep: I'd like to keep the power on the low side. The kids are 12, and while I trust them they have little experience with things that shoot. They made hickory bows, but as we know that is a different animal than a crossbow.
    Mine, however can be stronger muahahaha.

    As for the stock, I have an offset on it, that I hope is deep enough. It is certainly enough for the sling to clear. It is 2 pieces one 1.5" the other .5" with an alternating grain to give some more strength. I'm not fond of using red oak, but I have a very limited budget.

    As for the prods, I was going to temper them at 700F It is 1075 1/8" thick 3/4" wide and 28" long.
    I'll play around with prods on the prototype before they make theirs, and find a good fit.
    cheers!
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    Post by phuphuphnik Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:22 pm

    I should add that I'm looking to use 1/2" clay balls
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    Post by kenh Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:27 pm

    But think how much fun paintballs would be!
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 07, 2013 6:28 pm

    Evil grin
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    Post by phuphuphnik Thu Dec 12, 2013 5:00 am

    ugh, I cannot heat the whole prod at the same time, which will make tempering a little...impossible. I'm therefore making a tempering forge from an old gas grill. I'll put in a different burner too so it'll do double duty as a regular forge too. It came with a full tank too.
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    Post by septua Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:33 am

    Some links below may have been presented here before however they contain some pictures of bullet/stone bows. Be patient scrolling down and click each image to get nice detail.
         
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about36.html
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about153.html
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about126.html
    http://armborst.forum24.se/armborst-about112.html
     
    Tom


    Last edited by septua on Wed Jul 25, 2018 8:39 pm; edited 3 times in total (Reason for editing : Removed Duplicate)
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    Post by jeep Thu Dec 12, 2013 11:35 am

    The skill, technical and artistic level of those guy are just unbelievable! Respect man! respect...
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    Post by phuphuphnik Thu Dec 12, 2013 11:36 pm

    wow. The learning curve just got steeper...
    Thanks for the links!
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    Post by phuphuphnik Sat Dec 14, 2013 3:21 am

    Here is the stock so far. The prod is not hardened, and not spanned. Rather I used a long string for measurements. I'll be making the irons as soon as I fix my forge. $&*@ blower broke.
    17th century stonebow school project Img_2015
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    Post by banuvatt Tue Nov 12, 2019 5:19 pm

    I know this post is old, but I asked Tod from Tod's Workshop and he said that you can't cant the bow back like a normal crossbow. You have to make it straight but have the bow curved meaning that the bow has a bend in it from side to side. This is so it can shoot straight and make clearance for the double string also the spherical projectile. I tried making a stonebow and it's dangerous if you just put a cant in it. It will most of the time hit the front of stock but sometimes you have the freak accident. Of it ricocheting and shooting backwards. I found this video of this guy he made a medieval stone bow and his bow had a bend in the middle of it. So that the tips did not meet with the center they went off center https://youtu.be/Khd09zyW3V8
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    Post by banuvatt Tue Nov 12, 2019 5:46 pm

    17th century stonebow school project 3994_6
    I think this puts it in better perspective what I was talking about.

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