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Crossbows - Everything about Building, Modding, and Using your Crossbow Gear

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» 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed
by stuckinthemud1 Fri Nov 24, 2023 3:50 pm

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» [solved]Skane/Lillohus crossbow thread
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» Wood Prods
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» Fiberglass H-bows
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» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
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» need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble
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    very very begining of a medeival crossbow

    edstuff
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    • Post n°1

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    Post by edstuff Sun Dec 21, 2014 5:58 pm

    First topic message reminder :

    very very begining of a medeival crossbow - Page 3 21bkgx
    very very begining of a medeival crossbow - Page 3 2q32ej9

    This is the start of the nut. I still need to cut in a string groove and trim down the piece that will hold the trigger.  The trigger will be formed from 3/8 Ø round bar.  I'll probably purchase the prod somewhere.  Maybe a 120# or lower if I can find it since this will not have a safety.  Be gentle guys it's my first project.
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    Post by Geezer Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:32 am

    Ohhh, it's steel.  Then you were right to make the roller as narrow as practicable.  But the sucker should last forever.  Geezer.
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    Post by edstuff Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:56 am

    I have a delrin that I got from phuphunik but I have 2 or 3 from steel to play with. Mild steel is somewhat readily available to me. I wish I could do the prod from steel but will more than likely use a chinese 150, 120 or maybe even a lil 80#er.
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    • Post n°53

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    Post by Geezer Mon Sep 28, 2015 11:41 am

    Secretly, I've always wished I had the tools and patience to do my own rolled-end prod like the 15th century ones, or better yet a horn-sinew composite, but at my age, that's just not gonna happen.  You can cut a steel prod from leaf-spring, if you're careful not to overheat the cut, but in fact, that won't get a fully authentic medieval steel prod.  Modern steel prods are generally uniform in thickness and narrow to about 1/2 at the ends.  Medieval steel prods tapered only moderately toward the ends, perhaps by a quarter, but they varied in thickness.  There are a couple of makers in Europe who can do this for you, but it's mostly hand work and the prices are very high.
    Chinese bows are pretty interesting, very different from medieval European bows, with a very clever bronze lock.  I've made a few pistol bows more or less based on Chinese Han bows.  One day I'll do the full deal, but that will require a nice deep-recurve prod.  Hopes and dreams.  Geezers.
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    • Post n°54

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    Post by Gnome Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:28 am

    Steel, huh? My mistake. In that case, yeah, the narrowness makes sense. When the teeth are rounded and polished it should work great with a 150 or 120 pound prod, but I think the steel nut would be too heavy to work well with the little 80 pounders.
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    Post by edstuff Fri Dec 04, 2015 10:07 am

    very very begining of a medeival crossbow - Page 3 100_3811
    very very begining of a medeival crossbow - Page 3 100_3812
    Well roller nut is complete FINALLY. I'm not on the same level as you guys but I do believe this is going to be pretty cool when I'm eventually finished. And I'm thinking a 120 prod will be what I want to go with
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    • Post n°56

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    Post by phuphuphnik Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:04 pm

    Hey, that is looking nice. For the arrow groove, I mark the center line then use a 1/4" chisel to get things started. Once
    I have a little trough that is straight I turn to a dowel with 80 grit wrapped around it. Goes medium quick and is precise.
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    Post by c sitas Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:05 am

    Edstuff; Don't forget to really round out the area of the roller the catches the string. I use croackus cloth and polish the tar out it. I t doesn't take munch of an edge to brake a serving and start troubles.
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    Post by edstuff Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:28 am

    I was actually fearful of this. I used a rat tail a little bit but believe I should hit it some more. It's all a learning experience
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    Post by c sitas Wed Dec 09, 2015 3:24 pm

    Ed; I'll tell you what works the best to start with is the smallest chain saw file. It's small ,round, and a nice fine cut. Get the shape you want, then go after it with the croakus cloath. It'll polish out smoothe as a babies butt .If the top where the hooks work on the string are the least bit rough, it'll eat servings for breakfast.
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