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» Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed
by stuckinthemud1 Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:23 am


5 posters

    Yew Composite prod:help needed

    Edward donald
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    • Post n°1

    Yew Composite prod:help needed - Page 5 Empty Yew Composite prod:help needed

    Post by Edward donald Fri Jul 26, 2019 12:03 pm

    First topic message reminder :

    Hi there

    I am new to posting in this forum but have used it in previous builds. I am looking to build crossbow prod useing  Yew and sinew only. Horn seems too time consuming. 

    I would like to follow a build I have seen by the user OrienM:

    https://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com/t1655-yew-and-sinew-prod-help-needed

    However i would like the draw weight to be at least 250lbs. I know this is a lot to ask without useing horn but is anyone able to give me a guess as to the dimensions for what that might be before tillering.

    On a side note the design of the crossbow is very unique as it allows the crossbow to cocked in under 3 seconds with a draw weight of 400lbs and utilises this speed of draw with a magazine of bolts. The materials used were available to anyone living in the period of when crossbows were still used on the battlefield and so from a historic sense this build is very interesting. The design is relatively compact and very easy to use with minimal effort in the loading process. 

    I'd very much appretiate any advice/help, and would be happy to reveal the design in a PM

    Regards

    Ed
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    • Post n°101

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    Post by Geezer Wed Aug 07, 2019 12:19 pm

    There are any number of possible devices that can work, as long as they bend the prod evenly, and don't do any surface damage.  I have no doubt you can think of better solutions than mine.  In the middle ages, they had a table with pegs to hold the crossbow steady and a huge built-in screw to draw the prod back via clamps. I've seen it called a Ziebank (pulling bench)
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    banuvatt
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    • Post n°102

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    Post by banuvatt Wed Aug 07, 2019 1:29 pm

    I've tried putting two blocks on a table then in between two the blocks put a clamp. You can try putting a towel or a piece of leather over the blocks if you're worried about damaging the prod. Put the prod on the two blocks and put the clamp on the middle of the prod. Tighten the clamp until you can slide the bow string over the nocks.
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    Post by Edward donald Wed Aug 07, 2019 4:42 pm

    that sounds simple. yeah i'll try that. i'll cover the prod with leather or something
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    • Post n°104

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    Post by Edward donald Fri Aug 16, 2019 4:50 am

    Hi there

    I have been away for a week. the first layer of sinew has had 14 days drying. it is now rock hard. Is it too hard to add the second layer of sinew?

    ed
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    stuckinthemud1
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    • Post n°105

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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:33 am

    As I understand it, the new glue wets the first layer anyway, so, you can put the second layer on fairly soon after the first, make sure you wrap the bow good and tight to stop the second layer soaking off the first one. I use bike inner tube strips over thin fabric
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    OrienM
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    • Post n°106

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    Post by OrienM Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:39 am

    Make sure the sinew is very clean (wipe with acetone), size the back with thinned glue again, and let it dry before adding the next layer. Should be fine, lots of makers seem to do layer-by-layer application of sinew. I prefer one thick layer, but I live in a very dry climate, too.
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    • Post n°107

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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Fri Aug 16, 2019 7:02 am

    Nah, I live in a really wet climate, rains 1 day in 3, average humidity is never below 70% and I tend to apply sinew in 1 thick layer, partly because I am lazy, partly because the new layer re-activates the glue in the previous layer(s), so there's no real difference as far as the end result is concerned. Do your glue-up then go spend a few months building the stock, bolts, spanning bench, laying up the next lath....
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    • Post n°108

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    Post by OrienM Fri Aug 16, 2019 4:46 pm

    My "technical" reason for applying it all at once is to keep the layers from stressing each other as the backing dries, I figure shrinkage over a dry layer reduces the tension in that layer to some extent, and I want high tension. I also once had a backing done layer-by-layer de-laminate, due to hand oils on an inner surface.

    The primary reason I do it is just that it's quicker that way Smile
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    • Post n°109

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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 17, 2019 5:40 am

    So, do you bend reflex into your prods as they cure?
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    • Post n°110

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    Post by OrienM Sat Aug 17, 2019 7:53 am

    stuckinthemud1 wrote:So, do you bend reflex into your prods as they cure?
     
    No, the wooden cores are too stiff for the sinew to pull into reflex. I just want to get the most 'snap' out of the backing, and keep the fibers taut since the limbs aren't moving very far. I also want to keep the prod deflexed so I can string it later! Archery bows, being longer and more flexible, will usually reflex themselves by quite a bit.
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    Post by stuckinthemud1 Sat Aug 17, 2019 12:10 pm

    That's ok then, I couldn't reflex mine either, I was worried I might have missed a trick!
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