With the utmost respect sir I think you are reading far too much into what is being discussed here. Slow down, adjust your trim a bit, and try not to be such a techno-weeny by fighting with the joystick.
Despite the bold type suggestion that you might not be wrong, the fact of the matter is that you are sir.
If you will take the time to plot the side elevation (perspective) of your crossbow, on a piece of graph paper, or better yet, as I do with my computer drawing aids, your prod and total string movement will become clear and you will discover that the resulting V point in the middle of the string always follows the line of load and thus remains straight in line with the prod tips throughout the full range of travel. In fact Alchem's drawing is already laid out in this fashion and is thus most convenient for demonstrating this.
Unless the center of the prod tips, and thus the string loops. are exactly in line with the deck at rest and at full draw, there will be some change of alignment as the string moves in line with the force. Alchem has designed their prod to have these tips as high as can be achieved from the stock material they cut their prods from. This is done to minimize the frictional losses that result from too much deviation from center. I have already told you that the string should only require the pinky finger to lift it barely from the deck. Any more than this is giving away energy!
My deck to gap distance is five eights of an inch to give this area more strength and no more. And no, this doesn't mean that the string will remain at five eights from the deck at all points.
Now take some strong non-stretch thread, wire, fishing line, etc., etc., and make yourself a bastard string. This does not have to be as thick and as strong as the shooting string because you will (must) not be pulling back so far as to load it with too much weight. This bastard string should have generous (long) loops on either end and be just long enough to go over the prod ends (pins) with little effort. Put this on the strung prod and then with your foot holding it down firmly on to a wooden or carpeted floor, pull up enough that you, or better yet an assistant. can remove one loop of the real string off its pin. To re-string the prod, place one loop of the real string on one end and and then one loop of the bastard string on top of this one. Twist the real string a couple of turns to shorten it a bit and then with the other loop of the bastard string on the remaining pin, pull up enough so that the real string loop can be passed through this longer loop and onto this pin. Relax the pull carefully and you will find that pressure will force real string loops into place and that a tug on the bastard string will set it free, and you're ready to go. IF YOU DO USE AN ASSISTANT TO HELP YOU, MAKE SURE THAT THEY KEEP THEIR FINGERS AND FACE OUT OF HARMS WAY. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! And with three and one half inches of brace height you will find that yes, this will slightly change the point where the string, hopefully, touches the deck.
Ground control out and now over to ATC.
Last edited by Pavise on Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:55 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Typo)